Farmhouse Kitchen Island

Farmhouse Kitchen Island
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This sturdy Farmhouse style kitchen island features two drawers and a large bottom shelf. Solid wood legs.

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Farmhouse Kitchen Island

26" x 60" x 30" Tall

Preparation

Shopping List

1 Sheet of 3/4″ MDF or Plywood 1 – 12′ 4×4 Post 1 – 8′ 2×8 Board 1 – 12′ 1×8 Board 1 – 8′ 2×2 Board 4 - 8′ 1×4 Boards 2 – Sets of 21″ Side Mount Drawer Slides 2″ Screws 3″ Screws Wood Glue Wood Putty Sandpaper

Cut List

A) 4 – 4×4 Posts @ 34 1/2″ (Legs) B) 4 – 1×3 @ 7 1/2″ (Spacers) C) 2 – 1×8 @ 17″ (Side Aprons) D) 3- 2×8 @ 21 1/4″ (Top Support and Center Divider) E) 2 – 2×2 @ 17″ (Bottom Supports, Outside) F) 2 – 2×2 @ 20″ (Bottom Supports, Inside) G) 1 – 1×8 @ 51 3/4″ (Back Apron) H) 2 – 1×2 @ 51 3/4″ (Bottom Front and Back Supports) I) 2 – 1×4 @ 17″ (Side Trim for Bottom Shelf) J) 2 – 1×4 @ 51 3/4″ (Front and Back Trim for Bottom Shelf) K) 1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 21 1/2″ x 55″ (Bottom Shelf) Notched out corners L) 2 – 1×2 @ 51 3/4″ (Front Face Trim, Horizontal) M) 3 – 1×2 @ 4 1/2″ (Front Face Trim, Vertical) N) 1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 26″ x 60 3/4″ (Top) Drawer Cut List Approximations (Cut Drawers to fit your glides and openings) O) 2 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 21 1/8″ x 19 1/2″ (Drawer Bottoms) P) 4 – 1×4 @ 21 1/8″ (Drawer Fronts and Backs – shown in purple) Q) 4 – 1×4 @ 21″ (Drawer Sides) R) 2 – 1×8 @ 25 7/8″ (Drawer Faces – CUT TO FIT)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

This is not a beginner project. Check for square after every step. Use 2″ screws and glue unless otherwise directed. Work on a clean level surface. Measure and cut your boards to your project to get the best fit. Build your drawers according to the recommendations of the drawer slides. Predrill and countersink all of your screws before fastening.

Instructions

Step 1

Spacer. Attach the spacers, B, to the legs, as shown above. Notice how the spacers are not all located in the same position on each leg. Take not of where each leg will be place when fastening the spacer.

Step 2

Side Apron. Fasten the side apron to the spacers, as shown above.

Step 3

Top Support. Use 3″ screws to fasten the top support to the legs, as shown above. Use the above measurements to guide you. Notice the 1 3/4″ difference on the sides, as shown above.

Step 4

Top Support. Use 3″ screws to fasten the top support to the legs, as shown above. Use the above measurements to guide you. Notice the 1 3/4″ difference on the sides, as shown above.

Step 5

Step 6

Back Apron. Use the 2″ screws and glue to fasten the back apron in place as shown above. Use glue and make sure you square everything up.

Step 7

Bottom Front and Back Supports, H. Fasten the bottom front and back supports to the side supports, as shown above. If you plan on having heavy objects on the bottom shelf, I recommend adding a couple of 2×2 supports cut at 20″ between the boards H. Don’t forget to take a square of the project.

Step 8

Bottom Front and Back Supports, H. Fasten the bottom front and back supports to the side supports, as shown above. If you plan on having heavy objects on the bottom shelf, I recommend adding a couple of 2×2 supports cut at 20″ between the boards H. Don’t forget to take a square of the project.

Step 9

Bottom Shelf. Notch out the corners of the bottom shelf to fit, as shown above. Then place on the bottom shelf. Fasten in place.

Step 10

Center Drawer Divider. Using your remaining board D, Use 3″ screws to fasten the divider in place. You must make sure this board is placed square. Any out of square joints will cause your drawers to not glide smoothly.

Step 11

Face Trim. Start by fastening with 2″ fasteners the boards L in place. Make sure you fasten to the middle divider, being certain that the middle divider has remained in place from step 10. Then fasten the boards M in place.

