This beautiful daybed will surprise you with it's easy to build plan. Features scalloped edges, moulding on the inside and out and finials. Easy to modify to a full size.
Image from Uli. Can you believe that Uli lives in the metric system, and converted this beautiful bed to different sized lumber! Amazing!
Another amazing photo from one of our readers!
My sister's name is Lydia Priscilla, so I thought Lydia would be a perfect name for this bed.
WHAT YOU CAN'T BUY As you probably know, Pottery Barn used to sell a beautiful Priscilla Dayed, but the bed is discontinued. And I have for years wanted to redesign the bed, to make in "buildable." And today, I think I have.
DREAMING OF THIS BED After putting together the post for the Swedish planked bed, then putting Grace to bed, I dreamed about scrolling with a jigsaw and using a Kreg Jig to build this bed. Because the major issue before having a Kreg Jig in my tool belt was connecting the beautiful scalloped corners to the side rails. Now we can easily do that!
IT'S EASIER THAN IT LOOKS Please don't let this bed intimidate you. If a jigsaw doesn't intimidate you, you, yes YOU, can build this bed. It's amazingly easy. For the trim, we are going to use store bought moulding, and then for the finials . . .
FINIALS? YEAH, WE'VE GOT A HACK FOR THAT For the finials, simply pick up a four curtain rod finials next time you are out shopping (unfinished preferred, but if you are painting, a spray coat of primer can get these babies ready for your bed). It will be easy to drill a simple hole on the tops of your daybed tops and screw these in.
Go ahead, click for a larger view. It's much easier than it looks, eh? Now I'm just going to put this out there, since I know most of you are Moms just like me. If you can figure out how to raise a baby, if you took a baby home from the hospital and the baby not only survived, but they thrived, then you can do this. This is NOTHING compared to the major project of raising kids. You've got the ability. Let's get building!
4 – Pieces of 2 1/4″ moulding, 7′ Length like this one
2 – Pieces of 2 1/4″ moulding, 8′ Length (same as above, a little longer)
2 – 1×10, 8′ Length
1 – Sheet of 3/4″ MDF
4 – 1×2 Boards
11 – 1×3 Boards
1 1/4″ Nails
1 1/4″ Screws
2 – 3/4″ MDF @ 40 1/2″ x 27″ (Panels)
4 – 1×2 @ 34 1/2″ (End Legs, ends tapered in step 1)
2 – 1×3 @ 37 1/2 (Bottom Panel Trim)
4 – 1×3 @ 34 1/2″ (Side Legs, ends tapered)
2 – 1×3 @ 42″ (Top of Ends)
2 – 2 1/4″ Base Moulding @ 37 1/2″ (Trim for outside of panel)
2 – 2 1/4″ Base Moulding @ 40 1/2″ (Trim for inside of panel)
4 – 3/4″ MDF @ 15″ x 15″ (Scalloped Sides)
2 – 1×10 @ 75″ (Siderails)
2 – 1×2 @ 75″ (Cleats)
14 – 1×3 @ 39″ (Slats)
4 – 2 1/4″ Moulding @ 73″ (Siderail Trim)
You can click any of the images for a larger view. Work on a clean level surface. Be careful as you are working with a nailer. Check for square and level after each step. When nailing into MDF, avoid fastening too close to the edges on the end grain side (practice on a piece of scrap MDF first). Use glue and be safe.
BUILDING THE BED FOR NATURAL WOOD FINISH
This bed is designed to be painted. You can create a stainable bed by using A1 plywood for the panels and joining two 3 – 1×6 @ 30″ together, then cutting the panel in half to get two panels, approximately 15″ x 16 1/2″ (use a Kreg Jig™ to join the panels). Then cut your scalloped shape from these panels. Do not attempt to iron on edge banding to the scalloped edges and use plywood, you will not be able to get your iron in the scalloped parts. You will also need to purchase wood moulding instead of primed MDF moulding.
Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to fasten the 1×2 leg pieces to the end panel. Keep side edges flush, and top edge. Taper the legs as shown above. Just a tiny taper will show up, remember, the side legs will also be tapered. Taper with your jigsaw.
BOTTOM PANEL TRIM
Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to fasten the bottom panel trim in place. Keep bottom edges flush.
Use glue and 2″ nails to fasten the side legs to the panel and the end legs. Fasten all the way down the end leg.
Attach the tops with 2″ nails and glue. Keep edges flush with the side legs.
Use the points given above to guide drawn the arched shapes. Cut out with a jigsaw. Once you have one side done, use it as a pattern for the remaining sides.
ATTACHING THE SCALLOPED SIDES
Drill pocket holes in the scalloped sides and attach to the siderails as shown above. Then use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to attach the cleats to the siderails.
ASSEMBLY & SLATS
Assemble your bed as shown above. Then lay your slats on top of the siderails and screw down with 1 1/4″ screws.
Measure and cut your siderail trim to fit the siderails. Glue and nail with 1 1/4″ to the siderails.