So I've been building items from Ana's site since this spring. I've managed a few different projects, but I've been ripping plywood lengthwise with a circular saw a a jig I made following instructions someone posted from the popular mechanics website. BUT
I got a table saw the other day and for the life of me I can't figure out how to do this or to cross cut the strips afterwards. I get stuck every time trying to figure out how to manage to make sure that I cut square when the widths/lengths of the boards are bigger than the "deck" of the table saw and I don't have anything to but it up against to keep the wood going into to the blade straight.
Can anyone out there help/tell me how they do it?
Thanks
Carrie
Dan K
Wed, 01/12/2011 - 14:10
Many people use a jigsaw or circular saw to break down sheets of plywood into more manageable pieces. Smaller "homeowner" size table saws aren't intended for creating large panels. A larger saw with longer fence rails will allow you to rip bigger pieces. I would recommend building a straightedge guide to use with a circular saw. Not only will it cut straighter than freehanding cuts on the tablesaw it is much safer. Freehanding cuts is an invitation for injury. If at all possible I would return the table saw and get a decent quality circular saw with 40 tooth blade.
OkieJoe
Thu, 01/13/2011 - 05:22
Carrie,
Maybe I'm not understanding your question, but I agree w/Dan that trying to break down a full sheet of plywood on the tablesaw is asking for problems, unless you have help or some specialized equipment. I have a full sized SawStop w/a 52" outfeed table, and I still use the circ saw w/a jig to rough out the cuts before I use the tablesaw to cut to final size. As far as ripping big pieces, not a full sheet, I just set the fence to the desired width, and run the piece through. Be sure you are using all the guards, etc. that came w/the saw, some kind of push stick to keep your fingers away from the blade, and I use a roller to catch the wood as it comes off the table after the cut. Cross-cutting large pieces on the table saw can be problematic, but I built a panel sled like this one: http://www.popularwoodworking. I also like a very similar sled at the newwoodworker.com website. I was cleaning out my inbox this morning and found this: http://www.kregtool.com/files/.....uary11.asp that might also be of some benefit to you.
woodchip
Wed, 01/19/2011 - 14:52
Carrie,
The safest way to cross cut smaller pieces of wood (cut across the grain instead of along it) is to use a mitre gauge without using the fence. If you use both your mitre gauge and the fence on your table saw together, you are "double fencing" which means that you are blocking the wood in place against two surfaces - in the event of kickback, there is nowhere for the wood to go except to ricochet back at you.
If you are cross cutting shorter pieces (this will be unsuccesful with pieces much longer than about 4') that are wider than they are long (cutting through the long side of your rectangle), move the fence out of the way and slide the mitre gauge into the slot in the surface of the table. Make sure it is set to 0 degrees (90 degrees to the blade), keep your thumbs behind the mitre gauge, and push the wood across the blade keeping it tight against the mitre gauge while you push. If there are slots in the top edge of your mitre gauge, you can screw a piece of plywood to it to use as a longer face to push with - just make sure the ply you use for the face doesn't have a bend in it - you want to make sure that the piece you are cutting will remain perpendicular to the blade and not twist back along the bent face, as this will cause kickback.
Hope this all makes sense!
Carrie R
Sat, 01/22/2011 - 08:03
Thanks everyone for your advice. For some reason I thought people were ripping plywood in strips using the table saw. Don't know what made me think that. LOL I'll keep using my circular saw and jig.
:-)
bhoppy
Mon, 01/24/2011 - 15:18
I bought a special "plywood" blade for a circular saw to keep it from splitting. It was less than 4$ from harbor frieght and worked like a charm. I tried to freehand the first piece and realized it was a disaster and then I did as Dan suggested and clamped a straight board up against the saw's edge and it also worked beautifully! Good luck!
claydowling
Fri, 02/04/2011 - 10:29
This series of articles may be helpful for you: http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/index.html
He a constant tinkerer who is always improving his tools. Unfortunately, you need a pretty big table saw before it's suitable for breaking down sheet goods.
This is the type of saw that makes it practical: http://www.jetwilton.com/us/ma.....egory=7321
This is the type of saw that makes it safe: http://grizzly.com/products/G0588
You'll notice the price points. But from what I'm told, the sliding table saws really improve accuracy and shop efficiency. If you were building custom cabinets for people, it would pay for itself in a hurry.