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Fancy Arch Bed

diy arched wood bed
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This fancy arched bed will make a glamorous statement in your bedroom! Plans are for queen sized bed.  Free step by step plans with diagrams from Ana-White.com

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Fancy Arch Bed

Dimensions
Fancy Arch Bed
Fits Queen, 58" to the center

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 14 – 1×4 Boards, 8′ Long Furring Strips are the cheapest, but select good straight boards
  • 12 – 1×3 Boards, 8′ Long Furring Strips are cheapest
  • 2 – 1×2 Boards, 8′ Long Furring Strips are cheapest
  • 2 – 1×10, 8′ Length
  • 1 – 1×10, 6′ Length
  • 1 – 1×8, 6′ Length
  • 1 - 2×6, 8′ or Stud Length
  • 2″ Screws (self tapping star bit)
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
Common Materials
1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

CUT LIST for the HEADBOARD

  • 10 – 1×4 @ 57 3/4″ (Panel Pieces)
  • 8 – 1×4 @ 47 34″ (Legs)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 8″ (Leg Support Pieces)

CUT LIST FOR THE BED FRAME

  • 2 – 1×10 @ 81 1/2″ (Side Rails)
  • 1 – 1×10 @ 60″ (Foot Rail)
  • 1 – 1×8 @ 60″ (Headboard Rail)
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 17 1/2″ (Outer Leg)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 8″ (Inner support leg)

CUT LIST FOR THE PLATFORM

  • 1 – 2×6 @ 60″ (Center Support)
  • 12 – 1×3 @ 60″ (Slats)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface with straight boards (especially important for the headboard panel). Predrill and countersink yours screws. Use glue for every joint, unless the joint is a disassembly point. Be safe, have fun!

Instructions

Step 1

PANEL With a Kreg Jig™, join all of the panel board together, starting in the middle and working your way out. Make sure you alternate the grain of the boards (look at the end edges and alternate bark side up, bark side down) so that the panel doesn’t warp to one side. Try to keep the bottoms flush as you create this panel. But when you put the final two boards on (the green boards) check for square by taking a square from the outermost corners of the green boards to the opposite dimensional on the opposite green board. For those of you who do not have a Kreg Jig™, it is possible to use 1x2s glued and nailed to the back in a perpendicular direction to hold your boards together (use 1 1/4″ nails) but you will run into an issue of not being able to keep the boards connected at the top edges (where the top curves, see below diagram).

Step 2

SCALLOPED PATTERN Using the Measurements shown above, mark the points listed from the coordinates shown. Then from each point draw an arch between those points (alternating up and down as shown in the pattern). You can use a variety or round objects, I use lids, buckets, and even take to freehand when necessary. When you are happy with the pattern, carefully cut one side, SAVING YOUR PIECES. Then take the scraps and use them to draw the pattern on the other side of the headboard. Cut the other side of the headboard to match.

Step 3

BED FRAME You can click images for a larger view. Begin by building your box of 1x10s and the 1×8 for the front. Keep top edges flush (simply build the box upside down, with the 1×8 coming up shy 2″ on it’s end). Use 2″ screws and glue. Flip over and add the cleats. If you have a box spring, fasten the cleats flush with the bottom edge of the siderails). If you DO NOT have a box spring, build as shown above, fastening your cleats 1″ from the tops of the siderails, and also the center support (the 2×6 board) 1″ from the top of the top and bottom boards, as shown above. The above view is a TOP VIEW for platform installation. Use 2″ screws and glue for the 2×6, 1 1/4″ screws and glue for the cleats.

Step 4

LEGS Cut an arch shape out of the legs as shown above. Then fasten with 1 1/4″ screws and glue to the end of the bed, as shown above, keeping outside and top edges flush.

Step 5

Step 6

HEADBOARD LEG SUPPORTS Use 1 1/4″ screws or nails to fasten the headboard leg support sin place as shown above.

Step 7

ASSEMBLY Assembly is super simple. Simply place the bed frame in line with the headboard, lining up the 1×8 frame board with the headboard leg supports. You can use 1 1/4″ screws, but you could also purchase bolts, nuts and washers to make the bed super easy to disassemble.

Step 8

SLATS If you choose the platform installation, lay the slats on top of the side rails and screw down. Do not use glue in this step.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
You may wish to disassemble the bed to finish pieces individually. Use wood filler to fill any exposed holes. Let dry completely. Then sand starting with a coarse, then medium, and finally fine, sand paper. For a painted finish, begin by priming. Paint with several coats of paint. You can see this post for step-by-step instructions on getting a multicolor distressed finish.
Project Type
Beds and Bed Frames
Room
Bedroom
Style
Cottage Style Furniture Plans

Comments

d&b photos (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 07:01

I LOVE it too! I saw in a blog someone that did a scalloped headboard out of corrugated metal but with a little boy, I dont think that is a good idea!

