Benchmark Pedestal Base Octagon Table

round farmhouse table
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Build your own farmhouse style pedestal table for about $110!  Perfect for a breakfast nook or family dining room. Use an octagon top or circular top.  Free plans for large octagon table with pedestal base and truss supports from

farmhouse round dining table with metal chairs
octagon top farmhouse table

Reader submitted photos by Vlilly and Shanty2Chic.

From Shanty2Chic:

I’m so excited about this table.  We just moved into our new home and because I knew that I would want to build new furniture for this house, we decided to sell our old furniture instead of moving it.  This table is the very first piece of furniture that I have built for our new house and it was very quick and easy!  It may look a little intimidating, with all of the angle cuts, but if you have the right tools it’s a piece of cake! 

I was not only surprised at how quick it was to put together but I was SHOCKED by the price tag - $110 for a table that will seat 6!!  I love how great it fits in my breakfast nook, we really needed a round table for the space and Ana nailed it with the octagon shape! It makes such a statement in our home!  


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Benchmark Pedestal Base Octagon Table

dimensions for round farmhouse table
Dimensions shown above


Shopping List

7 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long (cut longest first)

2- 2x2 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x8 @ 6 feet long

1 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long

2 - 2x3 @ 8 feet long screws and nails

Cut List


  • 4 - 1x6 @ 5-1/4" (long point measurment, one end cut at 30 degree bevel)
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 18-1/2" (long point measurmenet, one end cut at 30 degree bevel)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 18-1/8" (long point measurmenet, one end cut at 45 degree bevel)
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 16-1/8" 1 - 1x6 @ 44" (long point measurmenet, both ends cut at 30 degree bevel)
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 43-1/8" (long point measurmenet, both ends cut at 45 degree bevel)
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 39-1/8"


  • 2 - 1x8 @ 27-3/4"
  • 1 - 1x8 @ 5-1/2" (cut to width of 1x6s)
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 24"
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 23 1/4"
  • 1 - 2x8 @ 52"



  • 4 - 1x6 @ 56-1/2"
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 56-1/2" CUT TO FIT!!! (long point to long point, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 45-1/2" CUT TO FIT!!! (long point to long point, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 34-1/2" CUT TO FIT!!! (long point to long point, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
  • CUT 2x2 trim pieces to fit
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Start by building the two shorter feet - use glue when nailing.

Step 2

Then attach to uprights that make up the pedestal.

Step 3

You'll want the center of the pedestal to sit on the floor, so that's why we do this. Attach the two shorter feet pieces together.

Step 4

Now build the longer, continuous leg piece that makes up the remaining two feet.

Step 5

Step 6

And then attach the remaining pedestal pieces.

Step 7

Build the top support base and attach to top of pedestal.

Step 8

Build your tabletop - cut each angled piece to fit.

Step 9

Trim the tabletop out with 2x2s, and then attach the top to the base.

Step 10

Add the cross supports underneath. If you saw won't cut a 55 degree bevel, you can alter the bevel down to what your saw will cut (ie 40/50 or 45/45 instead of the 35/55). And that's it!!!

Step 11

For more details on the finish, more photos, and for building tips, please visit Ashley at Shanty2Chic.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.


Lady Goats

Wed, 02/26/2014 - 14:26

I think it's BRILLIANT how you planned this, Ana! And great build, Ashley! Simply mah-veh-lus, dah-lings!


Thu, 02/27/2014 - 10:54

I was just researching how to go about building a poker table for my son and voila! This is absolutely perfect and beautiful. Thank you so much for the plans!!


Sun, 04/19/2015 - 06:24

late reply, but as I'm building this now I figured I'd post for anyone else still wondering. The 2x3 pieces seem to be for the angled supports between the base and the top


Tue, 07/30/2019 - 22:41

Hello. Did you plain and ran the boards through the jointer for a straight edge? I'm planning on building this table just wondering if i should do it or not as it will change the boards dimensions. Thanks 


Tue, 08/13/2019 - 14:14

Does anyone know why the width of the table is 55" but the length is shown as 56 1/2" in one drawing and 56 3/4" in another? I assume it would be OK to make the table 55" in both length and width.