Farmhouse Table - Updated Pocket Hole Plans

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 08/23/2019 - 14:53
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build a Farmhouse Table. This table has been built tens of thousands of times and is loved the world over for it's basic material composition, simple clean lines, easy to build steps, and sturdy, functional size.  Our step by step plans with diagrams make it easy.

This plan uses pocket holes and is the updated plan.  We also have this plan available to build without pocket holes.

farmhouse table

Built by Hillary at The Friendly Home, we upgraded the farmhouse table for pocket hole joinery (no visibile fasteners) and easier construction.

Hillary made this table with pocket holes instead of adding the 2x2 supports as done in the original plan, saving a ton of cuts and holes to be drilled, which saves time and money.

Also, by using pocket holes, we hide most all of the screw holes, so a beautiful stained finish like Hillary's is very easy to do.

The easy to do pocket hole plan follows if you want to build this table.

And as always, Hillary delivers a beautiful finish, and you can get all the details on how Hillary finished her table here. I love the stain color and will have to try it as well!

PS - Don't have a pocket hole jig? Here's the original Farmhouse Table Plans.

PSS - Have trouble finding 4x4s? Check out this beginner friendly 2 Tool/$50 Farmhouse Table plans

Dimensions
farmhouse table plans
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 4 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long (breadboard ends)
  • 1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long
Common Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 posts @ 29" (legs)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 67" (long aprons)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 27" (short aprons)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 74" (stretcher)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 34" (stretcher supports)
  • 4 - 2x8 @ 70.5" (table top planks)
  • 1 - 2x10@ 70-1/2" (center table top plank -- I had to use one 2x10 to get the right overall width)
  • 2 - 2x8 ~38" (breadboard ends -- measure your joined tabletop before cutting these)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First, cut and notch out the 4x4s. If you can get your home improvement store to make square cuts, ask them to cut your 4x4s. Otherwise, you'll need a 12" (maybe a 10" will work too) miter saw or set your circular saw to the deepest possible cut. Cut one side, flip the 4x4 and finish the cut on the bottom side. Sand until cut is smooth. You'll probably add cork or felt pads under the legs later on to level table up and protect your floor.

Then notch out the stretcher joint as shown in diagram. Definitely practice first on a scrap if you can. This is easier to do than it looks - just be sure to get the top and bottom cut right, and it will all work out!

Step 2

Notch out the stretcher support board first, then attach to the 4x4s. Remember the screws will show here, so drill in pattern. Use 3" screws to attach.

Do both ends.

Step 3

Then add your top aprons with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill three holes per end apron.

Step 4

Now attach the two ends together to create your table frame.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill five holes per side apron.

Step 5

Attach base stretcher with pocket holes underneath.

Step 6

Now start building your tabletop.

Step 7

Measure and cut your breadboard ends to fit and attach to tabletop.

Step 8

Then attach the base to the tabletop through predrilled 1 1/2" pocket holes with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

robsayson

Wed, 04/22/2015 - 11:49

I built 3 of these already. The type of wood makes a huge difference. If you can find kiln dried wood, use those, otherwise any type of "green" wood will dry and cause the long table spans to warp. This will then break away from your breadboard ends. First one I made I used redwood from Lowes. It had very minimal shrinkage if any. Second one I made was from "green" wood. That one shrank more than an inch in width and I had to redo the breadboard ends, and will have to redo them again. So I went back to redwood on the third one. Cost is more with redwood and any kiln dried wood, but I think its really the best option for this type of table top with breadboard ends.

Keden

Mon, 01/19/2015 - 09:27

What is the best way to join and connect the top for indoor use and outdoor? Thanks!

geopalz

Tue, 03/17/2015 - 10:05

Hello I recently built this farmhouse table using these plans. Turned out terrific! However I had to comment so that hopefully I can save someone a little trouble. I used the 2 1/2 inch Kreg screws to assemble this table as instructed. Everything was fine until I attached to table top to the frame. The screws were too long and went through the table top. I had to back them out just a bit. If I ever build another one I will use the Kreg 2" screws to attach the table top. I don't now if anyone else has had that happen or not but I thought perhaps the plans could be changed or a note added to use the shorter screws to attach the top. Thanks and I hope this information is helpful.

spatria21

Tue, 04/12/2016 - 19:36

Same thing happened to me. On my next table I am going to set the kreg jig to 1 3/8 instead of 1 1/2. Besides that my table looks great. Another coat of poly and I'll post a Pic.

chadk

Wed, 10/21/2015 - 14:19

This is my first wood working project.  We (my father-in-law, who thank god has wood working skills) started working on the 6' version this past Saturday.  We had a tough time keeping the table top boards from bowing.  We used biscuits, wood glue and pocket holes.  Ultimately, we had to clamp the joined boards inbetween some scrap 4x4 to keep them straight.  So far so good, but has definitely added some time to the project.  Looking forward to seeing the finished product.  Enjoying your site.  Thanks Ana!  

kasimpkins

Sat, 11/14/2015 - 11:29

So I have looked everywhere and here in Southern California Southern Yellow Pine is nearly extinct! What should I use instead?! I want to build this ASAP for Thanksgiving so if anyone has any advice please share!!

jerkjake

Sat, 11/21/2015 - 13:30

The link for the information on how this was stained /finished does not work

 

Ryo316

Sat, 12/12/2015 - 15:24

I built this table a few days ago. I found that the ends needed more support so I used shelf angles to support it. I stained the top (maple hue and clear satin poly)and distressed the bottom ( black stain and satin poly). I would love to add a photo however I'm uncertain how to do that. It's a great size. Still deciding on spindle back or ladder back chairs.