Updated plans for the Tryde Coffee Table. Build your own solid wood rustic coffee table! Free plans from Ana-White.com

Preparation
6 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
100 - 2 1/2" Pocket hole screws, coarse thread
8 - 2x4 @ 47 1/2"
2 - 2x4 @ 28" (recommend cutting to fit after step 1)
2 - 2x4 @ 18"
2 - 2x4 @ 42 1/2"
4 - 4x4 @ 16 1/2"
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Now let's move on to the legs.
Take a scrap piece of 1/2" plywood and use it as a spacer to elevate your apron when attaching to the legs to get the 1/2" inset. Remember to face the 1 1/2" pocket holes in the aprons facing upward for attaching the tabletop in last step.
Build two end aprons/leg sets.
Step 4
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
seancalleja
Sun, 12/30/2012 - 15:50
Original Tryde and Updated Tryde
The lumber list difference between these two projects is crazy! I recently borrowed a Kreg Jig, I moved the guy's piano;) fair trade I say.
But to my question, the picture looks like it obviously has 2x6's on the bead board ends, not 2x4's. Is this just for aesthetics? I still can't believe that because I am using a Kreg Jig I don't need all of those aprons and supports.
Thanks for your responses.
Sean
LindC Gentry
Wed, 01/23/2013 - 19:09
Mini Kreg Jig
Hi guys!
Basically I'm a poor college student who wants a coffee table and I think it would be super cool to build one myself! But I was wondering if you thought it would be possible to build this with a mini kreg jig instead of a fullsize one? A mini one is just so much cheaper and I really dont have the money to throw down another hundred dollars right now. Thanks for your input!!
In reply to Mini Kreg Jig by LindC Gentry
Jake
Mon, 01/28/2013 - 04:00
Mini Kreg Jig
Personally I own the Kreg Jr and the Mini. I really love the mini because in some way it is easier to use. If you don't need two PHs in a board just use the mini. Also with the mini set you get another drill. Set one for 3/4" and the other for 1 1/2" and you are ready for most boards you will need to connect. Have a second drill with the driver in place and off to the races you go.
andyx
Sun, 01/27/2013 - 16:39
staining
how do I finish it? I'd like to stain it.
Do I sand now? I did not pre-sand anything before assembling it.
if I want to distress it with a chain, do I distress it first and then sand? or sand and then distress?
when staining, do I sand in between coats?
first time building something, surprised to see it was leveled at the end!!
In reply to staining by andyx
Lady Goats
Mon, 01/28/2013 - 08:27
Great job on your first build!
I still get surprised when everything's level in the end! HA! What I would do is sand, distress, sand again *only* if the distressing has caused the wood to splinter, stain (sanding between coats should be addressed on the can of stain. Some of the stains I've used have recommended it, some didn't.), seal. Follow the instructions on the can, because the stains/sealants have very different instructions from one type to another.
andyx
Tue, 01/29/2013 - 17:13
@Gina
Dumb follow up question: Is the seal colored? or clear? does it come in spray version? thanks!
In reply to @Gina by andyx
Lady Goats
Tue, 01/29/2013 - 21:09
Thnot a dumb question..
Short answer: no.
What most people here tend to use is either a polyurethane or a polycrylic. Neither are "colored", but polyurethane tends to yellow a tad over time. It's usually not noticeable over stain, but is very noticeable over light colored paints. I've never used polycrylic (paint does not need to be sealed as it is intended to be a final coat in most cases), so just a normal polyurethane (Minwax is a cheap/reliable brand) does not come colored.
Jake
Mon, 01/28/2013 - 04:05
Gluing the Top
I seldom glue the top of tables to the spreaders, legs, and aprons. The reason is to be able to easily take care of problems with the top should it split or warp because of environmental conditions. It will fit flush if you sand the tops of the legs, aprons, and spreaders so they are even with each other. The PH screws will hold the top very tight.
SneedWood
Sun, 05/24/2015 - 10:01
Forget the Aprons and Switch the Breadboard P-Holes
When you use pocket holes on this it is completely unnecessary to use so many screws on the breadboards. You also don't need the aprons if you don't want them. This was one of my first projects (with the old plan) and from the start I found it unsuitably weak and found the number of exposed fasteners unacceptable even with filler. I finally took it apart and this time I planed the 2x4's and replaced and planed the 2x6's, rebuilt with pocket holes, ditched the aprons, sanded with 100 then 220, routered the edges, and finished with simple Danish Oil.
Fasten the legs with one P-hole on each inside face and breadboards with P-holes from the 2x6 into the 2x4, one on each outside 2x4, then one on the third in from each side (essentially every other 2x4), and you can easily use three P-holes, rather than four to connect the 2x4's.
Routering is surprisingly easy so don't be intimidated thinking you need surgeon's hands and it seems EVERYONE overlooks the nice rustic look of Danish Oil and it is SO easy to use.
I'm always my own worst critic, but now I love this table.
kstaylor1985
Mon, 11/02/2015 - 13:58
Sealer
Hi!
My husband and I built this table, stained it, and sealed it with a clear polyurethane. After drying for 2 days we brought it into the house. Well, it is still sticky, paper gets stuck on it. Can anyone help me out and suggest something to fix it?? :) thanks!