Modular Bookshelf Hutch - Build Your Own Desk System

diy desk hutch towers pottery barn
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Do you need extra storage in your desk area?  Adding bookshelf hutch towers to a desk system create tons more storage in an easy to access height.  It also looks beautiful and give a desk a high end, built-in look.

This is a DIY project plan that will help you build your own bookshelf hutches for your desk, so you can save money and get the exact size and finish you need.  The plans include video tutorial, configurator, recommended dimensions, diagrams, and more from Ana-White.com

MATCHING PLAN: Build the Modular Desk Bases with Free Plans Here

Why I Built These Desk Bookshelf Hutch Towers

A couple years ago, I built this desk (plans here)

 

diy desk plans

Free Modular Desk Plans Here

 

This desk has been GREAT and it is a forever solution, a perfect fit between the wood beams in my house.

But the problem was the desktop would get cluttered because there just wasn't enough storage at the desk area.  I needed somewhere for things like binders and books, baskets, paper and decor to go.

The problem with buying hutch towers was 1) Each tower would cost $500 2) I needed slightly different widths for the towers because the space between the windows and the beams were an inch different 3) I wanted something that matched my desk in style and paint finish.  

 

Watch - How I Designed and Built My Own Modular Desk Towers

I did film the building process when I built these towers - watch in the video below -

 

 

How Has The Desk and Hutches Held Up?

I built the desk bases a few years ago and they are doing awesome!  The hutches I built about a year ago (finally getting around to posting the plans) and they look brand new and have been tremendously helpful in cleaning up the desk system.  

 

Free Plans to Build Your Own Modular Desk Bookshelf Towers

Are you ready to build your own desk towers?

diy desk tower hutch bookshelf free plans

The free step by step plans using Ana's Design Tool are below.  You'll want to use my design app since you'll want a custom sized hutches to fit your needs specifically.

Thank you for using my plans, I am glad I can help.

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Modular Bookshelf Hutch - Build Your Own Desk System

Dimensions
dimensions for the desk hutch towers
This is the dimensions shown in the photo and diagrams - customize to suit your space and needs in the configurator in Step 1

Preparation

Shopping List

3/4" hardwood plywood, ripped into strips 11-1/4" wide (maple or birch plywood recommended for painted finish)

3/4" wide edge banding in matching wood veneer

1/4" plywood for the back in matching wood veneer

1x2 for face frame in matching wood veneer (pine or poplar most economical for painted finish)

1x4 for back bay support 

Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List

Cut list for the plywood is generated in the Design App

1/4" plywood for the back is cut to fit

1x2s for the face frame should be cut to fit

1x4 bay support is cut to match the cut length of the shelves

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Iron for Edge Banding

Instructions

Step 1

Custom Design Your Hutches

Use Ana's Design Tool to create the dimensions and cut list for your hutches and download the plans.

The parameters I entered are as follows:

  • Depth: 11.25"
  • Height: 56" 
  • Width: 18"
  • Number of Shelves: 4
  • Distance between shelves: 12.5" starting at the bottom, the distance left at the top shelf was more

Step 2

Cutting the Plywood Pieces

Once you have the plans downloaded from Ana's Design Tool, on the second page you will find the cut list.

Rip the 3/4" plywood into strips to match your width (my width is 11.25") by 8 feet long. It's best to use a tables or a track saw.  

Then cross cut the plywood strips into the pieces you'll need.

TIP: I always plan out my cuts on scratch paper before I do any cutting to minimize scrap pieces.

Step 3

Attaching the Top

I attached the top to the sides with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, with the pocket holes on the outside.  Yes, you can nail and glue instead if you don't have a pocket hole jig.

Step 4

Attaching the Back Bay Support

I attached the back bay support with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws on the back side.

Step 5

Adding the Shelves

For the shelves, I wanted them to have a finished front edge without a face frame.

So I ripped the shelf down to 11-1/8" width on my tables.

Then I applied edge banding to the front edge of the shelves.  The process is shown in the video.

I attached the shelves with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue.

Step 6

Adding the Back

I measure the back and cut 1/4" plywood and attached with glue and 3/4" brad nails to the back.

TIP: I cut the back 1/4" smaller so it doesn't quite reach the outside edge of the piece, so the edge of the back is hidden from sight.

Step 7

Face Frame

For the face frame, I first attached the two vertical pieces with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Then I measured and cut the top piece and attached it.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
I filled all nail holes that were exposed with wood filler and let dry.
Then I sanded with 120 grit sandpaper.
I removed all sanding residue with a vacuum with soft bristled brush and wiped clean with a damp, lint free cloth.
Finish Used
For a finish, I used a brush and cabinet roll, one coat of primer followed by three light coats of paint. I used Sherwin Williams ProClassic in Extra White. I did lightly sand after the primer with 220 grit sandpaper, and then again between paint coats.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!