Frequently Asked Questions
Wood Questions
What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!
Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.
What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.
What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.
Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.
Cutting Questions
Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.
How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.
Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.
Joinery Questions
What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.
Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.
How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.
Finishing Questions
Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.
What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.
How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.
Plan Questions
Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.
Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.
Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.
General Questions
What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.
Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.
What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!
What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.
I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.
Care & Maintenance
How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.
How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.
How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.
Want to Build with Confidence?
Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.
Still Have Questions?
Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!
Comments
Ari Z (not verified)
Mon, 08/15/2011 - 12:51
Who says a mudroom has to be
Who says a mudroom has to be unorganized and cramped? I applaud you for taking on the daunting task of organizing your family's "catch all" room. I think every home could stand to have a few more shelves and hooks!
Guest (not verified)
Mon, 08/15/2011 - 13:54
Absolutely adored
I was wondering if you could show the plans for the mud room that you showed that you "absolutely adored". This is exactly what I am shopping for too and I love that one. Thanks!
Guest (not verified)
Tue, 08/16/2011 - 07:36
I think that just such places
I think that just such places in mudrooms for coats and shoes and boots like any of the above are amazing. Directly across from my back door when walking into my mud room, I have a 48" wide space into which I will be designing just such a organizational space. When the time comes, I will post pics. Thanks for showing inspirational pics Ana!
Guest (not verified)
Thu, 08/25/2011 - 11:16
I keep trying to download PDF
I keep trying to download PDF of the "Cutest Mudroom" and keep getting:
TCPDF ERROR: [Image] Unable to get image: file:///home/anawhite/public_html/dev/acquia-drupal-1.2.33/sites/default/files/bhg%20mudroom%202.jpg?1313424674
Are others having this problem or is it my computer?
townsean
Sun, 08/28/2011 - 17:54
Super cute
I really wished I had mud room in my home. I'd love to make this!
Ksenia (not verified)
Tue, 09/27/2011 - 19:25
Hobby Stock on Doors
You referred to Hobby Stock to dress up the doors. What is that exactly and where does one buy it?
Guest (not verified)
Mon, 10/24/2011 - 22:34
How would you attach the
How would you attach the wainscotting and such to the rest of the furniture pieces? And how could I make it to where it would be easy to disassemble for moving? Thank you! Looks amazing!
Guest (not verified)
Mon, 10/24/2011 - 22:34
How would you attach the
How would you attach the wainscotting and such to the rest of the furniture pieces? And how could I make it to where it would be easy to disassemble for moving? Thank you! Looks amazing!
tracysmith
Mon, 10/24/2011 - 23:59
You're not the only one!
I see the same error message when I try the link and it's not the only plan with that issue. However, not all the plans do have it.
BobR (not verified)
Sun, 11/20/2011 - 16:51
MDF - a poor choice?
I've started prepping to build this project. There are several firsts for me in this project - first time using a router, first time (buying/)using a Kreg Jig, and a first time working with MDF (3/4"). I have some questions.
1) I used the router to create a notch along the inside edges of the back of the towers so the backing would be recessed (flush actually) and the towers could be flush against the wall. I hate seeing furniture with a backing where the unfinished edge of the backing is showing. I guess this isn't really a question, but more of a thought for others thinking about doing this project.
2) I'm using 3/4" MDF. The front edges of the towers(vertical members and horizontal shelves) are going to have exposed edges. I've tried sanding/sealing and sanding/sealing again to try to create nice edge, but it doesn't seem to want to hold a nice, smooth edge. Is there a trick? Or do I need to use screen bead or something on the edges?
3) I'm playing with the Kreg Jig, experimenting some. I was thinking I would use it to create pocket holes to attach the shelves and to build the box for the center. But, I've been having trouble with the MDF splitting (on the side with the pocket hole) when I put the screw in. The scrap I'm using to test with is about 1.5" wide...maybe that's too narrow for pocket hole in MDF?
4) Along the same lines, I was thinking I would use the pocket hole inserts to cover the holes. Try as I might, however, I can't seem to get them to seat all the way. Is there a trick? Or do you just sand them down the last 1/16"? (And should glue be used to hold them in?)
I appreciate any responses!
Bob
BobR (not verified)
Sun, 11/20/2011 - 19:49
Even finish nails split the MDF
As a follow up to my last comment, I did a test mimicking how the shelves would be finish-nailed to the verticals in the tower (if not screwed via pocket hole). Even finish nails as small as 1" brads cause the MDF to start to split. ?? Maybe it's just that I am nailing into the end of a piece that is only 1.5" wide?
Thanks!
