Modern Floating Shelf

Difficulty
Intermediate
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Easy to make modern floating shelf out of 1x3s and 1/4" plywood. Customize to any length!

Happy Weekend!!!

Are you tackling any projects this weekend?  Here's a project that I made last weekend -

A floating shelf for over the TV!  I got tired of looking at the blank void begging to be decorated over the TV and decided to make a shelf over the TV.

I decided on a floating shelf because of the modern lines in the media cabinet (I promsie I'll get you those plans real soon) and the modern vibe of this living room.

That, and I wanted to make a secret storage spot (that's now not so secret as of seven words ago).  

I built this shelf out of a 24" x 48" 1/4" thick project panel (MDF is about $6) and 2 - 1x3 boards (about $1.50 each) - so with a couple of screws and nails, about $10 to make.  Here's how I built this floating shelf -

I cut all my 1x3 boards (see cut list in plan below)

Then I drilled 3/4" pocket holes on one end of all the shorter 1x3 boards.  I recommend pocket holes for this joint because it is the main structure for this shelf.  You can use any Kreg Jig for this.

Then I attached the shorter 1x3s to one of the longer 1x3s.  TIP: On the outsides, place pocket holes on outsides - it's stronger this way.

The reason I didn't do pocket holes on both sides is because you won't be able to fit a standard drill in there to add the screws.  So on the second side, just attach with 1-1/4" or longer finish nails and glue.

Now attach plywood to one side of the shelf, with glue and 1" long finish nails.  DO NOT attach the second side just yet.

Measure the thickness of the completed shelf (with one side nailed on and one side clamped on).  Cut with a table saw or circular saw (use a guide or Kreg Rip Cut here) two strips of 1/4" thick plywood to this width (for me this ended up being 2-3/4")

Nail the plywood strips around the sides and front.  Notice the 1/4" overhang on the bottom in this photo - that's for placing the top plywood on after we attach it to the wall.

Now it's time to finish this baby!

A little wood filler in those nail holes ..

Followed by quite a bit of sanding.  For modern furniture, that clean crisp sharp edge is a must, so roll up your sleeves and put in the elbow grease here.

Then I painted the shelf and the remaining plywood piece seperately using a semi-gloss paint.

After it dried, time to hang!

We found and marked the wall studs,

Drilled directly through the back inside of the shelf into the wall studs.  Make sure you attach the shelf so the pocket hole joint is screwed to the wall.

After a quick adjustment for level -

We added more screws to more studs in the wall.  Do two screws per stud, stacked vertically.

No need to attach the top plywood piece - just set it in place.

Perfect!  And if you ever wanted to hide something - that might just be the place!  Or if you want to know where I hid something, it's probably there.

I stole a few pictures from my gallery wall (small frame plans here and large frame video tutorial here) to finish this modern floating shelf over my tv off.

Hope you love it as much as we do!

Of course the plans follow (click READ MORE below if this is the home page).  If you build, please share - we can't wait to see how yours turns out too!

Have a awesome weekend!

XO Ana

 

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above - can go longer but should not be made wider unless wider width boards (like 1x4 or 1x6) are used.

Preparation

Shopping List

1 - 1/4" thick 24" x 48" project panel
2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
Long wood screws for hanging (at least 2-1/2")

Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

2 - 1x3 @ 48"
5 - 1x3 @ 6-1/2"
2 - 1/4" plywood @ 48" x 8" (cut to fit)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 48" x 3" (cut to fit)
2 - 1/4" plywood @ 8-1/4" x 3" (cut to fit)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build the basic frame for the shelf.

Step 2

Attach 1/4" plywood or MDF to the bottom of the shelf with 3/4" finish nails and glue (can use 1" nails too).

Step 3

Cut to fit the plywood strips for the sides. Attach front plywood strip with 3/4" nails and glue.

Step 4

Attach side plywood pieces.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

jrbamberg

Mon, 03/09/2015 - 08:56

This is a great project. I like the tv stand below the shelf too... do you have a plan for that as well?

Pam the Goatherd

Mon, 03/09/2015 - 13:39

Can't wait to see the plans for the media console. I've been wanting to build that. I've been following your blog for long enough now that I think I could probably do it without plans, but it would be nice to have plans all laid out so I don't have to wing it on my own.
I plan to use some of the metallic spray paint to do the support frame underneath and paint the body of the console white to make it really pop.

Ana White Admin

Tue, 03/10/2015 - 13:02

The weight of this shelf would depend on how it is attached to the wall. To make the shelf stronger, go with a wider width board (2x4s for the internal framing). Another option would be to hang the tv on the wall immediately above the shelf.

Analisa Shawver

Tue, 07/21/2015 - 15:45

I want to build these shelves in my bathroom but I want them to be about 14 inches deep. Would this be too deep?

milleall

Thu, 10/15/2015 - 08:15

A new tv stand will be one of my next projects.  I've been thinking about the http://ana-white.com/2013/10/plans/emersen-consle-or-buffet but I'm not yet convinced.  I've been hoping you would share the plans for the stand pictured in this post as well as some others.  I'm also curious about the finish you ended up using (seems like it was pictured with a lighter finish earlier on)

MarionH

Sat, 01/09/2016 - 05:01

could you use 1x2's instead of 1x3's? I prefer a shelf not as thick - I plan to do these in a kitchen and will put some dishes and decorative ceramics on them.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!