Mimi's Narrow Hall Tree Hutch

narrow hall tree top hutch
Difficulty
Intermediate
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This hall tree is perfect for smaller spaces with it's narrow width.  Free plans to build a narrow hall tree. Simple step by step plans include detailed diagrams, cut list and shopping list, and photos.

I am so glad you all liked Mimi's Hall Tree. On Friday, I put together plans for the bench shown at the base of this hall tree. 

 
 
 
So of course we need to tackle the hutch plans today!

 
 
A special thanks to Mimi for sharing with us her beautiful DIY Hall Tree.  Make sure you stop over and thank Mimi and check out lots more amazing DIY projects.
 
Dimensions
narrow hall tree hutch diagrams

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x10 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 4 feet long
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 4 feet long
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - sheet 1/4" plywood or beadboard
  • 1 - stick 6 feet small crown moulding
  • Use either 2" screws or 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to build
Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
Cut List
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 53" (Sides)
  • 1 - 1x10 @ 32 1/2" (Shelf)
  • 1 - 1x10 @ 13" (Divider)
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 32 1/2" (Front Trim)
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 32 1/2" (Back Trim)
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 32 1/2" (Base)
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 38" (Top)
  • 1 - beadboard or 1/4" plywood @ 34" x 53" (Back)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Notch out hutch sides as desired. 

 You can also check out how I did my smiling mudroom sides for different ideas.

Step 2

Next, add the shelf.

Step 3

Notch out the tops of divider to fit a 1x2 on front and 1x3 on back. Use a jigsaw to make square cuts. Attach divider to shelf.

Step 4

Next, add the front and back trim, making sure the divider is centered on the 1x2 and 1x3.

Step 5

Step 6

And the back trim.

Also, not pictured, add the base trim flush to bottom back of hutch
with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws on back side, or 2" countersunk screws and wood glue.

Step 7

Next, add the top. Notice the 2" overhang on sides and front.

Step 8

Attach beadboard or plywood to back.

Step 9

Apply moulding as desired, mitering corners to fit.

Step 10

Finally, secure to bench and wall to prevent forward tipping.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

patrickhosey

Wed, 02/08/2012 - 22:10

I come home and my military uniform gets spread out everywhere. This would make the perfect uniform organizer!

shannonstaggs (not verified)

Thu, 02/16/2012 - 11:36

Hi Ana! I love your site and all of your projects! I recently completed the Farm House King Head/Foot board and absolutely LOVE IT! Working on one for my son's room now as well.

I am trying to find plans for something very similar to this hall tree, although I would like it to slide into a corner. Have you done anything similar or do you have any recommendations for altering the above plans to make a corner hall tree? I am thinking about using the Corner Unit for the twin storage bed and add the top piece to it - what are your thoughts on that? Thanks in advance!

jwbrett

Sat, 06/02/2012 - 08:20

Pictures can be deceiving. :) It looks so tall! But actually I'm taller (6'1")

BTP (By the Plan) the piece will only come out to be just a 1/4" over 6 foot high from bottom of base to top of hutch.

So I'm adding a foot to its height (6" to the bench, 6" to the hutch) to push it up a bit and make it feel less like a dwarf on a standard 8' ceiling.

Such a gorgeous design and beadboard all the way!

Melodie (not verified)

Wed, 12/12/2012 - 17:35

I made this and the accompanying bench this weekend. The instructions are clear and easy to follow. Assembly is a snap!

I agree that the piece is deceptively short. I added 13 1/4" to the height of the sides and created 2 shelves instead of one. Now it looks much more substantial on my entry wall.

My hubby loves it...no more mess in our entryway.

GogreenWoodworking

Sun, 05/17/2020 - 09:41

I was wondering if it was possible for this project to be shortened up width wise to 32" wide because in my home we have base board heat so those are in the way, so to make it fit our space it would have to be 32" wide, any suggestions?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!