House Play Table with Angled Desktop

house desk for kids
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

This little house shaped play table features and angled desktop perfect for coloring or drawing.  Flip it around for storage and a flat work surface.  Our free DIY plans make it easy to build - step by step plans with diagrams and shopping list from Ana-White.com

For the past 7 years, Jaime Costiglio and I have been teaming up every fall for a collaboration we call Handbuilt Holiday

Here's how it works - Jaime and I get our heads together and come up with plan ideas (mostly Jaime here!), then I create the sketchup plan, and then Jaime builds and photographs it.  

We love this series so much, and have found much joy in creating the plans.  You an see all the projects from the past seven years here.

We are kicking off Handbuilt Holiday 2019 today with a fun new project plan!

cute kids art desk

This house shaped desk features a storage area, and an angled drafting desktop.

hinge up storage

Jaime made her version extra fun by adding a hinge up top, so the supplies are within easy reach.  

So here's what to do:

Go check out Jaime's build post here, with more details, photos and the stool tutorial

Then grab the free plans below.

Happy Holidays!

Dimensions
dimensions for cute kids playtable
Dimensions shown in diagram

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 5 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 4 feet long
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 4' x 4'
Common Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 18" - long point to short point measurement, both ends cut at 45 degrees, ends ARE parallel
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 21-3/4" - longest point measurement, one end cut at 45 degrees
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 21"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 38-1/2"
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 38-1/2" x 16"
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 38-1/2"
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 38-1/2" x 23-1/4"

Pencil Holder

  • 2 - 1x4 @ 6" - longest point measurement, one end cut at 45 degree angle
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 2-1/2"
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 6" - longest point measurement, one end cut at 45 degree bevel

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Build two of the house ends as shown, using 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 2

Attach the two ends together with 2x2s using 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Drill 3/4" pocket hole about every 6" along all four edges of the smaller plywood panel and attach to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Attach 1x2 trim with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in step 3.

Step 5

Build the roof pencil holder out of 1x4 boards first, and glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Attach to the desktop from underneath with 1-1/4" brad nails or screws (yes, you can use pocket hole screws).  You only need a couple of fasteners to attach.

Step 6

Drill 3/4" pocket holes about every 6" on both shorter ends of the larger plywood panel. 

Attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws to the ends.

Step 7

Attach 2x2 underneath the plywood with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Also recommended is to attach the plywood panel with glue and 1-1/4" nails to the 2x2 underneath.

Seasonal And Holiday

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!