Shoe Dresser
We used the shoe dresser instructions with some modifications to make it longer
We used the shoe dresser instructions with some modifications to make it longer
Super easy and fun project! We altered the original plans to build a loveseat and had zero issues. We did add some extra support below.
I did not find 25”x25” cushions within our price range so I settled for 25”x22.5” and they work but ultimately 25x25 works best.
"I don’t consider ourselves experts at all and your plan was so easy to follow. We can’t wait to introduce our chicks when they’re old enough to transfer outside."
We altered the original plan by enlarging the sandbox (approx 5' x 6') which made for wider benches that can comfortably seat an adult. The benches and back rests are three boards deep instead of two. We added 2x12 supports under the benches for additional support, as well as another 2x4 support in the middle of the backrest.
Tue, 04/14/2015 - 20:00
I just love seeing pictures of these built! Makes my heart swell :-)
Night Stand
The concept of hidden boot storage at the back is genius!!! I knew as soon as I saw your plan that I needed that in this space! Thank you so much for what you do!
Fri, 01/22/2021 - 11:42
May I ask how you would assemble if you wanted the hinge in the back as in this picture?
Thank you.
Wed, 08/25/2021 - 04:51
Hello, can you tell me how to find the plans for the Mudroom Closet makeover? I’m interested in doing the one pictured on this page.
Thank you
Modified from our twin sleeper chair plan, this amazing hinged sofa bed was built and shared by #tinybuilderau
I modified the Small Old English Style Farmhouse Dining Table plan to build a writing desk. I used five 1x6 boards for the top for a width of 27.5 inches. I made my desk 56 inches in length. I put the drawer on the long side like a pencil drawer. I did use the legs that Ana recommended in the plan. I love how it turned out. I used dark walnut danish oil and dark wax for the finish.
Sat, 08/31/2019 - 05:18
Beautiful! What are the brands of oil and wax that you used?
Fri, 10/04/2019 - 21:46
Thank you! I used Watco Danish oil and I used Minwax dark wax. I've tried alot of different wax brands and I always come back to Minwax. It dries the hardest in my opinion.
I really liked the PB mega desk, but I didn't want to spend $1600 on it. After seeing someone's post here (a couple years ago...) asking for plans on that desk, I decided to do it myself. I took these two plans and made 4 base units. They are 18" square at the top and 34" tall. I used 2 IKEA table tops connected underneath for the top, to make a total height of 36" - counter stool height. I constructed them a little differently than the plans, but no matter how you make them, the idea is the same. The plan is to take them apart and make 2 desks once everyone is too old and cool to do homework/artwork together.
Mon, 03/16/2015 - 20:39
this is really awesome! What a cool work area :)
Sun, 08/02/2015 - 11:39
Where did you get the chairs to complete your project? And how much were they?
Sat, 08/15/2015 - 04:33
Just seeing your comment...sorry for the delay! I got the stools and the light fixture at a Ballard Backroom (outlet) store near me. 3 of the stools ended up being about $40 each with the sale they had at the time, and the 4th was $60? - bought at a later time than the first 3.
Sun, 08/30/2015 - 13:54
Could we get more detail on how this was built? The base units, for instance.
Thanks!
Wed, 11/04/2015 - 07:40
How did you connect the table tops from the bottom so that the tables were secure together? I'm curious what's the best way to do this. Since two of the four seats will be where the seam is, I want to make sure I secure it properly so it's not wobbly. Thanks so much.
Sat, 01/09/2016 - 05:06
I'm just seeing these latest comments for the first time, so you may have long finished this project already! The tops were surprisingly sturdy but I did reinforce them. I placed the tops on the floor upside down and screwed some metal brackets (about 12" long each) across the joint in four places. I just screwed them in through holes already in the brackets. This wasn't the most stable because those tops are particle board and don't hold screws very well... But since it was already pretty sturdy, I figured it would do. It has been fine, even with standing on the top (kids who get up there and me hanging the light fixture above).
