Classic Storage Wall, Extra Wide Media Unit

Classic Storage Wall, Extra Wide Media Unit
Difficulty
Intermediate
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This extra wide media base is sturdy and solid, featuring ample storage. If you need more storage, simply add storage bases and hutches to create an entire media suite from other plans in the Classic Storage Collection. Special thanks to our readers for sharing their photos.

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Classic Storage Wall, Extra Wide Media Unit

Dimensions
Classic Storage Wall, Extra Wide Media Unit
62" Wide x 25" Deep x 22 1/2" Tall

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 – Sheet of 3/4″ A1 Plywood in desired Species or MDF if you are painting 
  • 1 – 1×3 at least 62″ Long 
  • 2 – 1×2 
  • 1 – 2 1/2 base moulding (optional) 
  • 1 – sheet of 3/8 Plywood or MDF (matching your A1 if you are staining the project) 
  • 2 – Sets of either butterfly hinges or Face Frame Euro Hinges 
  • 2 – Pulls or Knobs 
  • 8 – Shelf Pins Edge Banding (If you are staining the project)
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List
  • A) 1 – 1×24 @ 60 1/2″ (Bottom) 
  • B) 2 – 1×24 @ 19 1/4″ (Middle Partitions) 
  • C) 2 – 1×24 @ 21 3/4″ (Sides) 
  • D) 1 – 1×24 @ 62″ (Top) 
  • E) 1- 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 62″ x 22 1/2″ (Back) 
  • F) 1- 1×3 @ 62″ (Bottom Trim) 
  • G) 2 – 1×2 @ 62″ (Top Trim and Top Edge Trim) 
  • H) 2 – 1×2 @ 17 3/4″ (Side Trim) Optional Base Moulding, 2 1/2″ overall height, 62″ Long 2 – 1×24 @ 28″ (Shelves) Door Cut List – Recommend measuring the opening in the drawer and building the drawer 1/4″ smaller thean the overall opening. Remember that the door will cover the middle partitions, as shown in the diagrams. These dimensions give are the ideal door dimensions. 
  •  I) 2 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 17 1/4″ x 15 1/4″ (Backs of Doors) 
  • J) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 1 1/2″ x 15 1/4″ (Rails on the Doors) 
  • K) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 1 1/2″ x 14 1/4″ (Stiles on the Doors)
Cutting Instructions

A 1x24 is simply 3/4" plywood ripped into 23 1/2" wide strips, 8 feet long. You can get two 1x24s out of each sheet of plywood. This system is used to ease building, creating straighter cuts, and conserve wood. Most plans on Ana-White.com use standard width boards for these reasons and more. If you cannot find 3/8″ plywood, you can use 1/2″ plywood for the backs and 1/4″ stock (for example maple 1/4″ thick x 1 1/2″ wide). Hobby stock is available at our local Blue store in a wide variety.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Cut your 3/4″ Plywood or MDF into strips 23 1/2″ wide by 8′ long. These strips become 1×24 boards. From 2 of the 1×24 boards, cut the the top and a shelf, and the bottom and a shelf. Then cut the remaining sides and middle partitions out of a third 1×24. You will have one 1×24 leftover for future projects. Work on a clean level surface. You can fasten with nails or screws, depending on your tools and the use of this piece. Screws will hold better, nails are easier. My general rule is screw anything that will be “used” like chairs and benches, and nail sedentary pieces like bookcases and hutches. I will leave this up to you. If you are screwing, make sure you predrill and countersink your screws. If you are using MDF, avoid fastening within 1″ of the edge of the MDF. Do not use wood screws on MDF. Wood screws do not have a straight shaft and will split your MDF. I have had luck with drywall screws (after all, drywall is very similar to MDF). Make sure you predrill the entire distance of the screws. It’s going to screeech, so wear hearing protection. And glue, glue, glue. My favorite option is to screw the “box” together, and then use finish nails to add the frame. That way the frame does not have blemishes, but the piece is built sturdy. Make sure you take a square of the project after each step. Measure and mark out any joints before fastening. Be safe, have fun.

