Essential Bed Frame in All Sizes

essential bed frame
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build your own beautiful and durable wood bed frame in any size.  Can be painted or stained any color.  Free step by step plans by Ana-White.com

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I love the simplicity and comfort of a sturdy, well built wood bed frame.  But bed frames can easily cost $500-$1000 or more!  Why not build your own?  For a fraction of this cost, you could have a beautiful, custom solid wood bed frame!

Our DIY Wood Bed Frame Benefits

  • Sturdy and solid for comfort and long term durability
  • Easy to adjust in size 
  • Paint or stain any color
  • No box spring required
  • No bed skirt required

Video Tutorial for Building this Bed Frame

Here is a video tutorial of me building this bed frame.  

Ready to build your own?  The free step by step tutorial is below.  

Thank you for using my plans,  we appreciate the support and trust.

 

 

 

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Essential Bed Frame in All Sizes

Dimensions
bed frame dimensions
Dimensions shown in queen size. Can be altered to different mattress sizes and heights.

Preparation

Shopping List

Twin (Mattress measures 38" x 75")

  • 1 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 10' long (cut one long frame board and one short frame board from each board)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long or scraps for the corner supports
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long (adjust to 8' length for extra long twins)
  • 6-7 1x3 @ 6 feet long for bed slats, can use furring strips
  • 50 - 2-1/2" Kreg Screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails

Full (Mattress measures 54" x 75")

  • 1 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long  (cut shorter frame boards from this board)
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 12 feet long (cut longer frame boards from this board)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 12 feet long (center supports, corner supports and center leg)
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 10 feet long
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 6-7 1x3 @ 10 feet long, bed slats, can use furring strips
  • 50 - 2-1/2" Kreg Screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails

Queen (Mattress measures 60" x 80")

  • 1 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 10 feet long  (cut shorter frame boards from this board)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long or stud length
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 12 feet long - center support, corner supports and center leg
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 10 feet long
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 6-7 1x3 @ 12 feet long for bed slats
  • 50 - 2-1/2" Kreg Screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails

Standard King (Mattress measures 76" x 80")

  • 1 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 12 feet long - center support, corner supports and center leg
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 12 feet long  (cut shorter frame boards from this board)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 12 - 14 1x3 @ 8 feet long for the slat system
  • 50 - 2-1/2" Kreg Screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails

California King (Mattress measures 72" x 84")

  • 1 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 12 feet long - center support, corner support and center leg
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 12 feet long (cut shorter frame boards from this board)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 12 - 14 1x3s @ 6 feet long for slat system
  • 50 - 2-1/2" Kreg Screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
Cut List

Basic Measurements to Adjust From

  • LEGS: 4x4 legs cut to 3/4" less than the desired bed frame height.  Recommended finished height of beds with mattress is 24"-26" 
  • FRAME TOP/BOTTOM - 2x6 cut to 7" less than the mattress width
  • FRAME SIDES - 2x6 cut to 7" less than the mattress height
  • CENTER SUPPORT - 2x4 cut to 4-1/2" less than the mattress height
  • CORNER SUPPORTS - Same for all sizes, 6-3/4" long point to long point measurement, both ends cut at 45 degree bevel
  • CENTER LEG(S) - Same as 4x4 legs
  • TOP TRIM TOP/BOTTOM - Same as mattress width - should be cut to fit
  • TOP TRIM SIDES - Mattress length minus 3" - should be cut to fit
  • SLATS - Mattress width minus 3" - should be cut to fit

Twin (Mattress measures 38" x 75")

  • 4 - 4x4 @ 12-1/4" - bed legs
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 31" - frame top and bottom
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 68" (for extra long twin (80" mattress length), cut at 73") - frame sides
  • 4 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 6-3/4" - both ends cut at 45 degree bevel, ends perpendicular - corner supports
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 38" - top trim, measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 72" - top trim, measure and cut to fit (77" for extra long twin)
  • Slats cut to 35" long, recommend about 12-14 1x3s, but spacing depends on mattress requirements

Full (Mattress measures 54" x 75")

  • 4 - 4x4 @ 12-1/4" - bed legs
  • 1 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 12-1/4" long - center leg
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47" - frame top and bottom sides
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 68" - frame sides
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 70-1/2" - center support
  • 4 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 6-3/4" - both ends cut at 45 degree bevel, ends perpendicular - corner supports
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 54" - top trim, measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 72" - top trim, measure and cut to fit
  • Slats cut to 51" long, recommend about 12 1x3s, but spacing depends on mattress requirements

Queen (Mattress measures 60" x 80")

  • 4 - 4x4 @ 12-1/4" - bed legs
  • 1 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 12-1/4" long - center leg
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 53" - frame top and bottom sides
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 73" - frame sides
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 75-1/2" - center support
  • 4 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 6-3/4" - both ends cut at 45 degree bevel, ends perpendicular - corner supports
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 60" - top trim, measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 77" - top trim, measure and cut to fit
  • Slats cut to 57" long, recommend about 12 1x3s, but spacing depends on mattress requirements

Standard King (Mattress measures 76" x 80")

  • 4 - 4x4 @ 12-1/4" - bed legs
  • 1 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 12-1/4" long - center leg
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 69" - frame top and bottom sides
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 73" - frame sides
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 75-1/2" - center support
  • 4 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 6-3/4" - both ends cut at 45 degree bevel, ends perpendicular - corner supports
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 76" - top trim, measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 77" - top trim, measure and cut to fit
  • Slats cut to 73" long, recommend about 12 1x3s, but spacing depends on mattress requirements

California King (Mattress measures 72" x 84")

  • 4 - 4x4 @ 12-1/4" - bed legs
  • 1 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 12-1/4" long - center leg
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 65" - frame top and bottom sides
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 77" - frame sides
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 79-1/2" - center support
  • 4 - 2x4 or 2x6 @ 6-3/4" - both ends cut at 45 degree bevel, ends perpendicular - corner supports
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 72" - top trim, measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 81" - top trim, measure and cut to fit
  • Slats cut to 69" long, recommend about 12 1x3s, but spacing depends on mattress requirements
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Once finished this project becomes very large, especially for the king sizes.  

You may wish to cut and prefinish the legs, frame boards and 1x2 top trim first, then assemble everything in the room.

 

For long term durability and more professional results, I recommend using a pocket hole joinery system for wood joints.  Here is a video with tips for using a pocket hole jig:

Instructions

Step 1

Build the "headboard" and "footboard" sections first by attaching the 2x6 top and bottom frame pieces to two 4x4 legs.  Use 1x scrap wood to block up the 2x6, so it is inset on the 4x4 legs by 3/4".  Two 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws per joint.

Step 2

Connect the "headboard" and "footboard" pieces together with the longer frame boards.

This time use three pocket holes (same 1-1/2" thick material setting and 2-1/2" screws).

Again, inset the frame boards on the legs.

Step 3

Adjust the frame for square by taking diagonal measurements and adjusting until the diagonals are exactly the same.  

Then attach the corner supports as shown, screwing to the legs and the frame boards.  

Step 4

Skip this step for twin beds.

Mark the center of the bed between the "headboard" and "footboard" and add the center support with two pocket holes per end.

Step 5

Attach leg to the center support with four 2-1/2" screws.

Step 6

Measure and cut the two trim pieces.  Glue and nail to the top of the bed.

Step 7

Measure and cut the side trim pieces.  Glue and nail to the top of the bed.

Step 8

Measure and cut slats.  Lay down in bed.  Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!