Once the tops were joined, I placed the bases so there was about a 1" overhang on the top. To hold the top in place, I used small pieces of wood screwed to the underside of the top at the inside corner to act as a placement stop. The top is pretty big and heavy even though they are IKEA tops, so they don't have a tendency to move or slide at all anyway. I'm going to try to figure out how to post another picture of the braces and corner stops...we'll see if I can do it! Let me know if you have any more questions...again, sorry I didn't see this in a more timely manner!
Sat, 01/02/2016 - 05:55
Is the photo above the Pottery Barn version or your product result? I'm trying to figure out the dimensions for the drawer and shelf configurations. Thanks! BTW, I'm totally addicted to your style and personality...my husband loves the productivity inspiration I've received. :-)
Sat, 01/09/2016 - 10:17
Hi!
I'm glad you like the desk! The one in the picture is the one I built, not the pottery barn one! My dimensions were a good bit different than the PB desk - square bases instead of rectangular and counter stool height instead of desk/table height. So, I have no idea if I have my plans for this anymore, so I went and measured it again for you!
So each base is 18" x 18" square and 34" high so that with the 2" top the total height is 36".
Each base was made of oak plywood that made with 3 sides, a top and a bottom. All edges were rabbit joints (3/8" deep in thickness of boards and probably 3/8" wide - not 100% on width of rabbits). It's kind of a pain to do rabbit joints if you don't have a dado blade for your table saw, so you could use pocket hole screws instead. I glued and nailed these joints with a finish nailer, I believe.
I figured a diagram with measurements would be easier than trying to write descriptions...so I'm adding another pic with the dimensions outlined. Drawing is NOT to scale, so sorry about that! I really need to learn to use SketchUp. Let me know if you have any questions!
Sat, 01/09/2016 - 07:57
Hi!
I'm glad you like the desk! The one in the picture is the one I built, not the pottery barn one! My dimensions were a good bit different than the PB desk - square bases instead of rectangular and counter stool height instead of desk/table height. So, I have no idea if I have my plans for this anymore, so I went and measured it again for you!
So each base is 18" x 18" square and 34" high so that with the 2" top the total height is 36".
Each base was made of oak plywood that made with 3 sides, a top and a bottom. All edges were rabbit joints (3/8" deep in thickness of boards and probably 3/8" wide - not 100% on width of rabbits). It's kind of a pain to do rabbit joints if you don't have a dado blade for your table saw, so you could use pocket hole screws instead. I glued and nailed these joints with a finish nailer, I believe.
I figured a diagram with measurements would be easier than trying to write descriptions...so I'm adding another pic with the dimensions outlined. Drawing is NOT to scale, so sorry about that! I really need to learn to use SketchUp. Let me know if you have any questions!
Wed, 06/22/2016 - 15:26
Can you buy the bases from ikea? or did you build them from scratch?
Thu, 07/28/2016 - 14:13
No you can't buy them from Ikea. I bought the table tops from Ikea, but I built the bases. The dimensions for the bases are in one of the additional pictures with the post if you want to see them!
Mon, 10/10/2016 - 07:41
What are the total dimensions of the table top? Thinking of building something like this, but want to make sure it will fit in my space.
This was just a standard BBQ with an attached folding table. I used a combo of Ana's plans to add a little character and style to the BBQ and it made a huge difference in not only the BBQ, but also the backyard.
Mon, 05/23/2016 - 12:29
Hello: Very interested in which plans you used to build the BBQ Built In. Thank you.
Wed, 06/08/2016 - 09:22
Hello dbryant1977, please share the plans. Also, what's brand/model of BBQ? Very nice.
Thu, 04/09/2020 - 18:27
This is my guess on the plans used! https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/diy-grill-island-featuri…
Fri, 08/30/2019 - 09:50
Are there plans for this project or at least some pictures from while you were building it?
Thu, 04/09/2020 - 18:27
This is my guess on the plans used! https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/diy-grill-island-featuri…
Wed, 04/22/2020 - 15:52
Can you provide us with the plans for this? I would love to build one.
