Storage Stairs for the Playhouse Loft Bed

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 09/08/2010 - 07:11
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Stairs for the playhouse loft bed. Featuring lift top storage, behaving much like a large hidden toybox. Give your child easy safe access to their bed!

Special thanks to Kimberly for sharing her

You have our community project request forum to thank for today's plan.

Because I certainly didn't believe I had the skills to develop a plan like this.  But you believe in me.  So I try, and what do you know?  We got a playhouse loft bed with stairs.

There are unlimited number of ways to approach building stairs with storage.  And I thought of all the options.  And this one seemed to make sense.  Because there is a window on the other side of the bed, this side would most likely be in a corner, removing all access from the stairs side of the bed.  So drawers could be done, but there would be a huge amount of wasted space in the very back.  We'll do a different type of design for stairs on a different bunk bed where we use drawers.

I personally love the idea of lift top stairs because they are inexpensive to do - just three sets of hinges is all you need for hardware - and they take advantage of all the space in the stairs.  You could stash suitcases, costumes, stuffed animals, sleeping bags, extra bedding - what couldn't you stash in those stairs?  And the lower stairs could be a toy box that your child uses regularly.

Dimensions
The stairs are going to add about 2 feet to the overall width of the bed. Same height.

Preparation

Shopping List

In addition to what you purchased for the playhouse loft bed without the stairs, you will need:

Another sheet of 3/4″ MDF or Plywood or Particle Board
4 feet of 1×10 Boards
6 – 1×3 Boards
6 – 1×2 Boards
2 – 1×4 Board, 10 feet long
1 – 1×3 Board, 10 feet long (you can use a 1×4 here if you can’t find a 1×3)
3 – Sets of Hinges

Cut List

Because of the complexity of this plans and since it is a modification of a previous plan, cut list will go with each step.

General Instructions

Well, you already got half the story in yesterday’s post of the Easy Playhouse Loft Bed. Go through and read that post. You will need to build the front and the side wall without the ladder. The cut list will change, as some of those pieces will change for the modifications. So update the cut list - the one shown below is ONLY for the back wall and the stair wall and the stairs.

Instructions

Step 1

The top platform is 18″ (bench height) below the mattress slats, so your little one (and probably you too) will have somewhere to stand and climb on to the mattress from. The stairs are 10″ rises – a full 3″ greater than what they should be for regular stairs, but I did quite a bit of research on these types of bed stairs, and concluded that what you buy is built to these same standards. And a big improvement over a ladder for little ones.

Step 2

Build the Front and Side Wall

Follow the directions in the ladder Playhouse Loft Bed plans to build the front wall and the wall without the ladder. ONLY BUILD ONE FRONT RAILING. Do not cut all the boards shown in the cut list, as the cut list changes with the addition of the ladder.

2 – 1×4 @103 1/2″ (Top and Bottom Trim)
3 – 1×3 @ 11 1/2″ (Rails for Back Legs)
20 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Rails)

Instead of building two of the front rails, build only one front rail, and the back rail as shown above. The purple boards are 1x3s, blue are 1x4s and white are 1x2s. Leave a 3″ gap between the boards. Mark the joints on the top and bottom trim and drill pocket holes on both ends of all the rails. Attach with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 3

3 – 1×3 @ 68 1/2″

Attach the back legs to the railing as shown above. Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Adjust for square.

Step 4

1 – 1×3 @ 103 1/2″ (Bottom Support)

If you can’t find a 1×3 103 1/2″ long, go ahead and use a 1×4. Check for square and attach to the bottom of the legs, as shown above. Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

2 – 1×4 @ 37 1/2″
8 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″

Outside Stair Wall Railing

Build your railing with pocket hole screws as you did all the other railings. Space railing as shown in the diagram directly above.

Step 7

2 – 1×3 @ 68 1/2″ (Legs)

Outside Stair Wall Legs

Attach the legs to the sides of the stair wall. At this step, it is very important that you leave 3/4″ on the inside of the leg and 1″ on the outside of the leg as opposed to centering the leg on the plywood and railing.

