Midcentury Modern Console / Buffet Cabinet

emmerson console plan
Difficulty
Intermediate
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This easy to build console table or buffet cabinet adds style and storage to your space!  Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

emmerson console
west elm knockoff
west elm diy
west elm console knockoff
console diy

 

 

 

Yodel Lay He Ho!

 

 

 

Happy Knocktoberfest 2013!!!!

 

 

Have you been enjoying all the knock-off goodness this week shared by the dozens of amazing bloggers who are part of Knocktoberfest 2013?

 

 

I sure have!!!

 

 

 

 

This week long party is in full swing, and I'm pretty excited to jump in and share my Knocktoberfest 2013 project with you!

 

 

You know we've got a wee one on the way, right?  Well, I've been in search of the perfect changing table to build for our new baby, something that fits in a rustic yet refined room, can be used beyond diapering, and has tons of storage.  

 

 

Our family agreed that this West Elm Emmerson buffet or console would make the perfect changing table/storage solution for our new baby's room.  It's the right height, the right amount of open and concealed storage, the right mix of modern and rustic ... everything is right  ....

 

 

 

 

Everything except the price - $1100!!! ($999 plus $100 shipping surcharge).

 

 

 

 

And PS - they don't ship to Alaska.

 

 

 

 

 

What's a excited expectant mom to do???

 

 

 

 

 

Well, bust the power tools out and DIY it, of course.

 

 

 

Our whole family helped out on this console for our new baby.  The hubs helped me with construction (being 32 weeks along, any help is gladly accepted and appreciated), and my sister applied the beautiful stained finish.

 

 

 

 

 

All for under $100!!!

 

 

That's right - the main box of this console is simply one sheet of 3/4" plywood (I used PureBond Formaldehyde Free because it's non-toxic and American made and it's pretty)

 

 

 

 

That was ripped into easy to manage, transport and cut strips.  If you don't have a table saw, ask your home improvement store to rip the plywood for you.  It'll be much easier to work with in pre-ripped strips. 

 Just make sure they rip it so the strips are all exactly equal in width.

 

 

 

 

The doors are just cheapo white pine boards (pallet boards would have been lovely too!).

 

 

Here's a breakdown of my costs:

 

1 sheet 3/4" PureBond Plywood - $50

2 - 10' long 1x4 whitewood boards (used furring strips) - $8

3 - 8' long 1x2 whitewood boards (used furring strips) - $3

1 - sheet 1/4" plywood or backerboard - $20

 

1 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long - $5

1 - 1x3 @ 3 feet long - had scrap leftover already but these run about $1.50 for 8 feet

2 - sets of butt hinges - $4

2 knobs - $5

Had lefttover screws and nails and glue from other projects

 

 

 

 

Right at $95!!!!

 

 

 

 

Happy Knocktoberfest indeed!!!

 

 

 

 

I'll raise my mug and chicken dance to that!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And of course, we'll be building a topper too!!!  Stay tuned for that coming soon! 

 

 

 

 

I'm sharing below the step-by-step tutorial so you can also make this buffet cabinet or console or changing table - whatever you are going to use it as - but the party is far from over!!!

 

 

 

Next up - Marianne from Songbird blog is sharing her Knoctoberfest project!  Check it out!!!

 

 

 

And of course, the plans follow.  

 

Enjoy!

 

XO Ana

 

Dimensions
emmerson console plan
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

1 sheet 3/4" plywood ripped into strips 15 3/4" wide

3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

1 sheet 1/4" plywood or backerboard

1 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long

1 - 1x3 @ 3 feet long

2 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long

2 sets of butt hinges
magentic clasp or hasp (recommended)
2 knobs edge banding or 1x1 pine trim for finishing small shelf exposed plywood edges (I used pieces of 1x2 ripped in half)

Cut List

BOX 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15 3/4" x 55 1/2" (top and bottom)

1 - 3/4" plywood @ 15 3/4" x 36 1/4" (main shelf - cut to fit)

3 - 3/4" plywood @ 15 3/4" x 25 1/2" (sides/dividers)

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15 3/4" x 17" (small shelves - cut to fit)

1 - 1/4" plywood @ 55 1/2" x 27" FACE FRAME

2 - 1x2 @ 55 1/2"

3 - 1x2 @ 24" BASE

2 - 1x6 @ 15 3/4"

1 - 1x6 @ 34"

1 - 1x3 @ 34" DOORS

4 - 1x2 @ 17 1/2" (both ends beveled at 45 degrees off square, long point to long point)

5 - 1x4 @ 23 3/4"

TIP: Make sure you plan so all the plywood cuts fit on the same sheet of plywood. There's just enough - not alot of extra!