Step 12

Top. Fasten the top in place. You will want to fasten to the trim from step 11, the legs, and aprons, and the supports, boards D (the 2x8s). Center the top, leaving a 1″ overhang on all sides. You may wish to add the top after you have built and inserted the drawers.

Step 13

Drawers. Read the instructions from the drawer slides before attempting to build your drawers. The above measurements are expecting you to use side mount drawer slides that need 1/2″ clearance on the drawer sides. I recommend measuring your openings and building your drawers to fit your openings.

YOU MUST CUT YOUR BOTTOM PLYWOOD PERFECTLY STAIGHT. Then fasten the front and back of the drawers (made of 1x4s) to the drawer bottom. Then fasten the sides to the bottom and front and back. Then use your drawer guides to fit your drawers into the drawer openings.
Once your drawers are set in place, measure and cut your drawer faces. Mark the center of the drawer face and add a 1/8″ deep cut to the center, creating the look of 2 drawers. Then position the faces on the drawers and nail in place using 1 1/4″ nails and glue. Use just a couple of nails per drawer face, avoiding the area where you will place pulls or knobs. Then pull the drawers out and use screws to fasten from the inside of the drawer into the drawer face.

Comments

onlymehere (not verified)

Tue, 02/09/2010 - 03:34

No matter how hard I try I can't print out your plans. I really want to make this island but use it as a cutting table for sewing. I'm not a novice craftsman either but I don't have a computer in my workshop that I can keep running to to make this and need to print the plans :) Any information you can give me would be appreciated! Also when I click on your plans button nothing shows. Cindy

jennie (not verified)

Tue, 02/09/2010 - 04:30

for onlymehere - i just copy and paste the blog entry into a word document, delete anything i don't need, and print them that way. you can add your own page breaks, which i do to separate out each step so i don't have to flip back and forth between pages constantly.

Annalea (not verified)

Tue, 02/09/2010 - 06:14

Yet another simple and well-built plan. Thanks so much!

I've been wondering why you use face-framed drawers, instead of European-style drawers which allow for more storage overall. Does the front drawer trim add something structurally? Is there a way to modify the instructions to allow for an open drawer bay?

It's so frustrating to put something in a drawer that is just barely too tall, when you know that it's only the trim that's getting in the way, and there's plenty of height behind the trim.

All My Yesterdays (not verified)

Tue, 02/09/2010 - 06:51

Haven't commented much, but always come to see what you've created. You are so talented and I love that you share it all with everyone. Thanks!

Gen M. (not verified)

Tue, 02/09/2010 - 06:58

Hi Ana! I love love love your blog! I am a novice and I have not build anything yet but I look everyday and I think my first project will be the storage bench thing.
Have you ever though about rating your projects like a 1, 2 or 3 for super easy to slightly more complex? Since I have never build anything it would be great to click on "super easy" and see all the projects I could start with. Just a suggestion.
Keep up the good work!!!!!! Gen

Anonymous (not verified)

Wed, 02/24/2010 - 11:17

This is next on my list to tackle! I am turning it into a project/scrap table for my kitchen dining area so I can work on stuff while the kids are playing and in between chores! THanks so much for all of your hard work!

Erin K
[email protected]

Karen (not verified)

Thu, 03/11/2010 - 05:40

I was wondering if you think I could make the william sonoma kitchen island type piece bigger...using same ideas different dimensions of course..maybe 72 inches lon and still be sturdy to support the upper shelving...thank you for all you do you are really a pistol...I mean that is a very good way ..Karen

Rose (not verified)

Wed, 10/06/2010 - 15:12

I'm so inspired! I know you hear that every day, but wow! How do you do it all? I'm staying at home with a 3yr old and have another in 3rd grade, and it's all I can do to keep the dishes and laundry done and the floor swept! I'm feeling guilty for just spending time looking through all these plans while the toys lay on the floor...yikes! Do you just have a super amount of energy, or a super helper, or both? Either way, great work. Thanks for all this fantastic diy fodder. It really keeps hope alive for me!

Angela (not verified)

Thu, 12/30/2010 - 12:08

I am so excited about trying this plans out. I just got some tools for Christmas. I come from a family of wood crafters, so I hope I can follow in their footsteps. This will be step 1 in my New Year's Resolution! Thanks so much for sharing your fabulous ideas!

ps- I spent the last hour adding to my "to-do list".

cate (not verified)

Fri, 01/28/2011 - 16:58

Why is this not catalogued under kitchens???? I'm desperate to rejig my island and this has given me some ideas!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!