Step 8

2 – 1×3 @ 37 1/2″ (Trim Boards)

Outside Wall Exterior Trim

On the outside side of the outside wall (the side you left 1″ of space) attach with 1 1/4″ nails or screws the trim pieces as shown above.

Step 9

2 – 1×3 @ 68 1/2″ (Legs)

Front Legs for the Outside Wall

Attach two more legs to the front leg of the outside wall as shown above. Keep all outside edges flush and use 2″ finish nails and glue.

And this finishes the outside wall! Just one more wall and the stairs to go! Click on page 3 below to see the next wall.

Step 10

5 – 1×3 @ 11 1/2″ (Rails)
2 – 1×4 @ 21 3/4″ (Top and Bottom Trim)

Inside Stair Wall Railing

As you have built the other railings, mark out the rail joints on the trim boards. Then drill two pocket holes in both ends of the rails. Attach to the trim boards with 1 1/4″ screws and wood glue.

Step 11

2 – 1×3 @ 68 1/2″ (Legs)
1 – 1×2 @ 66 1/2″ ( Interior Railing Support)

Putting the Interior Wall Together

As you did with the other walls, attach the railing and the plywood panel to the legs with either pocket hole screws from the plywood and railing into the legs or with 2″ screws (predrilled) from the exterior of the legs into the plywood panel. Leave 3/4″ on the legs on the inside (where the stairs go) and 1″ on the playhouse side (shown above. Attach the stair support to the railing with 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Attach to the plywood all the way down.

Step 12

1 – 1×3 @ 15 3/4″

Inside Stair Trim

Attach the inside stair trim to the top edge of the inside of the wall (where the mattress goes) with 1 1/4″ screws or nails and glue.

Step 13

1 – 1×3 @ 37 1/2″ (Trim)

Trim on Stair Side

Flip the wall over and add the final piece of trim, as shown above. Overlap the trim on the railing by 1″ to secure the railing in place. You may wish to add one additional 1×2 to the inside top exposed edge of the plywood (the 1×2 would be 15 3/4″ long). This completes the inside stair wall. See next page for details on assembly and constructing the stairs.

Step 14

Assembly

With the five walls built, assemble the bed by attaching the three short walls to the back wall. Use 2″ screws and glue, screwing together the leg pieces. Then attach the front wall to the side walls. The remaining end wall will feel flimsy at this stage – not to worry, the step will “beef” it up. You can also attach your cleats and slats as directed in the playhouse loft bed plans with ladder.

Step 15

1- 1×3 @ 21″ (Top Stair Trim)

Stair Back Trim

Now we begin to build the stairs. Use glue and 1 1/4″ screws or nails to fasten the back trim piece inside the stairs, with 29″ below the piece. This is just a trim piece.

Step 16

4 – 1×2 @ 14 1/4″ (Top Stair Cleats)

Top Stair Cleats

Now measure up 29″ from the tops and bottoms of the stairs and glue and screw the cleats in place. Use a level to make sure the cleats are level. The top of the cleat sits at 29 1/4″. Do this on both sides. Also add the bottom cleats.

Step 17

3/4″ Plywood, MDF or Particle Board @ 29 1/4″ x 22 1/2″

Top Step Plywood Panel

Slide the plywood in place. Place just two screws near the top of the plywood so that you can easily slide it out when dis assembling the bed. DO NOT USE GLUE.

Step 18

4 – 1×2 @ 10 1/2″ (Middle Stair Cleats)

Middle Stair Cleats

Measure up 19 1/4″ and attach the middle stair cleats. These cleats will hold the top stair plywood in place as well. Use glue and 1 1/4″ screws and glue. By using this method, you can simple pull take out just a few screws and pull the plywood panels out to dis assemble the bed.

Step 19

1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 22 1/2″ x 19 1/4″

Middle Stair Plywood

As you did the top stair, place the middle stair plywood flush with the cleats and screw to the cleats with just two screws. Image is shown a

Step 20

4 – 1×2 @ 10 1/2″ (Bottom Stair Cleats)

Bottom Stair Cleats

Measure up 9 1/4″ from the bottom. This is the top of your bottom stair cleats. Attach the cleats with glue and 1 1/4″ screws to the plywood. Use a level to ensure that the cleats are level. Make sure there is a 3/4″ gap between the cleats and the front legs. You may need to adjust the length of your cleats accordingly.

