Modern outdoor chairs
Love these plans! Made a modification and added backs to the chairs. Also, built ottomans to match the chairs which can also be used as additional seating.
Many compliments on the set. Thanks Ana!
Love these plans! Made a modification and added backs to the chairs. Also, built ottomans to match the chairs which can also be used as additional seating.
Many compliments on the set. Thanks Ana!
I made this play kitchen as a Christmas present for my kids, and it’s been a big hit! It’s built mostly from leftover hardwood plywood, and a couple of 1x12 pine boards. The oven knobs and faucet were cut from redwood scraps and attached with 1/2” dowels to freely rotate. The vertical surfaces were painted with leftover house paint and sealed with water-based polycrylic. It was a fun build, and I learned some new skills (like installing hinges)! Thanks for the plans!
Mon, 06/05/2023 - 07:50
WOW, this is just too cute, can I get one in my size please! Thank you so much for sharing, love your finish choices.
This was my first finished project using plans from Ana's site, and I am very pleased with the finished product. Every aspect of the finished sideboard is based on something from the site. I started with the plans for the Planked Wood Sideboard, and made no modifications as the dimensions were perfect for our basement family room. I decided to inset the back (http://www.friendly-home.net/2012/02/gigantic-rustic-sideboard.html) as Ana explained that Hillary had done, and love the final result. This will allow us to use this to potentially divide a room in an open concept space at some point in the future.
For the finishing process, I decided to follow the "Rustic Yet Refined" finish tutorial highlighted on both the Ana-White site (http://ana-white.com/2013/08/rustic-yet-refined-wood-finish) and Jen Woodhouse House of Wood (http://jenwoodhouse.com/blog/2013/06/07/diy-dining-table/). I fully intended to complete the 9 step process, but found that after we applied the Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner, followed by Minwax special walnut stain and wiped it off within 15-30 seconds, the finish mirrored the restoration hardware finish that we were going for. We decided not to proceed with layering on the weathered oak or applying the whitewash, and went straight to the spar urethane satin coats.
Overall, the project was a success, but was difficult to finish during the Minnesota winter as it was unbelievably cold and was forced to complete the finishing process in our basement/laundry room, which extended the length of the project. I am very excited to begin building other pieces from Ana's plans.
Mon, 03/03/2014 - 10:01
Absolutely beautiful! Thank you for all the details on how you did this!
In reply to Absolutely beautiful! Thank by moosmani
Thu, 03/13/2014 - 07:09
Thank you so much for your kind words. I am extremely impressed with your brag posts as well, and you may have been inspired to take on the picket storage shed project as soon as the snow melts.
Farmhouse table made from distressed (worm hole) maple.
My neighbor was able to get me the 5/4 distressed maple for about $2/bd ft - I ended up buying 100 board feet and had plenty leftover. The finished board feet for this project was about 60 if I remember correctly. So the $200 was the bulk of the expense. The only other costs were sand paper, I bought a Kreg Jig, screws, Minwax Marker, paint, stain and urethane (much of which I already had).
It came out better than I anticipated. The antique white finish was not difficult at all.
Tip - When following the instructions for the finish here, I applied the first coat of urethane with a brush almost immediately after applying the Minwax marker to all of the sanded edges. I did this in haste, but ended up with some unexpected results that really added a nice touch. The stain from the marker incorporated a bit into the urethane as I brushed it giving it an antique, yellow hue. At first I thought I made a big mistake, but it turned out to add a really nice look.
Mon, 05/19/2014 - 07:29
CSaintD - The top can be removed as I did not glue it. I set 3 dowels on top of each of the 2 legs so that the top would always lign up correctly if disassembled and reasembled. The stretcher could be removed, but would probably cause some damage to the finish as it was a tight fight when I finished it. The stretcher would be removed by removing the dowel pegs that I fabricated on each leg.
In reply to Disassembly by g82martin
Mon, 05/19/2014 - 08:21
Thanks. I really like the dowel pegs on the legs/stretcher. Very nice top finishing as well. Did you square the boards to get them to be so smooth when joined?
