Captains Bed with Trundle Bed

captains bed with trundle pulled out
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Build your own captains bed with trundle and storage drawers!  Spend a couple hundred instead of a couple thousands!  Choose your own finish and hardware.

Step by step plans include over 15 diagrams, detailed shopping list and cut list.  Free plans by Ana-White.com

captains bed with trundle

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Captains Bed with Trundle Bed

 

Dimensions
captains bed with trundle twin size dimensions diagram
Twin size mattress, trundle mattress

Preparation

Shopping List

6 - 2" caster wheels (50 pound load rating minimum)

3 - 18" drawer slides

9 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

1- 2x2 @ 8 feet long

5 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long

4 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 @ 10 feet long 

10 - 1x4 or 1x3 @ 8 feet long (used for slats)

1 - 1/4" plywood sheet used for end panels and drawer bottoms

100 - 1-1/4" pocket hole screws

70 - 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws like these

8 - 2-1/2" pocket hole screws

200 - 1-1/4" brad nails

50 - 3/4" brad nails

wood glue

5 - handles or pulls

33" x 72" trundle mattress (sometimes called a "sleeper sofa bed mattress)

38" x 75" standard twin mattress 

Cut List

ENDS

  • 6 - 2x4 @ 36-3/4" - legs and ladder legs
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 34" - bottom
  • 3 - 1x6 @ 34" - top rails
  • 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 34" x 15" - end panels
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 15" - ladder rungs
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 9-1/2" - top rails on ladder side
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 13" - top trim ladder side
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 41" - top trim end without ladder

 

SIDES/CENTER

  • 4 - 2x4 @ 75" - drawer support framing
  • 8 - 2x4 @ 9-1/2" - drawer support framing
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 75" - siderails
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 75" - top trim, siderails
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 34" - drawer support rails
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 34" - drawer support rails, ends
  • 10 - 1x4 @ 38" - bed slats

 

TRUNDLE

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 73" - trundle supports
  • 10 1x4 @ 33" - slats
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 33" - ends
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 74-1/2" - back
  • 1 - 1x10 @ 74-1/2" - front

 

DRAWERS - ASSUMES OPENING OF 23" and 1/2" clearance drawer slides

  • 6 - 1x6 @ 18" - drawer sides
  • 6 - 1x6 @ 22" - drawer front/back
  • 3 - 1/4" plywood @ 18" x 22" - drawer bottom
  • 3 - 1x10 @ 22-3/4" - drawer face
Cutting Instructions

Cut the longest cuts first to make sure you get those cuts before cutting smaller pieces

DO NOT cut boards in half for transport - cut according to cut list

Cut 1x and 2x boards with a compound miter saw (recommended) or a circular saw with straight edge.

Plywood needs to be cut with a circular saw or tablesaw.  

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

The finished bed will be large in size and may not fit through a door opening.  You may wish to build in pieces, finish pieces that are exposed in final product, then move into the room for final assembly

Instructions

Step 1

Drill two 3/4" pocket hole son each end of the 1x6 boards.  Drill three on ends of 1x10.

Attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws to the 2x4 legs, flush on inside, pocket holes on inside.

Step 2

Glue and nail 1/4" plywood to end panels.  

Step 3

Cut ladder top legs at angle with circular saw or miter saw - shown with 30 degree angle.  Leave 3/4" at top flat.

Build ladder with 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws.

Attach from back with 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws.

Step 4

Drill 3/4" pocket holes on ONE end of the small 1x6 pieces.  Attach to 2x4 legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Attach to top of ladder with 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws.

This completes the two end panels.  Finish the entire end panels as desired.

Step 5

Build two identical drawer support frames as shown - the must match exactly for the drawer slides to slide correctly.

Use 2-1/2" self tapping screws or 2-1/2" pocket hole screws to build.

Step 6

Paint or stain the 2x4 drawer frames and the 1x6 side rails.

Drill two 3/4" pocket holes into each end of the 1x6s.  

For the bottom siderails, also drill a few 3/4" pocket holes facing downward to attach to the 2x4s on install.

Attach 1x6 to the ends with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Attach 2x4 drawer framing to end panels with 2-1/2" wood screws.

Attach bottom 1x6 siderail to the 2x4s with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Attach drawer rails to insides of 2x4s with pocket hole screws - use 3/4" setting and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws for 1x material, use 1-1/2" setting and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws for 2x materials.

*Some parts missing to enable a better view of interior of bed

Step 8

IMPORTANT: Check bed for square.  Take diagonal measurements from opposite outside corners and adjust until both diagonals match.

Cut 1x2 trim boards to fit and nail and glue to top of bed.

Step 9

Check for square.  Add bed slats and nail or screw down.

Nails are less expensive and easier, but harder to remove.  If using screws, use 1-1/2" screws (or close in length)

Step 10

Trundle

Lay 2x4s on a flat surface.  Place slats on top.

Adjust for square - opposite diagonals MUST match.

Nail and glue slats to 2x4s.

Step 11

Add back and sides to the trundle.

Recommend: Drill 3/4" pocket holes on top end of the 1x6s and attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws at top.  Also drill for attaching the front in next step.

Step 12

Add caster wheels, three on front and three on back, to the 2x4s.  

Place trundle inside the bed.

Step 13

Position the trundle face over the trundle and attach with screws.

Step 14

Read instructions with your drawer slides.  This drawer tutorial assumes each drawer slide needs 1/2" clearance (1" overall).  If you drawer slide differs you will need to adjust your drawer cuts.

Measure drawer openings and confirm the openings are 23" wide.  If not, you will need to adjust the drawer width.

Build drawer boxes.  

We recommend pocket holes on the outside (will be covered in later steps by drawer face)

Check drawers for square.

Glue and nail the plywood bottom to the drawer boxes.

Step 15

Install drawers inside the openings with drawer slides.  INSET 3/4" from front edge of 2x4s to allow for the drawer face.

Cut drawer faces 1/4" smaller than opening.

Place drawer face over installed drawers.

Attach with a couple of 1-1/4" nails (avoid areas where knobs or pulls will be installed)

Remove the drawers and attach from inside with 1-1/4" screws (you can use pocket hole screws)

Comments

klvno

Tue, 09/24/2019 - 19:59

I also love this bed but need a full size bed...other than the size, it is perfect in every other aspect.  I would love it if someone could tell me how to modify the plans for a full.

mvgreen3

Mon, 04/27/2020 - 18:01

I'm just finishing one of these. The standard mattress I bought is a bit to long for the trundle, which slides under the main bed and is therefore shorter. The one she refers to is surprisingly comfortable but fits perfectly. I'd imagine you could make the entire bed a few inches longer and and use a standard mattress.

Webbuzzard

Tue, 08/17/2021 - 05:52

I love the design. Is there a way to prevent the drawers from opening when the trundle is out? I see a potential safety issue.

pemp

Sun, 03/27/2022 - 14:22

A couple of typos I spotted...

The shopping list does not include enough boards for the drawer boxes. To make them with 1x6s as in the plans, a today of 7 1x6 @ 10 feet are needed.

The drawer fronts/backs are 22" on the cutlist. They should be 20.5"

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!