Upholstered Settee

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Free plans to build a upholstered settee or dining room banquette bench

DIY friends and folks, Happy Monday! I hope you had a wonderful weekend!

We are doing our best to meet our goal - getting a Mom moved in at the Momplex for Mother's Day - so I do apologize if I've been a little behind on answering comments or facebook replies - and I greatly appreciate those of you stepping up to help others out. You are lovely and much appreciated! 

I'll be doing what I can to keep plans coming your way over the next few weeks while we finish up the mechanical stage at the Momplex, followed by drywall ... and then I do believe it's time to do *gasp* built in cabinetry including kitchens and bath vanities! So you'll be on plan overload then! 

In the meantime, please please please extend a huge thank you to the contributors who are stepping up to build plans for you. Projects like today's project I would never post without being tested, and Jenny actually redid the legs on this upholstered settee THREE TIMES to get it right!!! Yes, we love you!

You already know Jenny from Birds and Soap - if not, let me refresh, Jenny and her family built this bed:

And shared the plans with you for free with you here.

Well, she's back and blowing us away this time with an upholstered settee!

Would you like to build a free standing settee for you dining room, or just as a comfy place to remove shoes in your entryway?  Guess what?  YOU CAN!!!!

Jenny built this upholstered settee out of 2x4s and other boards.  But to make the seat more comfortable, Jenny opted to use webbing for the seat and back. And she also added the buttons in pattern - aren't they lovely?  To get all the details, you must go visit Jenny and read her post on building this bench, and then part two of upholstering and finishing the upholstered settee.  I promise you, you will say, oh, that's how that's done! and be glad you took a second to stop over - I sure am!

Thank you so much Jenny - it is always an honor to get the chance to work with you on a plan!  

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

2 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
4 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long
2 – sheets 1/8” plywood or other backing material (firm cardboard could work for back but probably not seat or upholstery webbing)
12 – 4” ¼” diameter bolts with nuts and washers
2 ½” PH screws
Spray adhesive
4 – 5 yards upholstery batting
4-5 yards (depending on fabric direction/print and width maybe even more) fabric
½” staples

THIS LIST DOES NOT INCLUDE PILLOW SUPPLIES

Cut List

FRAME
2 – 2x4 @ 34 3/8” (top end cut at 5 degrees off square, shortest point measurement)
4 – 2x2 @ 56” (back supports)
1 – 2x4 @ 56” (back supports)
1 – 1x2 @ 56” (back support cleat)
4 – 2x6 @ 27” (seat supports/side aprons)
1 – 2x4 @ 59” (back)
1 – 2x6 @ 56” (front)
1 – 1/8” plywood @ 59” x 22” (back covering if not using webbing)
1 – 1/8” plywood @ 59 x 30” ((seat covering if not using webbing)

*** Jenny actually modified this bench so the seat is 24" deep to accommodate standard sized foam. To make this modification, you will need to cut seat supports/side aprons to 21" length instead of 27".

Cutting Instructions

NOTE that is this plan, Jenny has made some modifications and I highly recommend you stopping over to get more details.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First, cut your legs for the back. Jenny actually made her legs longer for a taller seat - you can see how she did that here.

Step 2

Once your legs are cut, you can build the back.

Step 3

Then you'll want to add some cleats just to give you something to finish the back off with when you go to add plywood if you are using plywood.

Step 4

Again, something to nail plywood on to and finish off the bottom edge of your upholstery.

Step 5

Step 6

Jenny really liked the seat angled back for comfort, so we opted to cut the 2x6 seat supports down a bit to get this angle. Mark and cut with a circular saw.

Step 7

Now build your frame as shown above. Note that we did change things up and integrate the front legs into the frame for better support. Jenny also recommends adding corner supports to keep the frame square and stronger.

Step 8

Next, it's time to make sure the frame fits with the back. Also, here you can drill bolt holes to later attach the two upholstered sections together. Fit the back and seat together with bolts and test out to make sure everything fits and is solid. Then take the two pieces apart to upholster individually.

NOTE that you can permanently attach the seat to back here, but you will most likely have to do a lot more sewing - that's why bolts are recommended.

Step 9

Cover the back in foam and batting, followed by fabric slipcovered and stapled on the bottom. For more details from Jenny on how she upholstered her bench, you can go here.

Step 10

Next, upholster the seat. You can do 1/8" hardboard for a firmer seat as shown here, or you can add webbing. You can also opt to place the foam cushion on top, followed by batting and fabric, or you can add batting and fabric to the seat, and then sew a cushion for on top.

Step 11

Once the two pieces are upholstered, attach with bolts and tighten underneath.

Step 12

And then add any pillows to the seat or back!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

spiceylg

Tue, 02/05/2013 - 06:37

Wow, that is really nice, Jenny! Please don't apologize to us Ana. You all have so much on your plate and your priorities are right. You take as much time as you need and we all will be anxiously waiting the posts, plans, and pictures! Thanx for all you do!

redhead_61

Tue, 02/05/2013 - 15:30

This is so cute. It would be so fun in a kids size too! Those upholstered chairs are CRAZY expensive for kids.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!