3 Drawer Dresser or Baby Changing Table

small dresser plans changing table
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Free plans to build a dresser or changing table (with topper!) from Ana-White.com - this beautiful little dresser is perfect as a changing table too.  Step by step plans with diagrams, shopping list, cut list and lots of reader submitted photos.

Why We Built This Dresser

My friend Whitney from Shanty2Chic needed a baby shower gift.  Since buying a $1000 changing table was just too much, Whitney DIYed a new changing table with three large drawers!

 

Here's from Whitney from Shanty2Chic:

"I love my latest furniture build I am sharing today.  My first babysitter I used with my oldest three girls has grown up and is now having a baby of her own.  I thought it would be so fun and very full circle to make her a changing table for the baby!  She wanted drawer space and something that would work as a dresser after she was out of diapers.  I found great inspiration on Pottery Barn Kids and teamed up with my sweet friend Miss Ana White to build her this changing table!  The cost was just around $200 which is way better than the $1000 they were asking for theirs!"

 

More Photos and Build Post

But before we get to the plans, please take a second to READ MORE about building this changing table or dresser, and see lots more photos and finishing details over at Shanty2Chic.

 

Free Plans to Build 3 Drawer Dresser or Changing Table

Dimensions
dresser dimensions or changing table
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - 1x10 @ 10 feet long (for drawer faces)
  • 26 feet (I'd buy a little more to be safe) of 1x6 for drawer boxes
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x3s @ 8 feet long (for topper - can also use 1x4s here)
  • 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood
  • 1 sheet of 1/4" plywood
  • 36 feet of moudling for drawer faces/top edge and bottom edge
  • 3 sets 16" euro style drawer slides
  • 6 knobs
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws
  • 1" and 1-1/4" brad nails
  • wood filler or edge banding to finish plywood edges
Cut List
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood 18" x 32 3/4" (sides)
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood 18" x 40" (top)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 38 1/2" (footers)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 38 1/2" (top supports and between drawer face supports)
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 40" x 33 1/2"

DRAWERS 

  • 6 - 1x6 @ 16" (sides)
  • 6 - 1x6 @ 36" (front/back)
  • 3 - 1/4" plywood @ 16" x 37 1/2" (bottoms)
  • 3 - 1x10 @ 38 1/4" (drawer faces)

TOPPER

  • 3 - 1x3 @ 16"
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 39"
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start by attaching the sides to the top. I definitely recommend 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws here - the joint is just so much better and is hidden and so much easier to make - and since this project doesn't have a face frame, it will help keep the project square. If you are cutting out the base, take a second to jigsaw the sides out now. NOTE: For a stained finish, you will want to add edge banding to the front edges of the sides before assembly.

Step 2

Then add the front and back supports along the base. We could have done a bottom shelf instead, but that adds a ton of weight and extra material, so I went this route with the plans.

Step 3

Now attach the top trim - this one just adds a little decoration and a little extra support on top.

Step 4

These guys go between the drawers so when you look at the project from the front, there's no air gaps in between. Also, they hold the drawers in place when installed.

Step 5

Build the drawer boxes and install - here is a video tutorial showing how

Step 6

Drawers need to be installed inset 3/4" to allow for the drawer face, installed in the lowest possible position above the 1x2s. Use a square to help you install the cabinet members.

Step 7

Attach drawer faced to fronts of drawers, allowing for a 1/4" gap in between drawers. You can use a nailer and 1-1/4" finish nails to attach, then open the drawer and add a few screws from the inside. Another tip is to install the knobs first so you don't have to drill through double thickness for the drawer fronts (as most knobs only have a bolt designed for 3/4" thick drawer faces). Dress the drawers up with trim or moulding if desired.

Step 8

The back could have been installed at any time, but I like to leave it off until after the drawers are installed just to make reaching inside easier. The down side is the back does help keep the project square - so if your project is not square, it may make sense to put the back on earlier (around step 3).

Step 9

Trim the top and bottom edges out to add interest and cover exposed plywood edges on bottom. If you are using a shaped moulding, you will need miter the corners.

Step 10

The topper is a piece of cake! Changing pads can vary in length, so make sure you build to suit your topper.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

DecorSanity

Wed, 11/06/2013 - 11:58

Great details on the drawer fronts, above the base, and the cut-outs on the base. This is a very versatile dresser plan!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!