Ultimate DIY Adirondack Chair Plans

ultimate Adirondack chair plans
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Easy to build, comfortable, strong, sturdy, inexpensive and durable, we call this Adirondack chair our "Ultimate" because it delivers on all the levels!  Even a beginner woodworker can build these amazing outdoor chairs.

This plan is easy to customize, to suit different sized cushions, or for size preferences.  

Build today with our free, step by step project plans with free PDF (click here to start download of one page PDF Plan), video tutorial and shopping and cut lists from Ana-White.com

 

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Why Build this Adirondack Chair?

This chair is a combination of my original modern Adirondack chair circa 2010 and our current favorite Adirondack Chair where we went to a 2x4 frame and 1x6 design for durability and building ease back in 2019.  These updates create a new chair that has the best of all designs:

  • Simpler to build, no pocket holes and beginner friendly methods
  • Minimal angle cuts
  • Durable design, similar to how a picnic table is built
  • Very comfortable, even without a cushion
  • Compact footprint 
  • Easy to move around
  • But still heavy enough to not blow away in the wind

Build Video - Watch Me Build this Chair

 More Free Adirondack Chair Plans from Ana White

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Ultimate DIY Adirondack Chair Plans

Dimensions
dimensions for Adirondack chair
Dimensions for Adirondack Chair in diagram, as shown seat is 22" wide x 20" deep

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 12 feet long *
  • 1-3/4" and 2-1/2" self tapping exterior wood screws
Cut List
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 33-3/4" - seat stringers
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 22" - front seat apron
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 19" - seat back support
  • 3 - 1x6 @ 22" - seat boards
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 32" - back supports
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 19" - back boards
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 18-1/2" - long point to short point measurement, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 26-1/4" - arm rests

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Level

Instructions

Step 1

Build the seat frame with 2x4s and 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws.

Use exterior wood glue for added durability.

Step 2

Attach the seat support boards to the frame with 1-3/4" self tapping wood screws. Use exterior wood glue for added durability.

Step 3

Attach the back 1x6 boards to the seat back framing 2x4s with 1-3/4" self tapping wood screws.  Use exterior wood glue for added durability.

Step 4

Insert the seat back into the seat frame, attach from the back seat framing board as shown in the diagram with 2-1/2" screws.

Position the angle of the seat at 90 degrees and attach from the sides with multiple 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Mark the legs as shown, the marking will be perpendicular to the the edge of the 2x4 leg (not parallel to the 15 degree angle cut)

Attach to the seat stringer from the inside with multiple 2-1/2" screws at different angles for added durability.

Step 6

Place the chair on a level surface.

Set the arm rest on the leg and place a level on top of the arm rest.

Mark level on the 2x4 seat back and then attach the arms to the seat back.

Then attach the arms to the tops of the legs.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
For the finish, I recommend filling all screw holes with an exterior wood filler. Overfill the holes and let dry.
Sand off excess until smooth.
Remove all sanding residue.
Finish Used
I recommend an exterior penetrating stain, similar to a stain you could use on a fence.
Make sure you stain the bottoms of the legs to prevent moisture damage at the feet.

Maintenance - Every spring, clean and tighten any screws. Add a coat of exterior penetrating stain if needed (about every 5 years).

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!