Truss End Table

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 03/26/2012 - 23:44
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Build this end table! DIY this end table with free plans from Ana White!

Can you believe that these end tables were built for $33?


Considering this design is inspired by Pottery Barn Sawyer end tables, retailing for $399 + $20 surcharge a piece, also made of pine ...

I'll do the math for you ...


[$399 + $20] X 2 = $838

Guess what this end table was made for?


Or two for $33.

That's an over $800 price difference. 

And bonus - you can stain or paint any color of your choice.

If you haven't already picked up a saw and started cutting, grabbed a drill and started building, I'm encouraging you to give it a go.


If you don't have the tools, experience, or even a work space, do not despair. Look around your home and draw inspiration from how you would like to make it better for your family. Cling to that inspiration, and call your dad, ask your neighbor, beg the nice person at the home improvement store - do what you need to to make your home better, no matter your budget or circumstances.

I worked with Ashley from Shanty2Chic on this project. Like many of us, Ashley is a working mom, with children at home. She wrote me last night saying, I'll have pictures to you after baseball is over. Because Ashley, like me, is just another mom trying to improve her home on a budget.  If we can do this, you certainly can as well.

I can't wait to see your handmade Truss Tables! They are going to be lovely.

PS - If you are interested in designing your own plans, I'm sharing my most secret tips, today's tip is on drawing angles the easy way. 

PSS - If you like this graphic, I show you how to make these graphics the super quick way, using software that you probably already have!

PSSS - Of course the coffee table is DIY too!  Build your own with these free plans!

Dimensions are shown above.


Shopping List

2 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x3 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2x2 @ 6 feet long
1 – 1x2 @ 4 feet long
1 1/4” and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws

*If you can't find 2x3s - a 2x6 can be ripped in half to make two 2x3s. They should measure 2 1/2" wide x 1 1/2" thick.

Cut List

4 – 2x3 @ 27” (Both ends cut at 10 degree bevel/5 degree angle, parallel, long point to short point)
2 – 2x3 @ 9 3/4" (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point)
2 – 2x3 @ 13" (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point)
2 – 2x2 @ 26 1/4" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point)
5 – 2x4 @ 31 1/2"
2 – 1x2 @ 24” (cut angles in last step)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

I always do this because with small angles - especially double angles - it will get confusing which way is which. It's the little things that save the time!

Step 2

With the legs marked, add the aprons. Pay close attention to this diagram. The top apron is flush on top to the outside, but will NOT be on the inside, which is hidden under the seat.

Build two that are identical.

NOTE: Pocket hole users may wish to drill 1 1/2" pocket holes along top INSIDE edge of each end for attaching top in step 4.

Step 3

Once you have the ends built, it's time to add the side supports.

Step 4

I recommend building your tabletop first with pocket holes - 1 1/2" PH with 2 1/2" PH screws - and then attaching to leg sides.

Step 5

Step 6

For more photos and tips, and finishing information, please visit Ashley at Shanty 2 Chic.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.


Morgan H (not verified)

Thu, 06/14/2012 - 11:46

I love the design of these tables, and it seems easy enough for me to actually build myself! Quick question, do you have a console table version of these plans? I wasn't able to find it on your site, but the look of this truss table would be amazing as a console table along the back of my couch. I thought I'd reach out and ask before I (and my not-so-experienced furniture building skills) attempt to figure out how to adjust this end table design.

Thanks so much, love all of your work!

A woman Becomi… (not verified)

Sat, 06/16/2012 - 10:31

I have to say, that I just found your website and I feel so motivated by all your plans. I GREATLY appreciate all the time, effort, tips, and wonderful photos that you have been ever so sweet to share. I went to the hardware store yesterday and felt so impowered when choosing my lumber. THANK YOU AGAIN for helping a mom grow into an independent little carpenter. ;)

James (not verified)

Fri, 11/02/2012 - 15:59

Let me start off by saying that I never took woodshop as a kid and work in software development. I am not a builder.

That changed a couple years ago when I bought my first house. I had to learn how to install plumbing, electrical wiring, walls, shingles, drywall...a lot of stuff. But the one thing I was never able to learn was how to build decent furniture to put in my now repaired home.

I read manuals, plans, and magazines about furniture making, and none of it made sense. I had just about given up on the idea of avoiding Ikea grade furniture until I found your site.

Yesterday, I built this table. After I put that last support in, I stood back and had to just marvel at what I had just built. The plans were easy to follow, and the quality of the final product is amazing.

Thank you so much for doing what you do. I'll be using a lot more of your plans, and when friends ask me how I was able to make such top notch furniture, I'll tell them the amazing Ana White showed me how.

Mandy Smith (not verified)

Fri, 01/11/2013 - 06:31

Hi I was looking at these plans and step one says the legs are 2x4 but the picture looks as if they are 2x3 and the top is 2x4 not sure what you used here

Heather B Newbie (not verified)

Mon, 01/14/2013 - 21:19

I LOVE LOVE LOVE these tables but I was wondering if you have any side tables (such as these) in taller versions? Long ago i feel in love with tall side tables and they are hard to find especially with drawers. Just hoping your creative ability will rub off on me. Thanks for your help.


Fri, 06/05/2015 - 19:00

I'm sorry, but the explanation of bevel and angle doesn't work for me. Is it not simpler to simply show a drawing with these angles, because that is what they both are?



Wed, 09/14/2016 - 16:23

To all of those who had problems with this project: I've been building furniture for a few years and had quite the time with this puzzle. More detailed instructions would have been worthwhile. Don"t be afraid to chime in and let Ana and co. know that this one was a bear and that all the declarations touting the ease of this project were a little misleading.

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