DIY pine board vertical toy box with cubbies and dump storage toy bin. Free plans by ana-white.com
1 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x8 @ 3 feet long
1- 1x4 @ 3 feet long
half sheet of 1/4" thick plywood or other hardboard for back (can also use a wainscoating panel if 32" tall)
2 - 1x12 @ 31-1/2" - sides
1 - 1x12 @ 33" - bottom
1 - 1x8 @ 35-1/2" top
1 - 1x10 @ 33" - shelf
2 - 1x10 @ 12-1/4" - cubby dividers
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 34-1/2" x 32-1/4" - back
1 - 1x10 @ 34-1/2" - front apron
1 - 1x4 @ 34-1/2" - cubby front - NOTE: I kinda wish I had used a 1x6 here. It would have made it difficult to store books in there, but the 1x4 just doesn't provide a big enough lip for containing small things like legos and little cars.
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
The first step is to take your side boards, carefully mark as pictured above, and cut off with a circular saw. As I do in the video, start on the shorter end - it will be easier to start than trying to start the circular saw at a steep angle.
Make sure you clamp your boards securely to a work surface so you can concentrate on your cut and not keeping the boards steady.
I used the first board as a pattern to cut the second. That worked pretty good for me. Then I sanded the cut edges lightly so they matched and were smooth. It's easier to do this now than when it's part of the project.
TIP: If you are using pocket holes to build, drill 3/4" pocket holes on the insides (the two sides are in mirror) of the top for attaching the top in step 3.
Now attach the bottom. You can use pocket holes if you are lucky enough to have a Kreg Jig. You can also nail this project with glue, because the project is reinforced with a full back and the front aprons.
A trick I do in the video is elevate the bottom shelf up on 2x2s to get the 1-1/2" gap, and then attach the sides.
The top overhangs the sides and front by 1/2". I nailed mine to the sides with glue. If using the pocket holes, attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
First take the dividers and place next to the sides. Trace the cut side profile on to the dividers and cut with a circular saw. Then place the dividers back inside the project, next to the sides to use as a spacer to find the placement of the middle shelf. Then attach middle shelf to the sides with either pocket holes or nails from outside (I use 1-1/4" nails and ample wood glue).
Then nail the dividers in place, with an even spacing between the dividers and sides.
Finally the front aprons!!!! Load your nailer back up with 1-1/4" nails, spread the glue, and attach to the sides and shelves.
Wouldn't it be fun to personalize the toybox with a kid's name?
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.