I wish that we had held off on making on of your other beds. Maybe we will give the other to my mom! I have to have this one!

Jenny (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 07:34

Wow! This is such a beautiful bed. I love how fancy the headboard is.

FlossyMaeRDA (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 09:01

That is amazing!! I can't wait to close on my new house ,so I can start building stuff!! I have a wood workshop that I am going to put to good use!

chona (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 09:03

do you fully comprehend how amazing you are? I know - you think this is easy once you've learned a few skills, but the confidence you've given so many to try something new is AMAZING! Thank you!!!

Rachelle (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 10:45

Love the headboard shape! I'm tempted to make this with a striped upholstered headboard to match my handmade quilt. Thanks!

Katie (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 11:40

Ana, I would be your bestestest friend ever and bring you ice cream and paint your toenails if you gave us some pointers on turning this GORGEOUS bed into a canopy version. :D

As always, you rock!

Andrea (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 11:48

Do you know how much I love you? :-) This is the exact bed I have saved in my bedroom ideas file I drool over every time I see it. I love - love - love you! Thank you beautiful. I am grateful. Can you tell?

Tanjia (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 12:59

I'd love a king sized version, too. Love you Ana! This is amazing and beautiful. I'm getting a jigsaw next pay cheque. Or renting one.

satakieli (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 13:03

This is absolutely stunning. I have to save this one for when our horrible IKEA bed finally falls apart!
The amount my son jumps on it i'm expecting it to collapse any day and I now have a reason to let him jump on it, haha!

Kristy (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 20:40

It would be awesome if you have a cutting template for the headboard and cutting measurements for the platform bed in king size. This bed is absolutely beautiful! thank you!

Laura (not verified)

Sun, 05/23/2010 - 03:08

I could not love this bed anymore!! I don't really NEED a bed, but I may have to replace one of the ones I have with this AMAZING bed. Thank you SOO much Ana!

Waner Family (not verified)

Sun, 05/23/2010 - 09:01

Oh my goodness!! ...absolutely beautiful!! This will MAKE my master bedroom! You just made my day (although these days, you make everyday!) I cannot thank you enough for your time, ideas, and inspiration! It is so greatly appreciated! Wood shopping time!

Allie (not verified)

Tue, 05/25/2010 - 12:06

Oh. My. God.

How are my husband and I going to choose which bed to build, now?!? Lol, I am sooooo grateful for this site! You have enabled us to make our own affordable furniture that is BEAUTIFUL and make our house look like a home. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!

Jess (not verified)

Thu, 05/27/2010 - 16:24

This bed is gorgeous! i know your busy, but is there any way you could tell us how to do this in a king size? I, along with others I'm sure, would LOVE that!

ekd (not verified)

Sat, 05/29/2010 - 07:09

I second the request for the canopy version. I'll start my bed project in the next few weeks. If you don't get to it, then I'll post what we come up with!

YOU ROCK ANA!

The Ratcliffe Gang (not verified)

Wed, 08/04/2010 - 12:47

How would I change the headboard panel numbers to make this for a single bed. It's so gothic looking and I was thinking black stain, distressed with silver or old stencilling (slightly distressed of course to look old) would be so cool for his room. But this will be only our second bed we've build and the other was very boxy... not sure how to approach adapting stuff yet.
Help! :o)

Blessings!

Jennifer (not verified)

Mon, 08/16/2010 - 10:33

We have no need for a new bed, ours is only 2 years old...BUT I'm listing it on craigslist right now so I can have this one instead!!!
Can you help us out on a King version PLEASE! ;)

Natalie Schuldt (not verified)

Mon, 08/30/2010 - 14:51

I know you're busy, but is there any easy guide to making this a king-sized? I'm assuming measuring my mattress and altering the plans to fit it would be the way to go... hopefully it doesn't get tricky!

ana (not verified)

Mon, 08/30/2010 - 16:10

Hi Natalie, someone did do this (look through our facebook photos) but it's not as easy as you would think because the pattern actually changes. My advice until I can get to the plans is to build a rough headboard out of 1x4s (don't worry about strength, a headboard is all about being pretty and offers no support to the bed) like in the queen bed, but use 24 1x4s instead of I believe 18. Then just start in the center and draw out a pattern. Once you are happy with one side, cut it, save your scraps, and cut the other side. Good luck, and hopefully, I will get to a plan soon!