Mon, 05/19/2014 - 08:26
I cheated a bit on the top. My neighbor who got me the wood works in a furniture reupholsery shop. He planed and joined the boards for me, which saved me a good amount of time. I'm confident I could have done this at home with my table saw, miter saw and hand plane, but what he did in 2 hours probably would have taken me 10.
Fri, 08/05/2016 - 20:35
Love the dowels you added! Planning on building this exact table pretty close to your dimensions and have a very long church pew as well! Trying to decide between L-ing my pew and cutting to straigjy 6'. Do you mind sharing the dimensions of your pew? And how did you miter the pew?
Tue, 01/21/2020 - 09:40
Beautiful table. I love the pegs added to the legs and stretcher, they add a historic detail lost in a lot of today's building techniques
I didn't really follow any of Ana's plans for this build, but it is a result of using her plans up to this point in my woodworking journey that enabled me to complete this one! I don't own a table saw, so this was constructed using a circular saw, miter saw, Kreg jig, and a nail gun. It was the first time I've had to cut and attach crown molding, and I also learned how to cope baseboard trim using a Dremel. Another first was using a router to rabbet out the back so the plywood back wasn't visible from the sides. I learn something new every build :)
I'm thrilled with the change in the room with this new project. We had two narrower bookcases side-by-side in there before, and they were about the height of the windows with a stain color that didn't match any of the other wood pieces in the rooms. This cabinet looks like it belongs in the room.
Thu, 12/27/2012 - 07:54
Very well done. It fits right in and looks absolutely beautiful. I am working and practicing to reach your skill level so I can do amazing things too!
We used the shoe dresser instructions with some modifications to make it longer
This was born out of the need for more counter space in our galley kitchen. We don't have the space to add an island. Especially around the holidays, it would be great to have extra space for making cookies, serving big meals, etc. I used Ana's Small Kitchen Island Prep Cart plans for inspiration. I adapted the dimensions to fit at the end of our counters when not in use and added a drop leaf to give us almost 4 additional feet of butcher block counter top when we need it. I used scrap lumber that I had for the cabinet and had an extra drawer handle that matches our kitchen cabinets but bought the butcher block, locking casters, drawer slide and hardware for the legs. Also, the weight of the butcher block makes it want to tip when it's away from the cabinet with the drop leaf down so I added a lead counter weight inside the drawer.
Tue, 04/27/2021 - 18:09
I am so interested in doing this, but would like more details on how the drop leaf was constructed. Would it be possible to get more information?
In reply to I am so interested in doing… by haartd
Sat, 07/24/2021 - 16:59
Sure! I used a 4 foot butcher block and cut it down. The horizontal part is 13 1/2" and the drop leaf part is 32 1/8" attached with a piano hinge. The legs need to be cut and hinged to fit when folded up. This one is made so that the drop leaf fits right under the overhang of the kitchen countertop that it is next to so it's snug against the cabinet and not an issue but, if you want it to be freestanding, the weight of the butcher block will pull it over if you don't weight the cabinet down with something as well. I got a 5 pound lead bar from Amazon in case we need to use it somewhere else. I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
This locker cabinet was my first build and I learned a ton. For example:
1. Use the Kreg face clamps while drilling into the Kreg Jr.
2. Buy straight wood.
3. Buy wood that is not warped.
4. Do not try to buy wood with grouchy kids in tow.
Are you seeing a theme? Yep, your project will only be as square and perfect as the wood you buy.
I modified the locker plan to include apothecary-style drawers for our cell phones, sunglasses and chapstick. I also drilled through the back of one of the drawers to turn it into a charging station for our cell phones.
The locker has been super useful so far and is such a great way to keep my kids' backpacks and lunchboxes organized. The baskets are designated for my purse, stuff I need to return to stores, the dog's leashes, and library books. It's so nice to have all this stuff near the front door and never wonder where any of it is!
Not too bad of a project but had to a good bit of guess work so I could changed the plans for a queen size bed and flip in on its side.
