Narrow Cottage End Tables

narrow end table with drawer free plans
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free do it yourself easy DIY plans to build cottage style end tables. Featuring a narrow design, perfect for fitting in tight spaces, with one large room drawer, this step by step project plan can be made by beginning woodworkers.

Reader submitted photo

I've been on this quest of late to find and build the perfect end tables for my small home. Requirements - some storage, narrow profile, just right height, and add a little color and charm to my otherwise natural colored living room. I love how this table turned out - a perfect drawer to stash remotes, the perfect height for resting a morning cup of coffee (and laptop) yet a narrow profile that works just right for smaller living spaces.

 

 
Dimensions
narrow end table free plans
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long (grab 2 if you don't have a pocket hole jig)
  • 1 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 4 feet long
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 4 feet long
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 2 feet long
  • 1/4" plywood scrap (for bottom of drawers)
  • 1 - knob or handle
  • 1 set 16" drawer slides, the white euro ones that fasten on the bottom corners
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 1/2 inch screws
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List
  • 1 - 1x10 @ 24" (Top)
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 24" (Top Trim)
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 19" (Sides)
  • 1 - 1x10 @ 9 1/4" (Width of 1x10)
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 9 1/4" (Width of 1x10)
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 24" (Legs)
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 9 1/4" (Width of legs, use if you do not have a pocket hole jig)
  • Drawer cut list given in plan
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

This narrow cottage style end table can be made with either the Kreg Jig or countersunk screws. The great thing about the Kreg Jig is your joints will be precise and square - super important when you are building with drawers. Your drawer won't fit right if your box is not perfectly square, so take great care to check for square after each step.

Build the back first. I did things in this order so you can get your drill in for pocket holes.

Note that the end apron needs to be cut to the width of your 1x10s, expected to be 9 1/4" but dimensional lumber can vary in width.

Step 2

Now build the front, using the 1x2s as shown here. If you are not using pocket holes, you will need to very carefully predrill holes and use 2 1/2" screws and glue, predrilling from the outsides of the legs.

Note these boards need to be cut to the width of your 1x10s.

Step 3

And now attach the sides to the front and back.

NOTE: You may wish to attach drawer slides to side aprons before attaching side aprons to end/front due to lack of clearance for your drill. Slide bottom will sit 2" from bottom of side aprons. See last step.

Step 4

If you have a Kreg Jig, build your top as shown in the diagram. Otherwise, add blocking with 2x2s and attach the top to the blocks with either finish nails from the top, or 2" screws from the underside. The 1x10 will fit in the center, not crossing the side aprons. Put the 1x10 on first, followed by the 1x3 side trim.

Step 5

Step 6

Fit the drawer box in the drawer, with the fronts of slides starting at the legs, and the bottom of the slides (the long flat part of the box members) attached 2" up from the side apron bottoms. Once you are happy with the drawer slides, cut a face for the drawer from the 1x10s, and fit so an even 1/8" gap rests on all sides, and attach with 1 1/4" screws or finish nails from insides.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Amanda H. (not verified)

Wed, 06/22/2011 - 13:30

I've been staring at side, coffee, and console table plans for MONTHS trying to decide which one I could attempt to modify to build that would be perfect. (I'm still pretty much a novice and terrible at math, haha!) In fact I was perusing plans today because I CAN NOT make it any longer with my makeshift one. I'm so happy right now. These plans are perfect. Oh happy day! Thanks Ana!

Lynn P (not verified)

Thu, 06/23/2011 - 03:10

I love these side tables! I am going to be moving soon and looking for a place to build a new home. You have inspired me to want to do the furniture myself! Thank you for all you do!

hook Fam

Thu, 06/23/2011 - 10:12

I love this! Thank you! My youngest son loves to play with the remotes and they very often get stashed in the couch cushions, a high shelf, anywhere that he won't find them. This is a great solution. It's on my To-Do List!

HollyHomemaker (not verified)

Thu, 07/07/2011 - 07:21

Thank you for sharing this! My hubby and I have a very small bedroom and have struggled finding bedside tables that are narrow enough that we are able to have one on each side.

I struggled with paying $50 or more for a cheap pre-made hunk of junk that would need altering and strengthening anyway...this is the perfect solution!

I really wish I had found this site MONTHS ago!

Jessica Elder (not verified)

Mon, 12/12/2011 - 21:32

I have been looking all over for end tables small enough to fit in the tight spaces of my living room and found that the really inexpensive ones look extremely cheap and would be goners in no time and the really nice ones start at around $150.00! I got the notion to see if this is something I could do on my own and thanks to this project I think it is possible! I've been researching a lot about required tools and things like how a piece of lumber isn't actually the size it's classified as and am just dumbfounded I didn't know this. hahaha. Now that I've got the gist of it and understand the things that made me hesitate I'm going for it. I really hope it turns out as adorable as the picture! Thanks for your details and great design!

bigtimer24

Mon, 04/23/2012 - 18:38

My wife wanted a side table for her books and a place to sit her tea or coffee while reading. I looked around and couldn't find one that was nice and affordable. I saw this plan and shared it with my wife as I said to her that "I will build this for you." Several days later she was stunned as I showed off my completed project. Thanks for the plan!!! I'll post a picture shortly. Cost me around $30.00 bucks as I opted for a 7 dollar decorative drawer pull.

(: Tennessee Teen :) (not verified)

Sun, 08/12/2012 - 13:52

I love this! I'm re-doing my room and I'm going to make this with my dad for a nightstand and painting it pink!

paulaandmatt2010

Sat, 11/02/2013 - 01:35

I just purchased 2 tables from a higher end department store that looked EXACTLY like this (minus color) and paid way more than what I would have if built. Well, now I know...check here first! :)

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!