Mon, 03/04/2024 - 14:49
Hello: Very interested in which plans you used to build the BBQ Built In. Thank you.
We needed a way to get all of the lawn & garden stuff out of our garage and organized. I found Ana's plans for the Small Cedar Shed & adjusted them to fit our space. We used 2x4s as our studs & added front walls on the sides. Our shed measures 9.5'x30". We had a concrete slab poured for our foundation. We are experienced DIYer's but had never taken on a project of this scale from scratch. This project was much easier than I was anticipating, and we were able to complete it in one weekend! Similar shed kits were way more expensive and not the size that we were looking for. Thank you so much for the inspiration!
The wife has a hard time bending down so she wanted pedestals for the washer and dryer. The metal ones with a drawer were too tall. I showed her Sausha's and she really loved that design. I basically used the same construction plans idea from Sausha's project and some tips from Ryan's brag post. But, I wanted to beef it up some. I didn't like the L-bracket to attach the top and 4X4 legs. It didn't seem sturdy enough for me. I used my table saw to square the edges on the 4X4 posts and the 2X6 rails. Then I used my Kreg jig and glued and screwed everything together. I liked Ryan's trim ideas, so I used baseboard trim for the bottom and flipped it for the top trim. I made a 1/2" lip so if it were to vibrate, the washer/dryer would not fall. I put the trim on the bottom of the legs and was considering putting on the top but I put some different trim all the way around the bottom of the 2X6 rails. The wife liked that. I also added some carpet on the top to cut down on vibration and to help keep the units in place. I also put some 4X4 pieces of carpet on the bottom to keep the noise down and to help in moving it. I primed and used an gravity sprayer to paint it. Then I put 3 coats of polyacrylic to help in cleaning and to cut down on scratches from the laundry baskets.
Wed, 06/29/2016 - 14:31
I think you could probably drive a truck on top of yours. :) I was a bit concerned about the strength of the construction when I first decided to build it, but I decided that since it would be stationary once I have it in place and the only force would be straight down, it would be fine. Once I got it put together, it was actually sturdier than I thought it was going to be...from a horizontal force perspective. Virtically, that thing could hold 100 washer/dryer pairs...the plywould would give out before the 2x4s and 4x4s would even budge.
Anyway, nice work! I love the Kreg Jig...I need one of those.
Sun, 01/29/2017 - 16:23
Great looking build, thanks for the detailed photos!
My wife saw something like this on Pinterest and desperately wanted one. The one she saw was hexagonal in shape. We didn't need as many swings so we went with just a plain square shape. We used 6x6s for the legs and posts across the top and used 4x4s for the angled support pieces. We built the swings using the plan from this website. All the materials can be picked up at the blue and orange stores. However when it came to the springs for the swings, the blue store was 1/3 of the price of HD. The legs are 12' long and buried 4' under the ground and cemented in for strength. Luckily I am retired military and was able to rent an auger for 1/2 the price of HD or the blue store. You could do it by hand but it saved us hours and lots of back pain. We found our dimensions for the size we wanted and spray painted dots on the ground where the posts were going to go. We dug the holes and stuffed the 6x6s in them. Using a post level we made sure they were plum. We braced them and added the quickrete and left them to setup over night. The next day we had to make sure all the tops were level with each other. This is where having some knowledge of physics paid off. I took clear tubing and screwed it above the height that I wanted on one post and then screwed the other end to another post. Fill it with water until the water level on the first post is where I wanted it (8 feet high) and it will automatically fill it level on the other end. There is a picture of this above. Water will always level itself out. I had to do this because my yard is at a slight down hill grade. We marked it and cut the tops off to make it level. After attaching the 6x6s on the top with 8" lag bolts it was time to paint. After painting was done we built 3 swings from Ana's plans. We shortened them by 6" to give room to walk between the legs and the swings. All in all it was a great project that only took two dedicated weekends. My wife still has to paint the swings though.