Sun, 05/29/2016 - 18:50
Good evening!
I am new at wood working, and would be very interrested in knowing the different measurements you changed to get from a twin to queen murphy bed. If it is posted on this page, I tried but couldn't find it. Thank you for your help. Have a good day.
Marie-Julie
Modified the plans to make a fourth cubby, they turned out great!
The wife has a hard time bending down so she wanted pedestals for the washer and dryer. The metal ones with a drawer were too tall. I showed her Sausha's and she really loved that design. I basically used the same construction plans idea from Sausha's project and some tips from Ryan's brag post. But, I wanted to beef it up some. I didn't like the L-bracket to attach the top and 4X4 legs. It didn't seem sturdy enough for me. I used my table saw to square the edges on the 4X4 posts and the 2X6 rails. Then I used my Kreg jig and glued and screwed everything together. I liked Ryan's trim ideas, so I used baseboard trim for the bottom and flipped it for the top trim. I made a 1/2" lip so if it were to vibrate, the washer/dryer would not fall. I put the trim on the bottom of the legs and was considering putting on the top but I put some different trim all the way around the bottom of the 2X6 rails. The wife liked that. I also added some carpet on the top to cut down on vibration and to help keep the units in place. I also put some 4X4 pieces of carpet on the bottom to keep the noise down and to help in moving it. I primed and used an gravity sprayer to paint it. Then I put 3 coats of polyacrylic to help in cleaning and to cut down on scratches from the laundry baskets.
Wed, 06/29/2016 - 14:31
I think you could probably drive a truck on top of yours. :) I was a bit concerned about the strength of the construction when I first decided to build it, but I decided that since it would be stationary once I have it in place and the only force would be straight down, it would be fine. Once I got it put together, it was actually sturdier than I thought it was going to be...from a horizontal force perspective. Virtically, that thing could hold 100 washer/dryer pairs...the plywould would give out before the 2x4s and 4x4s would even budge.
Anyway, nice work! I love the Kreg Jig...I need one of those.
Sun, 01/29/2017 - 16:23
Great looking build, thanks for the detailed photos!
We modified Ana White’s excellent Mud Kitchen plans, adding a third section and scaling the whole thing slightly larger to be a better size for our 4 and 6 year old grand daughters. It was so much fun to make and accessorize!
I used cedar and added the extra boards so the cushions would stay put. We also made the arms 2x6 boards so we wouldn’t need end tables for the couch. The plans were super easy to follow. I mostly used pocket holes so the screws wouldn’t be visible. Love how it came out! Thank you for the plans, Ana!!
Modified the junior loft plan to add a house design element and storage stairs, by Amy Mott
We chose this project because we have a small garage and space is at a premium. The dimensions of this build fit well in our limited space and allowed us to organize items such as paint, stain, screws and nails into one central location. I chose 2x4's on the sides to give it a more stable feel. Our garage and parking lot are all sloped and with the 2x4's this prevented the twisting. It feels solid and the wheels are smooth. We picked everything up at Home Depot. The screws that came with the hinges are to long and my husband used the Dremel to grind them down. You could just buy shorter screws. This is one of my firsts builds and I've definitely learned a lot of lessons along the way. Measure, measure, then measure again before you cut a piece and use a level surface to make level pieces. Overall, everyone in my family played a part in helping me build this piece and so I love it and will cherish this piece and the memories always. Thanks Ana for all your fun videos, sharing your life with your family, and providing resources like this plan to us for free. I'm thankful for my son who bought me a compound miter saw for Mother's Day and other family for buying me a Ryobi circular saw. I'm truly blessed and loved. Thanks
Mon, 08/31/2020 - 11:19
I love how you used the 2x4 on the sides. great idea
DIY Adirondack Chair
Enjoyed making the potting bench
Thanks for the plans.
