Farmhouse Kitchen Island & Bar Plans

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A farmhouse style island featuring a bar and two large cubboards with shelves, three shelves and a large drawer.

This was inspired because I hate chairs in my kitchen and I needed a place to store my silpats & rolling pins.

I would like to say that this is marked as advanced purely because of how many cuts you have to double check the measurements on. Seriously check them twice because all board widths are slightly different.photosmall
This was inspired because I hate chairs in my kitchen and I needed a place to store my silpats & rolling pins.

I would like to say that this is marked as advanced purely because of how many cuts you have to double check the measurements on. Seriously check them twice because all board widths are slightly different.

Dimensions
Dimensions: 24″ wide 60″ long 35.5″ tall

Preparation

Shopping List

(7) 1×4 16′ long
(1) 1×6 8′ long
(3) 1×12 16′ long
(7) 1×2 6′ long
(1) 4″ post 8′ long OR (2) turned stair banisters
(1) 2′x5′ butcher block
(2) Sets door hinges
whatever other hardware you want, I used 2 handles for the top drawer.
*Note purchasing already turned stair banisters will move this project up into the $200 range.*

Cut List

16 – 1 x 4 @ 33.25″ Back slats
2 – 1 x 4 @ 56″ (measure first) Back trim
2 – 1 x 12 @ 33.25″ Sides
2 – 1 x 12 @ 54.5″ (Measure first) Top & bottom shelf
2 – 1 x 12 @ 25″ Shelf Dividers
2 – 1 x 12 @ 18″ Side Shelves
2 – 1 x 12 @ 17″ (measure first) Center Shelves
2 – 1 x 2 @ 31.75″ Front Side Trim
2 – 1 x 2 @ 27.75″ Center Front Trim
2 – 1 x 2 @ 16.5″ Side Shelf Trim
2 – 1 x 2 @ 17″ (Measure first) Center Shelf Trim
1 – 1 x 2 @ 56″ (Measure first) Drawer trim
4 – 1 x 4 @ 21″ Side trim
2 – 4 x 4 or Turned Stair banister @ 33.25″
1 – 1 x 4 @ 56″ (measure first) Back skirting
2 – 1 x 4 @ 5.5″ Leg support
2 – 1 x 4 @ 7.25″ Leg support
2 – 1 x 4 @ 59″ Top support
2 – 1 x 4 @ 16″ Side Top Support
1 – 1 x 2 @ 52″ (measure first) Center Top support
10 – 1 x 4 @ 25.5 Door slats
4 – 1 x 2 @ 17.5 (measure first) Door Trim
Optional, 2 – 1 x 2 @ measurement Door “Z” trim
1 – 1 x 12 @ 50″ Drawer bottom
1 – 1 x 4 @ 50″ Drawer back
2- 1 x 4 @ 12.25″ Drawer sides
1 1 x 6 @ 53.75″ (measure first) Drawer front

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set

Instructions

Step 1

Lay Back slats side by side, keeping square.
Measure total distance across and adjust the back trim cut. Round up to the nearest 1/4″ if you have to.
Set aside, we will attach these later, to help keep everything square.

I recommended using wood screws to build the frame.

Mark 5.5″ from top and 1.25″ from bottom of Sides
Double check that the top & bottom shelf are cut 1.5″ less than the back trim.
Attach top shelf so that the top of the shelf is 5.5″ from the top of the side.
Attach bottom Shelf so that the bottom of the shelf is 1.25″ from the bottom of the side.

Attach Shelf Dividers to top and bottom shelf, 18″ from the side.

Measure Center space to double check center shelf cut.

Insert and attach side shelves and center shelves as shown in the diagram.

* Note, When I built this , I left out one side shelf so that i could fit my garbage can inside. Feel free to position the shelves as needed*

Step 2

* note If you want to get a more rustic look sand down & shape vertical edges of slats before attaching them*

For the remainder of the instructions I recommend using a nail gun if you have it. Use nails that won’t show through on the other side.

Now that the frame is constructed, attach the back slats and then attach the back trim.

Step 3

Next take the front Side trim and attach it so the edges are flush with the sides.

Attach the center front trim so that the inner edges are flush with the center shelves. There should be no trim hangover in the center shelves.

Step 4

Attach top side shelf trims so that the top is flush with the upper side of the top shelf.

Attach bottom side shelf trim so that the bottom is flush with the lower side of the bottom shelf.

Measure space between center front trim to check the center shelf trim cut.

Attach upper most center trims so that the top of the trim is flush with the upper side of the center shelves.

Attach bottom most center trim so that the bottom is flush with the lower side of the bottom shelf.

Attach top trim so that it rests above the side trim, see diagram.

Step 5

Step 6

Double check distance between upper side trims and adjust back skirting cut. Attach back skirting in line with side trim.

For the leg supports, attach the 7.25″ long one to inside of posts or banisters, aligned with the floor. The edge touching the island will have to be glued.

The 5.5″ leg supports then attach to the ends of the posts or banister, align with side trim and inner leg support.

Step 7

Center Top supports along front and back of island. Center Side Top Supports along Side Trim. Check to make sure everything is square and attach.

Inset Center top support along center (back slats) of island & attach.

Center Butcher Block & Attach. I used screws and drilled up from the top supports so that they didn’t show.

Step 8

Island Doors:

Make 2

* note If you want to get a more rustic look sand down & shape vertical edges of slats before attaching them*

Lay door slats next to each other & measure to double check door trim measurement
Attach door trim 3 ” from top and bottom to door slats.

Optional “Z” trim
Take a 1×2 and cut one end at a 45 degree angle. Place it across the door slats, between the door trim and mark the other end. Cut at 45 degree angle and attach.

Step 9

Island Drawer:

Attach drawer back to drawer bottom so that the drawer back next to, not on top of the drawer bottom
Attach drawer sides
Double check drawer front measurement.
To attach the drawer front, set the drawer inside the island and mark where it should line up.
Attach drawer front

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
Fill holes with putty & Sand. Finish as desired.

I used a deep cornflower blue (sorry exact name is forgotten) for my base, then sanded the edges down. I then put Minwax Ebony stain over the whole thing and wiped it off. This was a mistake, as stain never dries over paint. I would suggest if you want to get the same look use a glaze.
I finished everything up with 2 coats of polyurethane. (Which btw will seal in the stain just fine if you make a mistake like I did)

Comments

Ana White (not verified)

Fri, 01/07/2011 - 18:32

Leslie, you are just beyond amazing! I about fell out of my chair when I saw your island! Thank you so much for sharing your plan. I guess I better get used to being outbuilt AND outdesigned! You've got some serious talent!

Lorilyn (not verified)

Fri, 01/07/2011 - 18:49

I was JUST drawing up plans to do a built-in bathroom cupboard system and I wanted to do barnyard-esque rustic doors on it but wasn't exactly sure how I wanted to execute them. I love how you did yours and will totally and completely copy yours now. Thanks for the inspiration!

Lindsey (not verified)

Fri, 01/07/2011 - 18:53

So pretty! Giving me inspiration for the house we hope to buy this year!

Kim (not verified)

Fri, 01/07/2011 - 19:22

Looks great! Been looking for an island plan that we could make. Do you think you could put wheels on it in order to keep it mobile?

Nina (not verified)

Fri, 01/07/2011 - 20:16

I am forever impressed by your humility, Ana! No matter how awesomely talented you get, you always give other people more credit than you take for yourself....which of course, only adds to Ana Awesomeness!!!!!! haha