Jill (not verified)

Thu, 12/09/2010 - 10:17

I love the room and the bed...but...think it should have been painted. Would look more feminine, IMO.

Julie 12 (not verified)

Thu, 05/19/2011 - 13:08

Has anyone made this into a twin size bed? I would love to make it into a twin!! Please share any advice. I've never made anything yet. Im so excited to start!

clairebear

Sat, 07/02/2011 - 17:03

Hi Ana!
So we've got the materials for the bed, all the wood is cut and we will start building in the a.m.

Question for you: With what tool do we make the scalloped arches? We don't have a saw. Or do we have them do it at Home Depot?

Total novice, so these things need to be spelt out for me.

Thanks so much, I hope to have pictures of a successful project1

tinab158 (not verified)

Sun, 07/03/2011 - 17:37

This may be a silly question, but what support do you use if you plan to use a box spring?

The plans say NOT to use the slats if you're using a box spring. The plans also say to secure the 1x2's to the bottom of the side rails..this I understand. However, is the box spring supposed to rest only on the 1x2's which are screwed into the 1x10 side rails? This doesn't seem like much support...? Help...I can't wait to start building, but I want to be sure it's safe to use.

Jay (not verified)

Thu, 08/04/2011 - 18:02

Hello Ana,
I'm planning on starting to build this bed. I wanted to second the question about what tool you use to cut the arches into the headboard. Would a hand saw work? I'm super new and this will be my first project, I'm excited =). If anyone else reading this knows the answer, I'd appreciate a response. Thanks for your help!

aprice24

Wed, 07/29/2015 - 08:02

I'm building it now and using a jigsaw for the arches.  the handsaw should work for the most part but the actual curves of the arches might be difficult with the hand saw.  You may be able to get the rough shape and then sand the curves more into curve shapes though.

Guest Bernadette (not verified)

Fri, 04/13/2012 - 05:17

Where oh where did you get that bedding? Been searching high and low for a nice damask print bed set to no avail. The only one that looked decent was a $300 set for comforter and pillow shams only!

Love the bed frame design toooooo, of course!! :-)

Autum (not verified)

Fri, 07/06/2012 - 08:22

I just finished building a king size headboard using this as inspiration. I did not make a whole bed, just the headboard. I used 1"x8" rough cut pine boards. They actually measure 7.25" instead of 8". I used 11 boards and my headboard is just shy of 80". A perfect fit for my king size bed. Hope this helps anyone wanting to make this beautiful bed in a king.

Thank you so much Ana for the hard work you do that inspires novices like me to build my own beautiful headboard.

aprice24

Wed, 07/29/2015 - 06:59

I'm a little bit confused and was hoping someone might be able to explain it to me.  I am in the middle of building this bed (thank you, the design is beautiful and the instructions have been great) but I noticed while working that there is a lot of math on these plans that doesn't add up.  For instance, the headboard pannels show that the 10 - 57 and 3/4" pannels that you use in the middle should be 35" accross, but they are 1x4" pannels so they would be 40" (there's 10 ... 10x4= 40).  looking at the measurements of the rest of the headboard, this changes a lot.  instead of being 63" from leg to leg, it is actually 72" (40" mentioned above, plus the additional 8 - 1x4" pannels - 8x4= 32 and 32+40=72").

I guess I am worried that I missed something.  or are the numbers off but these plans will still fit a queen sized bed? I'm just worried that with an extra 9", the bed will be too big for a queen sized mattress.  Please help!!!

aprice24

Wed, 07/29/2015 - 15:28

also, the wood for the cleats is not accounted for anywhere in the cut list.  make sure that you have 80" of 1x2 (2, one for each side) to make the cleats to upport the slats.

jbay817

Wed, 07/29/2015 - 16:08

The reason the math isn't adding up is because the boards aren't the same size that they say they are. Most wood that you buy comes in a nominal size (i.e. 2x4, 1x2,1x4, etc.), however this is NOT the actual dimensions of the wood! It has something to do with how it is milled and dried. Anyways.... boards have a dimensional/actual size and in your case the 1x4 boards that you have are actually about 0.75 x 3.5 inches in dimension! This explains why 10 1x4s are not 40inches, but are instead 35" because 10x3.5" = 35". When measuring out boards width or depth-wise, you have to be super careful to consider they are not the simple 1x2 or 2x4 inches. Hope this helps!

aprice24

Thu, 07/30/2015 - 11:53

Thank you! I measured them last night and I thought math just stopped working altogether because low and behold, mine measured 63"!  This makes much more sense!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!