Instructions

Step 1

Bottom and Middle Partitions. Fasten with 2″ fasteners the bottom, A, to the middle pieces, B (green) as shown above.

Step 2

Sides. Use the 2″ fasteners to fasten the sides to the bottom as shown above. There will be a 1 3/4″ clearnance under the bottom shelf.

Step 3

Top. Fasten the top to the sides and middle partitions, as shown above. Use the 2″ fasteners. Make sure you fasten the middle partitions to the measurements shown above.

Step 4

Back. Fasten the back with 1 1/4″ fasteners to the top, bottom, sides and middle partition, as shown in the above diagram.

Step 5

Step 6

Top Trim. Fasten the top trim in place, as shown above. Be sure to fasten to the middle partitions and the sides. You will not be able to fasten to the top. See next step.

Step 7

Top Edge Trim. Fasten the top edge trim in place, as shown below. Make sure you fasten through the face of the trim into the top of the project.

Step 8

Side Trim. Fasten the side trim to the base unit, as shown above. Keep outside edges flush.

Step 9

Doors. Test your backs to make sure they fit in the openings. Notice how the doors cover the middle partition. Use 5/8″ fasteners, lots of glue and clamps to fasten the rails to the back of the doors, as shown above.

Step 10

Door Stiles. Fasten the stiles, as directed in step 9, to the doors. Lay flat to dry, preferably with something heavy on top. If you are staining the project, you will need to add edge banding to the top and inside edges of the doors. This is easy and inexpensive to do (see HOW-TO section for a post on Choosing your Wood).
After you have finished the project, attach the doors to the cabinet using either butterfly hinges or euro hinges for face framed cabinets.

Step 11

Optional Base Moulding. If you would like to dress the base up, add moulding as shown above. The moulding will need to be less than 2 1/2″ in overall width.

Step 12

Shelves. Determine where you will place your shelves. Drill holes 1″ from the front and 1″ from the back on both middle partitions, 1/2″ deep, with a 1/4″ drill bit, where the base of the shelf will sit. Insert shelf pins and place your shelf in the base unit. If you are staining your base unit, you will need to add edge banding to the front edge of the shelves.

Comments

Marc (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 03:04

If I want that dark brown color show in the second sample picture, am I better off painting or staining? I'd like to get it close to matching the deep color of our Cost Plus coffee table. Paint v Stain is definitely an area I don't know much about.

Sheri (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 03:07

Oh my word! How did you know we need a new media center?! I am bookmarking this to show DH, I have a feeling my island will be put on hold. But it's worth it!

Debbie (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 03:12

SOOO Excited for this project! I have been looking at media units since Thanksgiving. I absolutely love this one...my only problem is that I need the bottom to be off the floor at least in the front as I have floor vents along the wall that this unit would sit over. Is there a way to do that?

Jennifer (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 04:55

I have been pouring over your site since I found it, trying to decide what to make first...Logan might be the winner- I like it's clean lines. Not too modern, not too rustic, just right.

Crazy Girl Blond (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 05:04

I am so excited that you have posted this plan. I actually printed the exact same unit yesterday and knew this is exactly what I wanted! I can't wait! Thanks so much!!!

Regina (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 05:17

This is fantastic and I (and my husband) are loving your site. We're starting with the farmhouse bed tonight and will be moving along to this cabinet shortly thereafter. I am thrilled that I can follow your plans myself without much need for husband intervention. Thanks for all you do, we'll send pictures when we're done!

Leslie (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 05:31

Gosh! I'm so in love with this site, which I JUST found about a week ago! We're selling our home right now so my building plans are on hold. You have NO IDEA how it's killing me, looking at these plans and knowing that I have to wait. I am NOT a waiter. I have a question, though: Would you ever consider giving an "approximate cost" of the materials for your projects? I know that each project will differ with each "builder," but I love to see the "original price" -vs- the "reproduction price." Thanks so much for your willingness to share. It means alot.