Bob
In reply to MDF - a poor choice? by BobR (not verified)
claydowling
Sun, 11/20/2011 - 20:00
Definitely a poor choice
MDF has many wonderful properties, but as a structural material it stinks. It's heavy and doesn't hold fasteners well (as you're finding). It makes an awesome table top or counter top though, and it's really good for building lots of shop jigs to help with building other things. You should try to check out David Marks on You Tube for some great examples of using MDF in the shop.
This project will be a lot easier with plywood for the case, and gluing a strip of 1x2 or 1x3 to the front end to give it a nice finished look. As long as you don't put nails into it, you can route the solid wood if that's what your preference is, or you can simple leave the solid wood as is. That's actually how the nicer custom cabinets are made.
As far as buying plywood goes, skip both Lowes and Home Depot. The plywood they sell is barely sufficient for boarding up windows. Find a lumber yard, and inspect how they're storing it before you accept delivery. It needs to be stored on a flat surface. It can't be stored on two or three forks, the way you see it in the big box stores. And all of the pieces in the stack need to lay completely flat on each other, without gaps. If it doesn't, the wood is warped and will make your life miserable.
As for the kreg hole plugs, I wouldn't bother. Buy a dowel of the right size, glue it in, and cut it flat with a flush cut saw (all of the big box stores sell them, generally with the Japanese saws). You'll have to sand or plane to get it perfectly flush, but you won't have to sand or plane much.
BobR (not verified)
Sun, 11/20/2011 - 20:40
A follow-up question
Thanks for you response, Clay. A quick follow-up question. You mention using 1x2 or 1x3 to the front end of the case. Do you just mean the bench or to the towers, too? Since I've already purchased the MDF (and had it cut to width...in other words, can't return it), do you think I could at least use it for the verticals? None of the vertical pieces have to have the pocket holes put in them (putting the screw into the pocket hole is what was splitting). So, I could use plywood for the shelves and use the MDF for the vertical pieces with 1x2 or 1x3 around the outside edges (assuming that's what you meant). The plywood certainly will hold the pocket-hole screw without issue. And, for the edge on the front of the plywood shelves, I could put a screen bead or something on the front and make the front edge line up with the edge of the 1x2 or 1x3. Any thoughts?
I appreciate your help.
Bob
monicacaptri (not verified)
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 09:01
This article has some great
This article has some great and useful information about this subject. Thank you for sharing it in an easy to read and understandable format.
http://www.britecarpetcleaners.com/carpet_cleaning_Santa_Monica.html
claydowling
Mon, 11/21/2011 - 06:05
MDF
I wouldn't do it, but you can try if you like, just be prepared to redo it in a few years if it starts to fail.
It would be fine for things like the bench seating. Flat and well supported surfaces are where mdf really shines, because it's good at staying flat.
As far as trimming out the shelves (which really should be out of solid wood or plywood), your life is made easier if you trim them out with the same material you use to trim the cabinet. But if you have some other moulding you like better, it's your project, so I'd recommend going with what makes you happiest. You're the one who has to look at it every day, so my opinion should count for less.
BobR
Mon, 11/21/2011 - 06:28
Thanks
Okay, points taken. Thanks for your help!
Bown
Thu, 01/12/2012 - 07:43
PDF!
I love love LOVE this plan!! I am having trouble with the PDF Link. It won't open for me in PDF! I like to print the plans in PDF to keep them all consistent in my little DIY folder. :) Is anyone else having trouble with it?
Guest (not verified)
Wed, 02/22/2012 - 08:44
mudroom lockers
Can you post a link to what you ultimately "bought"? Thank you.
Mary - Scentsy… (not verified)
Tue, 02/28/2012 - 14:55
How do I add support if I make it longer?
If I wanted to make this 48" (with a 12" depth) to go between cabinets I already have in place. How should I go about adding support for the long board? Do I just add vertical supports and make it more compartment-like with more doors?
Thanks to whoever can answer. I am new to this and trying to figure it all out.
Jennifer Adams (not verified)
Wed, 01/02/2013 - 18:28
mudroom
I would love to have the plans for houseofturquoise.com. Please if you could help? Thanks
MelanieE
Mon, 06/24/2013 - 05:32
Need Help!
I am a beginner. I got the Ikea bookcases, wall cabinet (and built a box underneath to raise it up 3 3/4 inch. Got a piece of wainscotting and the finishing pieces (2) 1x4, (1) 1x2 all in the correct sizes. All painted and ready to go. But how to assemble everything? In what order? Should I secure wall cabinet to wall, then put wainscotting & finishing pieces, then end with the bookcases? Also, do you put the finishing pieces sitting right above and below wainscotting or do you position them on top of it? What materials do you recommend to attach the wainscotting and finishing pieces (nailer?), construction adhesive? Will finish off with baseboard to give it the built in look. Would love some advice please. I have come so far! Thank you.
dragons49
Wed, 06/04/2014 - 23:04
Pdf won't show up
Pdf won't show up