Wed, 05/27/2015 - 07:42
How did you attach the 6x6's to the top? Is it a miter cut at 45 degrees and then put together with the lag bolts. I'm kinda confused. Thanks.
Wed, 05/27/2015 - 22:38
It sounds and looks like the top 6x6s are mitered and sit on top of the end of the vertical posts. I'd say at least one lag bolt each way to hold the mitered corner together and then at least one in each piece down into the vertical to hold it in place.
Sun, 07/19/2015 - 16:26
I have looked at several versions including the hexagon pergola's, but this is exactly what we want. Do you have plans that you can email me? [email protected]
Sun, 04/19/2020 - 12:33
If you recurved plans can you please send to me?
[email protected]
Sun, 04/19/2020 - 12:33
If you recurved plans can you please send to me?
[email protected]
Wed, 04/29/2020 - 16:18
I was looking for material list and plans if you have any please send to [email protected] thanks
Mon, 04/27/2020 - 10:24
WOW, LOVE!!! This is simply gorgeous! What a warm and welcoming addition to your yard. And thanks for sharing your method of finding level for your posts on your sloped yard. I absolutely love it!
Thu, 10/22/2020 - 06:53
Love this, can you please email me the plans @ [email protected]
Fri, 03/26/2021 - 05:58
This is beautiful. Would love to see the plans for this. How small can it be made?
This was an easy project to complete in an afternoon that does not require any advance woodworking skills
Wed, 11/26/2014 - 12:19
This project looks even better than mine! I love look with paint! Well done!
Wed, 12/10/2014 - 09:41
This is my second completed project with plans and ideas from your website. Thanks for your good work!
A frame chicken coop with a few modifications- metal roof, insulation and slightly larger second floor.
By Chrystal
Ana your plans are amazing- here’s how mine turned out, I love it
Arlene
Basically I took Ana's plan and tweaked it to create a diy sofa, a love seat, and a corner piece to make a sectional. All 3 pieces have the same basic design and function (they all have a storage compartment), although the corner piece, because of its placement and the thickness of the seating cushions, doesn't open unless the couch is opened first. We purchased custom cut, 6" thick foam cushions for the seats (we bought the XL-38 foam from https://www.buyfoam.com/, but if we had to do it again, we'd go with the XL-28 as the 38 is VERY firm). We also used upholstery fabric instead of a paint drop-cloth to cover the couches. The foam and upholstery fabric upped the overall cost significantly. Other changes from Ana's plan, I used 15/32" OSB because the 1/4" plywood just felt too flimsy (I'm a large guy). I also added I bolts to the underside of the seat before the foam and upholstery so I could add a stress relief rope to prevent the kids from opening the top and dropping it and ripping out the hinges. I used piano hinges as they seemed to me to provide the most support. Finally, I ended up using 1x2s for the base trim since I couldn't find any 2x2s that were straight and finish-ready, then I added router detailing to provide some visual interest. I used 3" pieces of 4x6 for the feet and added matching router detail. Additionally, I used T-Nuts and bolts to make the feet and base trim completely removable.
Mon, 08/17/2020 - 07:46
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Fabulous home gym by Nailgun Nelly!
*Incorporated and modified the grand waterfall console plan
This project was made from reclaimed wood from my office where they had built a temporary safety railing out of 2x4s and 2x6s. I added a compartment for storage. The top is stained in a classic grey. I painted the body in black followed by white. I then sanded the body to allow the black to bleed through for a distressed look.
I told the love of my life about how Ana had a really cool laundry basket shelf, and asked her if she wanted one. Of course she said yes, so I made her one! I added a few twists to mine as you can tell, but the actual shelf itself is completely from her design!
Our old screen door wasn't cutting it anymore, so I built a new one, and to kill two birds with one stone, I included a built-in dog door. Now I just need to find the motivation to close off the old dog door.
I have the plans to build this screen door with a built-in dog door posted via the blog link below for anyone interested.