Changing Table - Brookstone

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How to build a changing table with free plans from featuring rustic barn style doors and space saving pullout wings.


Hi everyone!!!!

Remember our Brookstone collection of plans?

It started with the headboard .... love this one from Angeladrose ...

And there's a desk with hutch. And you didn't hear this from me ... but on our Facebook Page I did see a lovely crib made from two full sized headboards (complete with matching sibling twin bed) made in the same style ...

So when the super talented Patrick Hosey (who with his wife Crystal is due a second big round of congrats soon) wanted to make a matching changing table, I couldn't be more happy to design one!

Isn't it lovely?

To make changing diapers a little less dirty ... or at least easier, Patrick opted for the pull out wings on the sides for extra storage and pull out drawers instead of shelves. To make this plan easier, omit these and just go with fixed shelves.

Here's from Patrick:

I think it would be a cool idea to have an "Avoided Mistakes" section in every plan. I have a couple things to consider with this project. If you want to make drawers for this, be aware that normally you make your drawer 1 inch shorter in length than your face frame. It's totally not the case in this one. Because the doors are 1 1/2'' thick, you have to beef up the inside of the case in order for the drawers to clear the thick doors. Then you have to measure the drawers afterwards. This was a pain because I made the cabinet, then the drawers, and the doors last. As soon as the doors got installed I realized holy crap my drawers are way too long. I'd hope others don't make this mistake. So on the inside of the case wall, you have to stack 2 boards on top of each other to make a 1 1/2'' board and then attach it to the inside wall.

I didn't use knobs on the pull out wings. Instead I used a spray paint cap to curve out a piece that you can pull. I drilled a 3/4'' hole in the bottom of the curved piece to be able to get your finger under to pull it out.

Be extremely careful to get an exact 1/8'' gap for your pull out wing. Mine was a bit too wide so I had to use "L" brackets to attach my table top instead of pocket holes.

Keep in mind these are 1 1/2'' doors so you have to buy longer bolts for the knobs instead of using what comes with them. That's an extra trip to the store that no one wants.

One last thing. I had to use 1x6s for the door panel cause Home Depot was out of flooring. I chamfered the edges and then glued it up. Make sure to recess the inner panel about a half inch from the outside edge of the outer part of the door. This is the only way you'll be able to close your doors.

I hope that helps people save time and frustration.

Nice to know that even super advanced builders have challenges they work through too, isn't it? Thank you Patrick for all the tips and advice - it will really help out!

If you are not an advanced builder, simply build without the pullout leaves or drawers - it will be an easy peasy project then!



Shopping List

4 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
3 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1/2 sheet 3/4” plywood
2 - 1/8” shims 18” long
200” of 1x4 tongue and groove for door backs
2 sets of hinges

Cut List

2 - 1x2 @ 16 1/2”
2 - 1x3 @ 16 1/2”
6 - 1x6 @ 25 3/4”
4 - 2x2 @ 32 1/4”
4 - 1x3 @ 37 3/8”
1 - 3/4” plywood 18” x 37 3/8”
2 - 2x2 @ 37 3/8”
2 - 3/4” plywood @ 16 1/2” x 12” (could use boards here too and could possibly be made larger as well)
2 - 1/8” thick shims or plywood pieces 18” x 1”

4 - 1x2 @ 21 1/2”
4 - 1x2 @ 15 1/2”
1 - 1x2 cross brace - overall length 24 1/2” approximately
10 pieces of 1x4 tongue and groove paneling for door backs 20” long

1 - 3/4” plywood @ 18” x 38 7/8”
2 - 1x2 @ 41 7/8” (Long point to long point, both ends mitered at 45 degrees)
2 - 1x2 @ 21” (Long point to long point, both ends mitered at 45 degrees)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Start by building your sides. For the no pull out wings option, use a 1x3 at the top and extend the 1x6s 1" longer to meet the tops of the legs (see next step). You'll make two of these.

Step 2

Then attach the legs to the panels to create the two ends.

Step 3

Now we'll make this a box by adding the front and back trim.

NOTE: If you wish to attach top with PHs drill 3/4" PHs facing UPWARD on top aprons for later attaching top through.

Step 4

Drill 3/4" pocket holes around all sides of bottom shelf and attach in place. For additional shelves, you can attach fixed with pocket holes or use shelf pins.

Step 5

Step 6

Now attach the shims to the wings to keep from pulling all the way out and for a secure fit. Definitely do lots of testing here.

Step 7

When you are happy with the wings. let's get those doors installed. Build the main frame first, then mark your cross board and cut and attach. Then add the backing.

Step 8

Drill 3/4" PHs around all sides of the top and attach trim, mitering corners, with 1 1/4" PH screws. Attach to top.

Step 9

For the pullout drawers, make to fit your drawer slides. Here's a tutorial on pullout cabinet organizers.

Now if I could just come up with a plan to get them to stop growing so much! Can you believe that my toddler is now a big girl????

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.


Scott H (not verified)

Mon, 01/21/2013 - 17:44

I would not change a teddy bear on this thing the way it is planned. The ends are good and sturdy but connecting them with 1x3's there is no way to make this thing solid, change them to 2x4s. There isn't a back listed for this plan, I highly recommend this for sturdiness. The 1x2 door frames around the 1x4 tongue and groove boards are a horrible design, the 1x2 will split and fall off the first time you open the door, if you can even get it together. I suggest either 1x6's or 3/4 inch plywood for the doors. There isn't any door magnet/ catches listed in materials list either. This is the 5th piece of furniture I have built off of this website and by far the worst design and plans. Dont waste your time with this plan unless you plan on modifying it.


Mon, 03/11/2013 - 06:15

This table came out great and is very strong. I did add a backing to it. It definitely took a little bit more time than other builds on this site. If you're worried about the sturdiness, make sure that you are glueing and clamping each step. If you're really in doubt, just add a couple extra screws.


Fri, 05/10/2013 - 15:33

I was wondering what anyone was using for the backing? Im assuming if you added drawers to it, you wouldnt need 3/4" plywood for the bottom?

This would allow you to use cheaper material for the back and bottom correct?