Extra Wide Media Base for the Cubby Media Suite

Extra Wide Media Base for the Cubby Media Suite
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Designed to fit those giant flat panel tvs, this extra wide media base is open for storage of your gaming consoles, controllers, board games, and other entertainment accessories. Works with the rest of the Cubby Collection to create an entire media storage suite. Photos courtesy of Shanty2Chic.

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Extra Wide Media Base for the Cubby Media Suite

Dimensions
Extra Wide Media Base for the Cubby Media Suite
52" Wide x 16" Tall x 22" Deep

Preparation

Shopping List

1 sheet 3/4″ Hardwood Plywood or MDF (estimate) 2″ Finish Nails or Drywall Screws (for MDF) or Wood Screws (for Plywood) 1 1/4″ Nails or Screws 1/4″ Plywood for the backs (You can use scrap 3/4″ MDF or Plywood, but 1/4″ plywood is cheap, about $10 a sheet, compared with MDF at $30 a sheet and Hardwood Plywood at $50 a sheet). 1 – Base Moulding, 2 1/2″ overall height, at least 52″ long (see examples in other cameron base plans) Wood Putty Sand Paper Wood Glue Finishing Supplies (Paint, Stain, etc)

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

A) 1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 23″ x 21″ (Center Shelf) B) 2 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 12 1/2″ x 21″ (Vertical Cubby Dividers) C) 1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 52″ x 21 1/2″ (Top) D) 2 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @15″ x 21″ (Sides) E) 1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 50 1/2″ x 21″ (Bottom Shelf) F) 1 – 1/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 52″ x 15 3/4″ (Back) G) 2 – 1×2 @ 13″ (Cubby Top Trim Pieces) H) 1 – 1×2 @ 23″ (Center Top Trim Piece) I) 1 – 2 1/2″ Base Moulding @ 52″ (Base Moulding)

Cutting Instructions

Because you will most likely be building multiple pieces from this collection, I will not be providing a plywood cutting layout. To build your own plywood cutting layout, simply make a list of all the pieces you need, group the pieces into same width sizes, and layout on graph paper. By grouping into same width sizes, you will minimize your number of cuts. Also, layout your larger pieces first, then work with your smaller pieces.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Cut all your boards first. Make sure you cut your plywood perfectly square. Mark out with the square where each board will be fastenend to other boards. If you are fastening with screws, predrill and countersink your screws. If you are using MDF avoid fastening within 1″ of the edges of the MDF. Also predirll the entire length of your screw to avoid the MDF from splitting. Use drywall screws with MDF (drywall screws have a straigh shaft and will not split the MDF). I have had success with finish nails and MDF – just make sure you use lots of glue. Because this collection is frameless, my recommendation is to use screws over nails. Use the 2″ fasteners unless otherwise directed. Check for square after each step. Work on a clean level surface.

Instructions

Step 1

Center Cubby. Attach the center shelf (A) to the cubby sides (B, Green), as shown above. Please note that the placement of the center shelf can be adjusted to your specific needs. You could also add another shelf if you for example had multiple DVD players and gaming consoles.

Step 2

Top, C. Attach the top, C, shown in Green above, to the vertical cubby dividers, B. Mark out the dimensions first. Also, keep back edges flush. The front of the top will overhang 1/2″.

Step 3

Sides, D. Fasten the sides in place as shown above. Remember, keep the back edges flush. The top will overhang 1/2″.

Step 4

Bottom Shelf, E. Fasten the bottom shelf in place as shown above. Make sure you fasten through the sides and also to both of the vertical cubby dividers. Keep the bottom flush with the vertical dividers and the sides.

Step 5

Step 6

Trim Pieces, G and H. Attach the trim pieces, G and H as shown above in green. First fasten the pieces G (the shorter trim pieces) to the tops of the cubbies. Make sure you fasten through the sides and vertical cubby dividers into the end edges of G. Then fasten H in place to the top, using the 1 1/4″ fasteners. You may also wish to fasten pieces G to the top using the 1 1/4″ fasteners.

Step 7

Base Moulding. Fasten the base moulding to the bottom, as shown above.

Comments

Ana White (not verified)

Tue, 01/12/2010 - 09:19

ooooops! I meant to scedule the post of this plan while I'm on vacation! Too, late, glad to share it with you!

Enjoy, Ana

Andrea (not verified)

Tue, 01/12/2010 - 10:03

Oh my gosh! I'm so SO SO SO glad I found your blog. I do have to say my husband might hate you though. ;) I wish I'd found your blog sooner. This Christmas I designed a play kitchen for my son around Pottery Barn's Gourmet Kitchen set. There was no way I was paying that much for it, plus mine fits the dimensions of the space I had and the fridge is chalkboard and magnetic with soft closing freezer & broiler drawers for storage etc. But it took me forever to figure out the plans and we had a few missteps along the way. BUT it was SO worth it! I'm so glad I found your blog so I can create all SORTS of this stuff! :) THANK YOU again! It took me forever to make the plans for our kitchen, it can't be that easy to make and post all these plans all the time!
~Andrea

lanisanford (not verified)

Tue, 01/12/2010 - 11:28

I'm glad to know you are scheduling posts! :D don't know what I'd do while you were on vaca. Nail gun is supposed to arrive today! whoot whoot!

MrsOrtelle (not verified)

Tue, 01/12/2010 - 13:39

I wish I had a space in my house where this would fit! LOVE your plans! Keep 'em coming! ;)

~ RM (not verified)

Tue, 01/12/2010 - 20:21

I am passing a blog award along to you! No pressure to accept, but I wanted you to know I enjoy your blog, and i was thinking of you!

Gina (not verified)

Mon, 01/18/2010 - 08:34

AMAZING!!!! I have already shared your blog with a whole bunch of friends that are following you on facebook! :)
I am wondering though, would it work and look ok to have 2 wide media bases stacked on top of each other? My husband and I prefer that the tv be higher but I LOVE this set-up! I would love to get your opinion! :)
THANKS!!!

Anonymous (not verified)

Mon, 01/18/2010 - 09:01

I LOVE your blog, so glad I found it off of Shanty 2 Chic! The wheels are turning! I love this storage unit. I don't have a playroom, but I do have lots of kids stuff in my Family Room, so this would be perfect...any ideas how to dress it up a little bit? I also was wondering about making the TV up a little higher, any suggestions?
[email protected]
Amy

Jan (not verified)

Tue, 01/26/2010 - 09:57

Wow, I just find your blog and it got me excited. My dad is retired and loves working with wood. Seems like a fun father/daughter project. Oh probably more like a father/son-n-law project since I'd likely rope my hubby in on it too.

Joel (not verified)

Sat, 11/06/2010 - 09:36

Ana - Love the plans on your site. I plan to build the Cubby Storage Wall Collection but the link appears to be broken. I have searched and searched, but can not find them. Can you redirect me as to where I can find the plans? Much appreciated.

Thanks again.
Joel

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 07/08/2011 - 13:22

I just bought something similar to this from Ashley Furniture...spent a lot more. Wish I would have seen this earlier! Thanks for the post!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!