Letter Z Shelf

Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

Free plans to build your own giant letter Z shelf! Step by step instructions with diagrams, shopping list and cut list to build your own Z wall shelf!

Thank you all for the positive feedback on Beth's Giant Letter A Shelf!

I'm with many of you and have a daughter with a curved letter, G, so I'm still doing some thinking for you on how to construct those letters!

But you don't necessarily need to use these wall or bookshelves as monograms - every kid knows A and Z mean learning to read and letters! The letters are perfect for any playroom! 

Or perfect for that perfect shared kids room!  Beth today is unveiling her boy's room makeover and it includes the A and Z Letter Shelves from plans we worked on together! 

Want inspiration for your own boy's room?  You must check out Beth's complete room tour here - it is just out of this world - literally!  I especially love the planet mobile!  Lots of the projects in the room are DIY - go check it out now!

And of course, you can get the free letter Z plans right here!

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

2 – 1x6 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1/4” plywood 23 ½” x 29”
(for both A and Z letters buy a 1/2 sheet of 1/4" plywood)
1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
2” (could get away with smaller) finish nails and wood glue
Hanging Bracket/Hardware that attaches to back (HEAVY DUTY!!!!)

Cut List

4 – 1x6 @ 23 1/2"
2 – 1x6 @ 19 5/8” (long point to short point, both ends cut at 40 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel)
1 – 1x6 @ 9” (long point to short point, both ends cut at 40 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel)
6 – 1x6 @ 5 1/2"2

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Let's start on the inside and work outward! I recommend attaching with countersunk screws and glue. Glue, glue, glue!

Step 2

And then add the shelf. Note that you can add shelf at any height.

Step 3

You'll need to attach these shelf dividers with 3/4" PHs and 1 1/4" PH screws and glue.

Step 4

And finally attach the top and bottom shelf.

Step 5

Step 6

For hanging the shelves, I highly recommend adding some 1x2s inside the letter to give you something to screw directly into the wall into a stud in the wall. These shelves will be very very heavy and we don't want them falling off the wall! When you do hang it, it is very important to secure the structure of the letter (the 1x6s or the added 1x2 cleats) into a stud in the wall and use the appropriate hanging system for the weight of your shelf. Also consider added weight of shelf objects in hanging this shelf.

DISCLAIMER: This shelf will be heavy. Hang and use at your own risk.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

campm0m (not verified)

Wed, 10/17/2012 - 13:03

How did the "C" shelf turn out? I also need to make a "C" shelf. Any tips?

Huthbert

Tue, 10/09/2012 - 15:09

Thanks so much for the plans/inspiration! We just used the same basic concept for a letter H shelf!

Elise (not verified)

Tue, 11/20/2012 - 18:11

That letter bookshelf looks awesome! Any ideas how I could make a letter R?
Thanks

Rich Bullock (not verified)

Thu, 12/06/2012 - 10:50

I used your plans and built the Z shelf for our grandson, Zane, who is still on the way (due March 30, 2013).

I used primed MDF for the 1X6s. Nice to work with, and super straight. They were made for shelving, and had one of the long edges rounded. I sanded the matching edge round so the front edges of the shelf would look the same.

Got a chance to use the Kreg, pocket hole jig I bought awhile back. For the backing, I used 1/8" hardboard--just like pegboard except smooth.

I cut all the pieces at once with a 10" chop saw, following the plan measurements. During assembly, everything lined up pretty well.

Thanks for the plans. Now we're working on a J for our other grandson, Jaksen.

jhib1212

Wed, 10/01/2014 - 11:22

Love the letter shelf...my kids names are Noe, Nathan and Natalie. I know didn't start that way...blended family...we also have an Emily but she has left the nest...I may still make her one ;)

Any input on how to make an "N"...I was going to just rotate it 90° and call it a day but the mid section would be rough to store any goods in the middle...any suggestions?

Also which Kreg would you recommend to start with...I see they have a mini but I can also see that I will probably making more cool stuff as I seek and destroy.

Thanks for all the cool stuff...hope to hear from you soon.

Regards,

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!