Brett and Heather (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 05:54

I discovered your blog about a week ago and have spent hours looking and drooling. I have seriously been rearranging my days trying to find a time to start a few projects of yours. However, I saw the Logan Unit and there was a halo around it and "AHHHH" music in the background. Ding! Ding! Ding! This is exactly what I have been looking for. I am looking for something to replace the ends of a big red media until that I bought at the scratch and dent furniture store. I am stealing them from my daughters' room to go in my craft room. I didn't want to attempt painting them from red to white...too many coats of paint required. You rock!!! Can't wait to start...it is going to look Fabulous!!!

Jen Barnes (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 06:13

I'm going to continue looking around your site here but I am wondering if you have a recommended list of tools somewhere. We currently have a drill, dremel, a hack saw, a random orbital sander, a hammer and some screwdrivers. I *know* we need more than these to build this entertainment center.

I LOVE YOUR PLANS! I am inspired to replace all of the IKEA junk in our house with hand-built furniture!

Erika (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 07:16

This is it!!! We are moving in March and I have been waiting for you to post a media table that is my taste, and this is it!! I just text my husband with the supply list!

Ana White (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 07:49

STAIN VS PAINT

Please refer to this post in the HOW-TO section: http://knockoffwood.blogspot.com/2009/12/how-to-choose-you-type-of-wood…

If you are wanting the stained look, you will need to use A1 plywood in maple, birch, oak or your desired hardwood. You then might as well frame the face in the matching hardwood, because there is only a few boards required for the frame. This is the more expensive route. You will also need to edge band your exposed plywood edges and the doors. This is very simple to do, and there is more information on edge banding in the link above.

On the doors, you will need to use 3/8" matching hardwood plywood, and also glue 1/2" cove base mouldings to the inside edge of the rails and stiles.

Sounds like alot, but this is going to be beautiful. The extra trim on the insides of the doors will make the piece stunning.

Plan on spending about $150. Not the 90% off that we can do on some other pieces, but a huge savings from Pottery Barn's $800 price tag.

Anonymous (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 08:08

Thank you so much! I have been checking this site many times daily since I discovered it on Apartment Therapy. Your blog is amazing! I am so excited for the plans for the two side cabinets (or bases) - they look awesome!

Anonymous (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 09:17

Hee hee hee - I thought that you were going to tell me about a tool in your garage which intimidated you. But no, it was a grater. :)

Glad you figured that one out. Now you can make masterpieces in the kitchen and the workshop.

Lauren (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 08:17

Hi Ana!
We just found your site and plan on making the media bench this weekend as our first project. I'm sooo excited! I've been drooling over these for ages. I have a quick question and pardon me if its somewhere in the blog or seems very basic or silly. I've been trying to go back and read posts, but I haven't seen anything. When you say cut list, do I get these items cut at Home Depot (which is not always exact) or do I use a saw that I rent/buy? And then if I use a saw that I rent/buy do I have to set up a special bench etc to get these cuts. I'm printing everything out so we can head to the store tommmorrow and was confused. I guess I don't understand which saw you would cut the MDF with. Thanks and love your site!

Room to Inspire (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 20:35

I just wanted to let you know I stumbled upon your blog recently and I am in love! I received my very own power tools for Christmas and I have been super excited, but ever time after I visit your blog I am truly inspired. Thanks!

Chelsea

Shae (not verified)

Mon, 01/25/2010 - 09:31

I just wanted to say I have never been so thankful to find a blog in my life. My Dad and I work together alot on projects and I am absolutely so excited to know I can actually build this stuff. Thank you so much! You are such a talented woman! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Christy (not verified)

Wed, 01/27/2010 - 18:24

Hi Ana,

I've been working on this unit off an on for the past couple of days. I'm stuck on the cabinet doors. You have the measurement of the height at 7 and 1/4" for the door backs. However, when I put them on the front of the base, they're about 1/2" too short. Should they be 7 and 3/4" like the side trim? Please let me know ... I'll have to go and get some more MDF to have cut the right length if so. Thanks!

Christy (not verified)

Wed, 01/27/2010 - 18:26

Apparently, leaving comments late at night is not my strong point. LOL! I meant 17 and 3/4" for the height of the door backs (not the 7 and 3/4" that I originally said). Sorry about that.

Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 01/28/2010 - 07:22

Hi Christy, the doors need to be 1/4" less than the overall opening to allow the doors to open and close. Sometimes when you build you can get "off" a little, making the distance greater than the measurements given. Sometimes its not you, sometimes the boards that you select can be slightly narrower than they should be, making your doors get a little off. If you have yet to cut your doors, take overall measurments and then subtract 1/4" from the overall opening on the height and width. Then build your doors to these dimensions.

If you have already cut your plywood backs, you can cut your stiles slightly longer, and have your bottom rail sit over (not flush) with the bottom of the plywood. You will never see this. But make sure you keep the top edges flush.

Heather (not verified)

Mon, 02/15/2010 - 09:14

I am so incredibly excited! I found your site last week via apartment therapy and have been poring over it all week. My dad is so good at woodworking and I have always been intimidated. Well, he and I are going to build this together! He's going to teach me all he knows and then I plan on going on my own from there. Thank you sooooo much for this site!!

Heather (not verified)

Fri, 03/05/2010 - 09:41

Love this. I am picturing in in my tv/family room. It is so beautiful, I can't wait till we come off our spending freeze (dog needed surgery).

Angela (not verified)

Tue, 05/18/2010 - 12:28

Do you have Gail's measurements for the smaller media stand? I am only interested in the middle portion. Thanks!

orange sugar (not verified)

Fri, 07/16/2010 - 17:01

Hi Ana. I'm getting ready to build this with a few modifications in dimensions and working on my cutting layout.

One thing I wanted to point out. Shelves for the sides, behind the doors, aren't included in the cut list. I'm assuming people would want shelves in there, right?

Brian (not verified)

Wed, 04/20/2011 - 12:10

I found your site looking for a cheaper alternative to buying the furniture at the store, which could cost thousands.  I built a desk and two bookcases that I found here all for under $100 a piece.  Thank you for helping people who don't have thousands to spend on quality furniture.  This console is definitely next on the list. 

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 02/04/2012 - 14:23

This is awesome, going to try it as my first projet. One problem..the images don't size fully so I can't see all the measurements?

cannonballs

Sat, 03/03/2012 - 08:47

Is there any way to get bigger versions of the SketchUp example pictures? They're too small to read any of the print in them. Thanks.

Jennifer Reeher (not verified)

Sun, 12/16/2012 - 19:12

I really love this design, but my husband wants doors covering all the shelves on the media unit.

How would I go about adding doors on the middle section??
Also, how would I change the sizes of everything?

Thanks so very much. I really love all of your designs & really appreciate the work you've done to allow others to make wonderful, quality DIY pieces for the home.

-Jenn

sean calleja (not verified)

Sat, 01/05/2013 - 07:46

So, I have a Kreg Jig and I love it. However, I have not used it with MDF yet. Do I need to use an alternate method of joining MDF because the Kreg Jig square head nails come in course and fine thread WOOD screws? The more I review the plans, the more it is less Kreg Friendly. Am I just being timid? MDF is a little pricey to just start hacking up. Thanks for the help.
Sean

seancalleja

Mon, 04/01/2013 - 06:58

Now, I just need to post the brag! Some notes that I took away from this build.
1. If Kreg makes it, you should buy it immediately.
2. When cutting your 16" strips down to make them more manageable, make sure the cut you make is straight (Kreg Rip Cut).
3. Cut shelves last...after your 10 coats of paint.
4. I used cleats to attach the bridge
5. My Paslode trim nailer made the last three pieces very easy, I should have bought this up front.
6. You can use your scrap MDF for trim instead of 1x2's.
It took me 5 weekends to complete this project and loved every minute of it.

jr91392

Thu, 01/22/2015 - 21:56

I was going to make this entirely out of MDF and not use plywood (I have no preference between paint and stain), but I am worried if that would be sturdy enough for a large TV. They can be almost 100 pounds, mine is like 85. I worry that if I make it out of MDF that the top would start to sag pretty quickly. Perhaps I'll use plywood for that piece and use MDF for the rest of it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!