Updated Tryde Coffee Table - Pocket Holes

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 10/30/2012 - 13:31
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Updated plans for the Tryde Coffee Table. Build your own solid wood rustic coffee table! Free plans from Ana-White.com

Last Thursday we had our Third Birthday!

I've been so exhausted from the flu and catching up on emails and the blog, I didn't even know!

We have a lot to celebrate over the last year!  As far as blogging years go, this one has got to be my most favorite. This past year, we embraced many of you as contributors to the blog, bringing different styles and personalities to our DIY furniture.  I've made so many new friends and learned so much as a result, and love the stories you bring to our DIY furniture.

This past year, we transformed the Momplex from an empty shell into what is sure looking like a cozy home for Mom!  It's been a big task, and your support has helped us push through hard times.  Thank you so much for being there for us!

And of course our first book came out!  Thank you for your support and encouragement!  

What a great year it was indeed.

So what's next?

Here's what we are hoping to focus on this coming year:

1. More DIY plans.  I want to add a ton more plans in the coming year providing more selection and options for you.

2. Better support.  If there is anything that keeps me up at night and makes me sad, it's my inbox.  I am so sorry if I could not answer your email.  It's my goal in this coming year to bring on an assistant to help me and provide better support to you.

3. More Video.  Some of you are visual learners.  I will work very hard to get a comprehensive How-To video library up this year.

4. Finishing the Momplex.  We are reaching the most exciting part of the Mompex, the inside!  I heard the D-Word (drywall!) and we can't wait to furnish the Momplex with DIY furniture!

5. Sharing More.  Did you know the week before we went on book tour, we were out harvesting moose in hurricane force winds for our winter food supply?  That I cook a grain-free diet to keep my family healthy and happy?  DIY encompasses so much more than furniture in our home, and we see tremendous value from our DIY lifestyle. 

And the Ram keeps pestering me about how quiet the house seems now that Gracie is in school ... we'll see ....

And in between all these goals for the coming year, I'd like to go back and update a few of the most favorite plans on the blog.  Over the years, I've learned so much and it's only fair that some of our best plans be improved as well.

One of the all time favorite plans is the Tryde Coffee Table.

This one was built by Jeff from A Touch of Arkansas.

I designed the original plan before I used a Pocket Hole Jig.  The plans as they are are totally fine.  But if you use a Pocket Hole Jig, you can buy less lumber, use less screws, build faster and easier, and hide every single screw hole.  

Cheaper, faster and easier?  Uh, yes!  

So here's the first of a few plans I want to update - the Tryde Coffee Table built with Pocket Holes.


PS - Been thinking of you folks on the East Coast.  Stay warm and safe!

Dimensions shown above.


Shopping List

6 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
100 - 2 1/2" Pocket hole screws, coarse thread

Cut List

8 - 2x4 @ 47 1/2"
2 - 2x4 @ 28" (recommend cutting to fit after step 1)
2 - 2x4 @ 18"
2 - 2x4 @ 42 1/2"
4 - 4x4 @ 16 1/2"

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Start by building the table top boards. Clamp each joint and attach with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. Make sure your ends are flush. If they are not, you will need to cut ends flush with a circular saw before attaching breadboard ends.

Step 2

measure width of tabletop and cut breadboard ends. Attach breadboard ends to the tabletop as shown above, with ends flush.

Set the tabletop aside.

Step 3

Now let's move on to the legs.

Take a scrap piece of 1/2" plywood and use it as a spacer to elevate your apron when attaching to the legs to get the 1/2" inset. Remember to face the 1 1/2" pocket holes in the aprons facing upward for attaching the tabletop in last step.

Build two end aprons/leg sets.

