4x4 Truss Beam Table

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 09/13/2018 - 10:03
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

Build the truss beam farmhouse table! Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

ana white truss beam table farm style

This beautiful solid wood table is sturdy and substantial.  Built using off the shelf lumber, we love the truss beam detailing and angled legs.  It's a beautiful table that will add that rustic look to your dining room.

We also have available the matching Truss beam bench plans

farm table benches

My friend Whitney from Shanty2Chic loved our Providence Table, but wanted a bigger version for indoor use, built using real 4x4 beams.

Here's from Whitney:

"Oh how I LOVE a great DIY dining table.  Restoration Hardware wants $3000 for theirs, and I built mine for around $100 in wood.  This table is big and beautiful, and I can't wait to serve my entire family at it!"

There's a ton of different ways this table could have been put together, but Whitney choose to use a Kreg Jig HD.  Because the 4x4 is so big, it won't fit in the jig, so Whitney's solution was to use a clamp.  

 

Whitney has provided lots more details on how she built this table and lots more pictures right here - please take a second to stop over and check it out!

 

And of course, the plans follow!

 

Enjoy!

XO Ana

Dimensions
truss beam table dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

5 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long or stud length

2 - 2x10 @ 12 feet long (tabletop boards - can be cut in half at store for easier transport)

1 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long (cut breadboards out of this board - can also use a 2x8 or 2x12)

Whitney used 2 1/2" Kreg HD Screws and a Kreg HD to build this table

You'll also need 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to put the tabletop together and to attach the tabletop to the aprons

Cut List

2 - 4x4 @ 35"

4 - 4x4 @ 25 3/8" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends ARE parallel)

2 - 4x4 @ 28 1/4" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends are NOT parallel)

2 - 4x4 @ 65"

2 - 4x4 @ 26 1/8" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends ARE parallel)

2 - 2x4 @ 65"

4 - 2x10 @ 68 1/2" (tabletop boards)

2 - 2x10 @ approx 37" (cut breadboard ends to fit)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build two of the leg sets out of the 4x4s. Once you get one built, built the other on top of it so they match perfectly.

Step 2

Attach the two legs together with the center beams.

Step 3

Position the cross supports inside the table and attach to the top and bottom beams.

Step 4

Add the 2x4 aprons underneath for added support.

NOTE: We kept these flat to keep the look the Shanty girls were after, but to make this table stronger (especially if you were modifying the table to be longer) I recommend attaching the 2x4s vertically instead of flat. If you go this route, make sure you predrill 1 1/2" pocket holes facing upward in the aprons to attach the tabletop in the next step.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Megs204

Mon, 02/22/2016 - 11:50

I love the idea of building a table so that it will be exactly the size I want.  I'm hoping to seat 10 people around it, so the interweb tells me it will need to be 120" long. Obviously the top will be longer as well as the center beams and aprons. How about the cross supports? Leave as is? Change the angle to make them longer?

 

lwinstone

Thu, 04/21/2016 - 11:56

How many chairs can sit at this current size of table? I would also like to fit 10 at the table, and was wondering how to change the plans to fit that accordingly. I am going to make this in a wood shop class.

gaddyzt

Thu, 06/23/2016 - 08:05

Where do you get your wood from for all of that material to only cost $150? Everything I find is way more expensive than that.

jeremysavoy

Wed, 09/07/2016 - 05:39

Just curious if jointing/planing  the table top boards so that it's completely flat and also so that there are no gaps between the boards (I have 4 kids 7 years old and under, lots of crumbs) would distract from the otherwise rustic / primitive appeal of this peice. Obviously you could still distress the top and round off the edges of the comleted top. I suppose one could joint/plane the entire project as well. Obviously this increases time and costs as you're likely not buying standard dimensional lumber, but that aside - thoughts?

billy78

Sat, 10/15/2016 - 23:34

I totally love this rustic table. Will make a great addition to our dining room! Thank you for the plans!

piper41955

Thu, 11/03/2016 - 22:51

The breadboard ends are supposed to be more than an asthetic detail - in practice they should allow the table top to expand/contract/move without cracking. This is normally done using more complex joinery, gluing and screwing the ends most likely defeats this entirely since the entire top would be held rigid.