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Farmhouse Bed with Arch

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Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 11/20/2009 - 23:48
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Special thanks to Julianne for sharing her photo. Add a touch of fancy to our Farmhouse Beds with this modification.

Collections
Farmhouse Beds
Dimensions
Queen - can easily convert to other sizes

Preparation

Shopping List

Shopping List for Queen - see other Farmhouse House Beds for different sizes that can be converted to an arch with this technique
6 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
7 - 1x4 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x10 @ 6 feet long
2 - 4x4 posts, 8 feet long
2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length
2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length

Common Materials
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

A) 11 – 1×6 @ 30″ (panels for the headboard)
B) 11 – 1×6 @ 15″ (panels for the footboard)
C) 7 - 1×4 @ 60 1/2″ (top and bottom trim for the headboard and footboard panels)
D) 1 – 1×10 @ 60 1/2″ (arch cutout for the arched header)
E) 2 – 4×4 posts @ 54 1/2″ (Headboard posts)
F) 2 – 4×4 posts @ 21″ (Footboard Posts
G) 2 – 2×4 @ 67 1/2″ (Top of Panels and Posts for Footboard and Headboard)
H) 2 – 2×6 @ 69 1/2″ (Top of Headboard and Footboard)

Siderails and Frame Pieces (optional if you have a bed frame)

I) 2 – 2×4 @ 84 3/4″ (Cleats for the Siderails)
J) 1 – 2×4 @ 57″ (Footboard piece of the frame)
K) 2 – 1×10 @ 80″ (Siderails)

Cutting Instructions

This plan assumes that your 1x6s are 5 1/2" wide. Measure yours - if they are not, you could find your panel is short or long on your panel trim. Adjust accordingly. Best advice is to not cut any boards until after you have constructed and measured your panel boards.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Start with 2 of the pieces C, the 1×4 trim pieces. Begin by lining up the panel pieces for the headboard, A, on top of the 2 trim pieces, C, as shown above. Use glue and 1 1/4″ nails to nail through the panel pieces, A, into the back side of C. Check for square (visit the HOW-TO section to learn how to check for square). Nail all 11 headboard pieces to the back side of C.

Do the same for the footboard, this time using the panel pieces B, and two more of the 1×4 trim pieces, C.

Step 2

Your Headboard and Footboard panels should look like the above diagram. Make sure these panels are square.

Step 3

Begin with piece D, and cut out with a jigsaw the desired arch. The arch used above begins 5 1/2″ on either end and reaches up 6″ at the highest point in the center. After the arch is cut out of the header piece, D, for the headboard, flip the larger panel over, as shown above, and secure the header piece, D, as shown above, using 2″ nails and glue. Keep all outside edges flush.

Step 4

Mark the 4×4 posts 5/8″ in on either end on the side that will be connected to the center panel. Line up the center panel with these marks to center the panel on the 4×4 post as shown above. Predrill 1/2 way through the post and then screw with 4 1/2″ screws through the predrilled hole into the center panel. Make sure you are lining up your screws with the panel where it is sandwiched 3 boards thick.
Do the same with the footboard pieces, using the shorter posts and the footboard panel.

Step 5

Step 6

Then add H, the 2×6 top piece, as shown above, over pieces G, to both the headboard and footboard. There will be a 1″ overhand on all sides.

Step 7

Attach the cleats (I), as shown above, with the bottom edge 9 1/2″ from the bottom. Predrill and use long screws to secure, 4 screws per cleat.

Step 8

Next add the end piece for the cleats, J, inset to the cleats as shown above. Use long screws, 3 per end, predrilling through the cleat (I) into the end edges of J.

Step 9

Now position the footboard so that piece J lays flush with the panel piece, as shown above. Use 2″ screws to screw through J into the footboard, screwing all the way down J. Make sure the cleats are level.

Step 10

Here is a view from behind the headboard.

Add the siderail pieces, keeping the bottom edge of the siderail, K, flush with the cleats (I). Use screws to screw from the inside of the cleat, through the cleat and into the siderail. Predrill and use 2″ screws, screwing down the length of the siderail.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill screw holes with putty, sand and finish as desired.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Project Type
Beds and Bed Frames
Room
Bedroom

Comments

Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 11/23/2009 - 23:16

If you do not have a box spring, you can screw 2x2s or 2x4s with 1" space between each as slats to rest your mattress on. Just cut the slats at 60 1/2" and lay perpendicular to the cleats, and screw into the cleats from the top. Just saved you $500 dollars!

Isabel (not verified)

Mon, 01/11/2010 - 09:36

Ana, thank you for sharing your amazing talent! I love furniture and I love to make stuff. I am so grateful that you are sharing your talent with all of us! I cant wait to start bulding some furniture, specially this farmhouse bed that I could never afford store-bought!

courteneykay (not verified)

Wed, 01/13/2010 - 16:44

hey, just to clarify, the plans for the farmhouse bed assume that you do have a box spring, right?

Ana White (not verified)

Wed, 01/13/2010 - 17:29

This plans assumes that you have a boxspring. But if you do not have a box spring, you can simply raise the cleats (the 2x4s on the inside of the siderails) to the desired height and run slats acrossed the top of the cleats. The spacing and thickness of your slats will depend on your wood type. I would say if you are using pine, use 2x2s spaced 2" appart.

Michelle and Landon (not verified)

Mon, 01/18/2010 - 12:58

SO amazing Im in love! What would you have to do to make this bed for a king size mattress?

Kathy (not verified)

Tue, 01/19/2010 - 10:36

Maybe I'm not understanding correctly, but #13 says:

13. Add the siderail pieces, keeping the bottom edge of the siderail, K, flush with the cleats (I). Use screws to screw from the inside of the cleat, through the cleat and into the siderail. Predrill and use 2" screws, screwing down the length of the siderail.

What I am not getting is this: if the cleats are 2" thick, how will 2" screws be able to get through the cleat and into the siderail to properly hold the siderail?

Thanks in advance and I apologize if I'm "just not getting it"! :)

Ana White (not verified)

Tue, 01/19/2010 - 10:42

Hi Kathy, it's not you, it's the dimensional lumber. A 2x4 actually measures 1 1/2" x 3 1/2". A 1x10 is actually only 3/4" thick. So when you screw through the 1x2 you will have at least 1/2" left over on the screw, adding to the amount you countersinked the screw in. You do not want the screw to show all the way through. Also, the side rails are mostly decorative and not for main support, so you won't need long fasteners.

Hope this helps!

Ana

Kathy (not verified)

Tue, 01/19/2010 - 12:54

Yes, Ana it helps a lot!

Guess it would have helped if I had actually gone to the lumber store and became educated!

Thank you for your time!

rushtonfamily (not verified)

Wed, 01/27/2010 - 08:32

I am soooo excited to have found your site. We are getting ready to make the queen bed and I have one question. The box spring I have is about 8" tall. With the use of 2x4s for the cleats there will about 2"of the box spring that will show. What would be the best way to change this?
I can't wait to get building some of the fantastic things you have posted!!
Thanks!

Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 01/28/2010 - 07:32

If you need your cleats to be shorter so your boxspring will not show, use 2x2s instead of 2x4s. This will give you a little more clearance (about 2"). Or you can make your siderails out of 1x12s instead of 1x10s. This would also give you 2" of extra coverage over the box spring.