Barn Door

Difficulty
Intermediate
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Make barn style door! Free DIY plan from Ana-White.com

Thank you everyone for your positive feedback on my greenhouse!  I can't tell you how excited we are to have a greenhouse!

I just had to share the plans with you a couple weeks back, knowing some of you may be needing a greenhouse as well.  And today, I am circling back around to show you a few projects we added to the greenhouse, including the door.

But first, I wanted to show off my garden!!!

Yep, those are my $10 Cedar Raised Garden Beds!!!!  This is the third year I have used them for my gardens, and they are holding up very well with no damage, rotting, or warping.  

Since building these beds a few years back, we have do no work on the raised beds themselves - just tilling the soil up with a shovel every spring and putting the plants in the beds.

I had wanted raised beds for a while, but they can cost hundreds of dollars a bed - multiply that by say 10 or 20 beds .... and you are talking thousands of dollars!  By using cedar fence pickets, we were able to afford a tidy raised bed garden.

I especially love that I'm not covered in dirt after working in the garden.  As summer progresses, grass - though patchy and neglected - fills in between the beds giving us a clean place to work on the garden.  The raised beds perform really well, raised from the cool earth and in the sun.  

If you haven't already built these raised beds, the plans are here and I highly recommend you giving them a shot - with the nailgun at least!!!

We ended up moving the greenhouse next to the raised beds, where Grace's playhouse was.  We moved Grace's playhouse to the front yard (I'll be posting about that as soon as we finish up that project) away from the moose that love our gardens so much.  For those of you asking, the Greenhouse can be moved - we moved it by hand with help from neighbors and also moved it by trailer with just the Ram and Grandpa Tim.

And then they were so kind to go inside the greenhouse and square off an area for planting.  Because the greenhouse is not outside, we used scrap plywood leftover from the Momplex for the beds and then just staked with 2x2s.

The greenhouse doorway is JUST big enough to fit a wheelbarrow through.  And no bigger.

We had some leftover chicken wire from building the chicken coop that the Ram put up on the back wall for the cukes to climb.

And then Grace and I planted the beds.

Can't wait for fresh vegetables!

But there is one more thing that needs to be done to finish this greenhouse.

We need a door!  

So I drew up a plan - see follows - and we put this door in.  We actually framed the doorway itself with 2x6s just to try to keep the doorway as square as possible

And then put a 1x2 door stop inside the 2x6.  By putting a door stop in, this gives the door a clean spot to stop AND it enables you to make your door up to 1" less in width and 1/2" less in height than the opening without seeing huge daylight cracks through the door.  By having the wiggle room, we hope we avoid a sticking greenhouse door, if you know what I mean.

The door is working great and opens and closes very smoothly.  We are very happy with it.

And now comes the VERY hard part.

What color to paint. 

Grace and I like pink.  Of course we do.

But we would possibly compromise with red.

Or turquoise.

And it is, afterall, a GREENhouse ....

What color do you think I should paint that door?

Or should I just leave it up to mother nature?

Preparation

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

FRAME
2 - 1x6 @ 21 1/2"
1 - 1x12 @ 21 1/2"
2 - 1x3 @ 78"
1 - 1x3 @ 44 3/8" (long point to short point, ends are parallel, both ends cut at 25 degrees off square)
2 - 1x3 @ 22 1/8" - (one end at 40 degrees off square, other end at 25 degrees off square, ends in OPPOSITE directions, longest point measurement)

BACK
2 - 1x2 @ 78"
1 - 1x3 @ 23 1/2"
1 - 1/2" exterior plywood piece @ 55" x 23 1/2"

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

For this door, we built the frame with a Kreg Jig, and then attached plywood to the back. Measure your overall opening first and build to suit your opening.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Marlene S (not verified)

Thu, 06/07/2012 - 14:00

Why not the same color as the chair? That would look sweet! OR paint the inside of the door with the pink/purpl-ish color and the frame of the door and the cross pieces the color of the chair. or vice versa....
BUT if you just seal it so it doesn't ruin in the weather, It will match all the beams on the inside of the greenhouse! See, I'm seriously no help today!

MoeWest (not verified)

Thu, 06/07/2012 - 21:01

I think turquoise looks great with the lime green chair. Have you seen those bags for growing plants upside down, tomatoes for example? You could hang some from the rafters in your greenhouse.

PedroA (not verified)

Fri, 06/08/2012 - 01:34

Since the wood is different, both on the door itself and in the stock greenhouse wood, then I'd have to say paint it, definitely (even if I am usually a natural-look fan).

I prefer the gray, it also goes better with the metallic bottoms, but... Looking like a barn, the 'traditional' red also looks good.

These are also two colors that 'hide' dirt well, which may be a bonus in a greenhouse... ;)

Periwinkle (not verified)

Fri, 06/08/2012 - 07:36

I like the green. I see I am the only one so far. But it works nicely with the lime chair. I also thought of simply matching the chair. But I think I like your green better.

shastacoke

Fri, 06/08/2012 - 09:07

I love the purple-pink or the green. I so wish I had a yard so I could grow my own herbs and veggies. This looks great!!!

Michelle P (not verified)

Sat, 06/09/2012 - 09:22

I love the green house! And the turquoise door looks great. It gives the bold contrast that still blends nicely with the outdoors, the greenery and your garden. Very pretty!

Mpnetadj (not verified)

Sat, 06/09/2012 - 22:24

Love the pink or turquoise! Never knew a greenhouse could be so adorable. Leave it up to Ana to rock the greenhouse!

Cathy T (not verified)

Mon, 06/11/2012 - 09:46

I vote for Red or Green....leaning toward Green. Love your garden. I really need to get to work on my raised bed planters. Our temp today is supposed to be 98 with a heat index of 105...so I'm probably past doing much planting for Summer. But I can be ready for a Fall garden (one of the percs of hot Texas weather!).

ijensen (not verified)

Thu, 06/14/2012 - 10:23

Your greenhouse is the BEST I have seen around. And you are so kind to share the very detailed instructions with us. I am dreaming of getting one just like it built....but we will see. I seriously love you "get'er done" attitude!!!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!