Step 4

Then attach the two leg sets together to form the tabletop base with the side aprons. Remember to keep the pocket holes for attaching the tabletop later on facing upward.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Sun, 12/30/2012 - 15:50

The lumber list difference between these two projects is crazy! I recently borrowed a Kreg Jig, I moved the guy's piano;) fair trade I say.
But to my question, the picture looks like it obviously has 2x6's on the bead board ends, not 2x4's. Is this just for aesthetics? I still can't believe that because I am using a Kreg Jig I don't need all of those aprons and supports.
Thanks for your responses.

LindC Gentry

Wed, 01/23/2013 - 19:09

Hi guys!
Basically I'm a poor college student who wants a coffee table and I think it would be super cool to build one myself! But I was wondering if you thought it would be possible to build this with a mini kreg jig instead of a fullsize one? A mini one is just so much cheaper and I really dont have the money to throw down another hundred dollars right now. Thanks for your input!!


Mon, 01/28/2013 - 04:00

Personally I own the Kreg Jr and the Mini. I really love the mini because in some way it is easier to use. If you don't need two PHs in a board just use the mini. Also with the mini set you get another drill. Set one for 3/4" and the other for 1 1/2" and you are ready for most boards you will need to connect. Have a second drill with the driver in place and off to the races you go.


Sun, 01/27/2013 - 16:39

how do I finish it? I'd like to stain it.

Do I sand now? I did not pre-sand anything before assembling it.
if I want to distress it with a chain, do I distress it first and then sand? or sand and then distress?

when staining, do I sand in between coats?

first time building something, surprised to see it was leveled at the end!!

In reply to by andyx

Lady Goats

Mon, 01/28/2013 - 08:27

I still get surprised when everything's level in the end! HA! What I would do is sand, distress, sand again *only* if the distressing has caused the wood to splinter, stain (sanding between coats should be addressed on the can of stain. Some of the stains I've used have recommended it, some didn't.), seal. Follow the instructions on the can, because the stains/sealants have very different instructions from one type to another.


Tue, 01/29/2013 - 17:13

Dumb follow up question: Is the seal colored? or clear? does it come in spray version? thanks!

In reply to by andyx

Lady Goats

Tue, 01/29/2013 - 21:09

Short answer: no.

What most people here tend to use is either a polyurethane or a polycrylic. Neither are "colored", but polyurethane tends to yellow a tad over time. It's usually not noticeable over stain, but is very noticeable over light colored paints. I've never used polycrylic (paint does not need to be sealed as it is intended to be a final coat in most cases), so just a normal polyurethane (Minwax is a cheap/reliable brand) does not come colored.


Mon, 01/28/2013 - 04:05

I seldom glue the top of tables to the spreaders, legs, and aprons. The reason is to be able to easily take care of problems with the top should it split or warp because of environmental conditions. It will fit flush if you sand the tops of the legs, aprons, and spreaders so they are even with each other. The PH screws will hold the top very tight.


Sun, 05/24/2015 - 10:01

When you use pocket holes on this it is completely unnecessary to use so many screws on the breadboards. You also don't need the aprons if you don't want them. This was one of my first projects (with the old plan) and from the start I found it unsuitably weak and found the number of exposed fasteners unacceptable even with filler. I finally took it apart and this time I planed the 2x4's and replaced and planed the 2x6's, rebuilt with pocket holes, ditched the aprons, sanded with 100 then 220, routered the edges, and finished with simple Danish Oil.
Fasten the legs with one P-hole on each inside face and breadboards with P-holes from the 2x6 into the 2x4, one on each outside 2x4, then one on the third in from each side (essentially every other 2x4), and you can easily use three P-holes, rather than four to connect the 2x4's.
Routering is surprisingly easy so don't be intimidated thinking you need surgeon's hands and it seems EVERYONE overlooks the nice rustic look of Danish Oil and it is SO easy to use.
I'm always my own worst critic, but now I love this table.


Mon, 11/02/2015 - 13:58


My husband and I built this table, stained it, and sealed it with a clear polyurethane. After drying for 2 days we brought it into the house. Well, it is still sticky, paper gets stuck on it. Can anyone help me out and suggest something to fix it?? :) thanks!