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

NOTE on getting doors to fit perfectly: So here's the deal - wood isn't always true to widths. Measure your 1x4 boards that you will use for the doors. If they measure 3 1/2' wide, then you can just proceed. If they don't, I recommend modifiying the main opening width to the width of your finished doors + 1/2" for clearance around doors + 1-1/2" for the face framing. You could also build your doors first (see step 6) and then measure the finished door, add 1/2", add another 1 1/2" for the face framing, and this will be the main opening width. Another option is if your 1x4 boards are a little on the narrow side, you could leave gaps between the 1x4s as you build the doors. If the 1x4 boards are too wide (not likely) you could build the door and then trim it down to fit. A final option is to just go ahead and build the box, but hold off on the middle 1x2 in the face frame (next step) until after you build the doors. Then attach the middle 1x2 in the face frame to give you just enough room for your doors. Just giving you options so your doors look beautiful when done with an even gap around them!

So once you get that figured out, it's time to build the box. We use 3/4" pocket holes (3 per end of each of the sides and divider) and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Another option is 2" wood screws or nails and glue (nails aren't as strong but since this project is face framed with a full back and isn't for sitting or climbing on, would most likely be enough).

The main shelf can be added at this step too.

Step 2

If you altered the width of your main opening, this will affect the width of your smaller shelves. Cut to fit and attach. We attached on the underside with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, but again, countersinking screws or nails would work too. Just don't forget the glue.

Step 3

We built our face frame first on the ground with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, then nailed the whole thing to the front of the project.

Step 4

And then we added the back, nailing and gluing it to the project.

Step 5

Step 6

Now for those doors - be careful to build them square, so the ends match up. I glued between each 1x4 and also glued and nailed the back supports on.

Step 7

I attached the doors with simple butt hinges, in the crack between the door and face frame. The goal is 1/8" gap around all sides of the door.

To keep the doors shut, add magnetic clasps or hasps.

Step 8

To achieve this stain, the entire cabinet was stained a medium stain. Then for the doors, selective boards were sanded down to remove some of the stain, lightening the boards. Other boards were given another layer of darker stain. And for the lighter areas, I taped off areas and sanded all the stain off to give the appearance of a past board to board joint.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

dzmom

Wed, 01/22/2014 - 06:39

This is my next project, but I want the exact finish. Can you give me some direction?

eksthompson

Tue, 02/17/2015 - 20:06

First, Ana, you are awesome! Thank you so much for creating this site!

So, this will be my first ever project. I was so excited and proud when I went to Home Depot to get the lumber. I spent lots of time picking out boards that were both straight AND pretty. So, getting ready to see what we still needed to cut tonight, and find that Home Depot cut almost all my boards at least a 1/4 in. off! What I'm wondering is, can I just modify the whole thing by taking 1/2 in. off all the boards? Do I have to do it for both dimensions if so? We only took the half inch off on the one side (so instead of the 1/4 in. plywood being the original 55 1/2 in. X 27in., it is 55 x 27.). I hope this makes sense.

Thank you!

Bander

Fri, 02/20/2015 - 11:51

If it is just the backing that is short, you can get away with 1/2 in because you can attach it without fully overlapping the boards at the end and it will still look fine from the front. (No one will know but you). If the rest of your boards are short, you will have to shorten the piece by the same amount in whatever dimension(s) you are short, or get new boards cut.

MN1987

Fri, 02/17/2017 - 06:36

Thanks for these great plans. I am in the middle of making this and have been struggling with the 1-1/2 inch addition to the door-area width that's called for to accommodate the face frame. If the face frame only overhangs on one side (since it's flush inside on the right side), why wouldn't the add-on be just 3/4-inch to accommodate the face frame for both doors? Thanks for your help!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!