Tom Schoeninger
Ana, thanks for these plans! They inspired me to make my first bed build. I also want to thank all of you that added brag posts! They gave me ideas for some of the modifications that I made. I did this build by mixing your Queen Farmhouse and Queen Farmhouse Storage bed plans. I also added a number of modifications to suit my own preferences. The drawer boxes I changed by building a faceplate (I didn't want the plywood ends exposed), and by increasing in depth to maximize some additional storage. Since I increased the drawer sizes, I went with the euro roller bearing slides. I increased the foot-board height to be slightly higher than the mattress. I also designed the footboard to have a removable inner section with hidden latches on the inside. I did this because I wanted to make use of the "dead space" between the drawer boxes. I then used this space to house a hidden drawer, that is approx six feet deep (I couldn't help myself-I love hidden drawers ). Because I added the hidden drawer, I changed the opptional center support to 4X4 blockes that were pocket screwed under the center of the boxes. I ended up using birch plywood and fir for this build. For my first bed build I'm fairly happy with how it came out. Thanks again!
Thu, 12/11/2014 - 07:41
This is your first build and you did all of those awesome modifications?! Really impressive and it looks perfect! Congrats and welcome to the community!
In reply to Seriously?! by spiceylg
Sun, 12/14/2014 - 06:03
Thanks for the compliments! It was a fun learning experience. Making all the modifications definitely slowed down the build, but also made it more rewarding!
Fri, 12/12/2014 - 13:18
I just started my bed (mostly out of Baltic Birch) and am wondering where you were able to find such nice 4x4s. Your bed is gorgeous! No luck here. I bought redwood, but really wanted fir for the sharper edges. It's my first project, too. I also bought same drawer slides, but the soft close. Didn't want the slam. I figure building it will be the easy part compared to procuring nice 4x4s! Hope you can help!
Sun, 12/14/2014 - 06:01
Thanks! The 4x4s I found at a place called Better Living Building Supply. They had a pretty nice assortment of fir, including the 4x4s, so that is why I chose it for the build. Finding the 4x4s slowed down my start on the build. Our local Lowes only had them in treated pine.
Sat, 09/05/2015 - 20:47
Thank you for the pictures, the bed turned out Awesome. I was wondering about the latching system for the foot of the bed. Do you think a piano hinge on the lower would work too? Also on the center drawer did you use rollers or is it just friction? Can't wait to start the build.
Thanks
Mon, 02/15/2016 - 14:11
This is excellent!!! I really like this, so much in fact that the wife is going to have to get used to it too. lol But really, GREAT work! Any chance you could post a pic and or comment about how you attached that removeable end? i think this is the best part! Cheers!
Wed, 10/24/2018 - 23:21
How can I get / purchase the plans for the construction of the bed ?
Tue, 12/10/2019 - 08:42
Beekeeper, Awesome build!!! Have you posted your altered plans anywhere? I'm very interested in your build, I was wondering about some aspects of it and how you approached it. Plans would clear it up instead of bothering you with all my questions.
Mon, 11/16/2020 - 15:42
Bed turned out awesome. I was wondering if you have the plans for the bed with a list of supplies it took to make this bed. I so want this bed it's just what we are needing
Great job
Steps:
1) Cut the boards to the specs below or adjust to your space
2) Kreg Jig the cut boards along each of the sides (length wise and on the ends) for attaching and making a box.
3) Make 3 separate boxes, don't assemble until you move to location. I used 4x4 cedar posts in the corners of the base box to add stability. I used 2x2 pine in the front corners of boxes 2 and 3 for stability. Install these after the dirt has been added so you can hammer in as a stake, attach with screws on front and sides. I created 2 stakes for boxes 2 and 3 and added to the front to prevent bowing when the dirt is added.
Box Dimensions:
1) (base) 70.5" L x 46 W x 4 cedar boards high
2) 70.5" L x 32 W x 2 cedar boards high
3) 70.5" L x 16 W x 2 cedar boards high
I followed your basic farmhouse bed plans and modified them. I have made three headboards now. Each time someone sees them, they want me to build one for them!
Comments
Ana White Admin
Tue, 06/08/2021 - 10:44
Awesome!
Love the added ottomans! Great job all around, thank you for sharing.