Chunky Leg Side Table

diy modern end table plans
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Simple to build end table or side table with a modern flair!  Free DIY plans by ana-white.com  

Matching coffee table plans here.

 

 

Having a good set of living room tables will create function, structure and style in your space.

I designed a new set of occasional tables that are easy to build with basic tools, perfectly sized and constructed of basic, durable materials, with a chunky leg twist.  It's the essential with an edge, clean lines that aren't boring.

modern end table free plans

We've had this set in our living room for a few weeks now, and honestly, I'm very much smitten.  They are sturdy, comfortable, useful, but still stylish.  They've been holding up well.  They work great with small children with no sharp outside edges.  I'm thrilled to be able to share this collection with you.

Links to Other Plans in this Collection

crate and barrel terra desk plans

Build Video

This set is really a quick and easy build.  All the pieces follow the same basic steps as the coffee table, so please do watch that video before building:

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Chunky Leg Side Table

Dimensions
end table dimensions
Dimensions shown in diagram, about 2 foot cube shape.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 16 - 2" long self tapping wood screws with star bit (SPAX or similar)
  • wood glue
  • 120 and 150 grit sand paper
  • paint or stain
Cut List
  • 4 - 1x12 @ 23-1/2" - shelf boards
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 23" - legs

 

Top Shelf Frame

  • 2 - 1x3 @ about 19-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 19"
  • 2 - 1x2 @ about 18" - measure and cut to fit

 

Bottom Shelf Frame

  • 2 - 1x2 @ about 19-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 19"
  • 2 - 1x2 @ about 18" - measure and cut to fit
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Drill
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Measure the ends of your 2x6 legs - it should measure 1-1/2" x 5-1/2"

Mark out on all four 1x12 boards, and cut out with a jigsaw.

Step 2

Place the cut 1x12s together and measure in between the cuts.  It should be about 19-1/2".

Cut two 1x3s to this measurement.

Step 3

Using the 1x3s cut in the last step and the two 1x3 boards at 19" from the cut list, nail together the 1x3s into a frame.

Step 4

Measure the inside as shown and cut a 1x2 to fit.

Nail and glue inside the frame, flush to the bottom.

Step 5

Apply glue between your 1x12 boards.  If you have a Kreg Jig, attach the 1x12 boards together with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Apply glue to bottom edges of the frame and position on the 1x12s.

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.  Also attach from top along edge that wasn't nailed.

Step 6

Repeat steps 1-5, but for the bottom shelf using a 1x2 frame instead of a 1x3 frame.

Step 7

Place the top shelf (1x3 frame) face down on a flat level surface.

Attach from inside with 2" screws at a slight angle.

TIP: I only did one screw at first per leg, so that I could maneuver the legs somewhat while fitting the shelf in.  After I was happy with the bottom shelf and the table sitting square, I then added the second screws.

Step 8

Add bottom shelf inside the legs.  I used a scrap 1x3 to space the bottom shelf up 2-1/2" on the legs.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Finishing is very important to the overall completed look.
Sand with 120 grit sandpaper, working in the direction of the grain.
If staining, follow with 150 grit sandpaper.
Remove sanding residue with a vaccuum and soft bristled brush attachment.
Wipe with a damp cloth and let dry.
Apply paint or stain according to manufacturer's directions.
Finish Used
I used Varathane Sunbleached with a clear poly top coat

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!