Step 21

1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 22 1/2″ x 9 1/4″

Bottom Stair Plywood

Slide the bottom stair plywood in place. It should fit snugly. You can screw from the inside of the plywood into the wall legs if necessary.

Step 22

3 – 1×2 @ 22 1/2″ (Stair Hinge Supports)
Step 22: Stair Hinge Supports

Attach the stair hinge supports with 2″ screws and NO GLUE. You want these to be easily removeable. Keep edges flush with the plywood panels on the stairs behind the supports.

Step 23

2 – 1×10 @ 22 1/2″
1 – 3/4″ Plywood, MDF or particle board @ 13 1/4″ x 22 1/2″
Step 22: Stair Treads

Use the hinges to attach the stair treads to the supports from step 21. Remember, the real support comes from the cleats, not the 1×2 hinge support.

This completes the easy part. Finishing is going to be quite the project! I highly recommend painting the entire bed white, and then cutting in the color afterward on the panels. A sprayer would be a luxury too!

Comments

Laura (not verified)

Mon, 03/21/2011 - 04:08

I found your site the other day and I just keep coming back and looking at plans.  I love the idea of the steps going up to the top bed instead of a ladder.  In fact I had looked at the bed with storage steps that someone posted a few comments ago.  Is there any way to just add steps like this to the "simple bunk beds" plan that's on your site?  I'm trying to figure out how to make an opening in the top footboard so that the kid can easily get from the steps to the bed, but still make the beds able to be separated. 

ShellyV

Sat, 04/02/2011 - 20:32

I found your website about three weeks ago and I'm hooked.  My husband and I made the potting bench one Saturday afternoon.  We were so surprised we accomplished it.  We've started on the loft bed with stairs.  Is there an error in step 10?  Should it be 5 - 1x2s at 11 1/2 inches?

 

Trishdish

Wed, 04/20/2011 - 12:18

Just a tip for anyone getting ready to build this bed...buy the Kreg Jig not the other brand. When I went to the store they only had a different brand pocket hole jig. I figured there was no difference, but there is a huge difference! After building all my rails I went and bought the Kreg to finish the bed with, now I'm re-doing all the rails. The wood cracked all the time with the other brand, you could only fit one pocket hole on each rail instead of two and without the Kreg clamp it was super hard to get the rails to stay flush with the 1x4.

Update...I redid my rails, it went much faster with the Kreg jig and clamp and looks 100% better! (I bought the $39 Kreg Jig Jr.)

jphiggins2

Fri, 04/29/2011 - 00:52

I am wanting to build similar stairs with storage to put at the foot of my TALL bed for my small dog to use... (I have 17" think mattress, box springs and frame, I even have to step up some to get in... needless to say my dog cannot jump up high enough, I have to help her).

I'm thinking this would be the best plan to adapt for it, do you think so? Or is there one I have not found that would be better?

Bridgette (not verified)

Sat, 05/14/2011 - 14:23

I want to build this bed with the storage stairs, but in a full size. Is there any way to get the info to build it for full?

craftymom

Wed, 06/22/2011 - 09:35

My Girls have queen sized beds. My oldest is getting a storage bed, but my youngest wants a loft bed (well, they both do) but my issue is I dont want to fight with changing the sheets every time they need it. I am trying to come up with something half way between, and I know she wants stairs. Anyone built this to a queen size? or something similar?

That Girl Emma (not verified)

Sat, 08/06/2011 - 19:40

Hi, we live in Houston and are planning on building this bed for my daughter. I am a little concerned about the airflow underneath the bed when they are playing in there. Does it get hot under there, sometimes its all we can do to get out a/c to keep up in the summers. I was thinking about leaving the front piece with the door and window off. Maybe hanging a rail from IKEA and some curtains so I could still close it off. This would be beneficial if we wanted to put another mattress under there later too. Do you think this could work or would it compromise the strength of the bed? Thanks a lot.

C (not verified)

Tue, 01/10/2012 - 17:14

sorry but were are the plans for the bed itself? i have the stairs one here but I can't find one that has the list of materials ect? thanks
C