Patrick's Router Table Plans

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 07/11/2019 - 12:50
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Did you get a chance to watch Patrick and Gabriel Gallant's amazing Farmhouse Table video?


Did you notice Patrick's drool worthy shop furniture?


Well, after so many of you requested plans, Patrick offered to share the router table plans with you today!!!  

Yes, you can build this beautiful and super functional router table just like Patrick's!


Patrick has thought of everything!  Even the on/off switch and cords!



And for those super expensive router bits?



This router table has it all!



And more storage down below.



The cabinet is designed to work with a standard router table (suggest that you buy first and the router too).


Drawers are all on metal glides, and the whole cabinet is on casters too!



Please extend a HUGE thank you to Patrick for designing and sharing these router table plans with us!  We've worked together to develop a plan, and you'll see a few small mods just to make things a little simpler, but this one is really all Patrick.


And here's a few building notes directly from Patrick:

The top 2 drawers are 1x6's. I used 16" drawer slides and made 16" drawers but I could have gotten away with 18. 


Top left drawer. Use 16" full extension drawer slides. Cut 2 16" pieces out of your 1x6. Cut two pieces 4 7/8". Make a box out of these 4 pieces. Cut a 14 1/2" piece for the middle and drill a series of 1/4" and 1/2" holes in it. This will house your router bits. Mark a center line on the top piece and turn it over to make a center line on the bottom. This line is where you will center your top and bottom drawer slide. On the drawer opening in the face frame, mark a center line on top and bottom. This way you can center your drawer seeing as the drawer slides go on top and bottom instead of the sides. Cut the drawer front out of the 1x6 leaving enough room for 1/8" gap on all four sides. My drawer fronts were 7 1/8" long.


Top right drawer. The drawer front is also 7 1/8" long. All this is is a door disguised as a drawer. on the bottom of the drawer front, mark a center line. Mark a centerline on the face frame opening as well. Then attach a small door hinge on the bottom and a door magnet on the back.


Something to consider. Attach the table top before doing all of this. The space is too small to be able to get your drill in there to attach it after it's all done.


In order to get the size that I wanted, I had to make the bottom drawer fronts out of plywood. This means that the convenience of making drawer fronts out of standard size boards wasn't there. I cut the drawer fronts to fit and then attached 1/4 x 3/4 molding (nosing) whatever you call it on all four sides which are mitered at the ends. This can be difficult without a nail gun. 


The casters are 3'' lockable wheels. You can use the ones on the bolts like mine or you can use the ones that screw on.


Usually I use all 3/4 material for dividing the cabinets but this was pretty hard to do up at the top. What I ended up having to do was to use 1/4" plywood to divide the router from the drawers. Attach a square dowel to the cabinet and then attach the thin plywood to the square dowel.


The rest is just standard cabinet making.


Maybe I can draw some pics if this is too confusing. I can make components in sketchup but I can't put them all together for some reason.


Again, huge thank you to Patrick, and the plans follow!  Best luck building!


Router Table Plans

router table plans
Dimensions shown above. Build to suit your router table top.


Shopping List
  • 1 Sheet 3/4" plywood ripped into two 19" x 8 foot long strips (remaining scrap can be ripped into 5 1/2" wide strip and used to replace some of the 1x6 boards - if you do this, may I suggest altering to 18" widths so you can get two 5 1/2" strips out of scrap plywood? You'll still need to buy a 1x6) OR 3 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long (plan assumes your 1x6 are 5 1/2" wide)
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x8 @ 6 feet long (plan assumes your 1x8s are 7 1/4" wide)
  • Recommended joinery is 1 1/4" PH screws and 1 1/4" finish nails
Cut List


  • 3 - 3/4" plywood 19" x 26 1/2"
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood 19" x 8 1/4"
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood 19" x 28 1/2"
  • 5 - 1x3 @ 19" (or width of your plywood)


  • 2 - 1x2 @ 28 1/2"
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 25"
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 7 1/2"


  • 2 - 1x6 @ 16"
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 5"
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 14 1/2"
  • 2 - 1x8 @ 5 1/2" (drawer faces for both top drawers)


  • 4 - 1x6 @ 22 1/2"
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 16"
  • 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 24" x 16"
  • 2 - 1x8 @ 24 3/4"
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

So the tricky part here is the little drawers. You'll need to do some prepwork to get the drawers in before building - because once built, there's no way you are going to get a drill in the tiny space to attach drawer slides. So do a test layout of the top center piece as shown here. You'll want to attach the 1x3 ...

Step 2

Build your router bit box as shown above. The 14 1/2" piece is for drilling out holes for your router bit collection ....


Step 3

Remembering that the project gets a face frame, install the drawer slides cabinet member on the project BEFORE construction. Test the drawer for fit before you glue anything.

Step 4

Once you are happy with the drawer fit, you can add the sides and bottom.

Step 5

Step 6

Now build the face frame and attach to front of cabinet.

Step 7

And then finish off small drawers with faces.

Step 8

Build two large drawers. Check your overall widths - drawers should be made overall 1" less than the opening to allow for standard 1/2" clearance drawer slides. Check for square.

Step 9

Install drawers 3/4" inset in cabinet to allow for drawer face.

Step 10

Attach drawer face to drawers with even 1/8" gap on all sides.

Step 11

And then add the caster wheels.

Step 12

Cut out holes for router and attach router table top.

Step 13

And I love how Patrick did this!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Wed, 07/11/2012 - 14:38

This project looks great.

As I do not yet have a router table top, I went looking around on Amazon and it looks to me like he's using the "Rockler High Pressure Laminate Router Table Package #1, with Plate for Group A Routers".

I'm not plugging it as I have no personal experience with it, but it seems well reviewed. If you are like me, and are both in the market for one and considering building this cart, I thought the info might be useful.

Thoughts, comments, corrections, admonishments all welcome,

ps- the cool stop switch is called a "Safety Power Tool Switch" by the same company.

Jon (not verified)

Wed, 07/11/2012 - 18:39

Great design and video. Can you ask Patrick what he was using for his loose mortise and tenon jig? It looked like a beadlock system, but I couldn't tell for sure.


FlyLow (not verified)

Wed, 07/11/2012 - 18:56

From Patrick's previous comments it's Beadlock jig.

While I like the joinery and how easy it looks, I don't like The tenon stock you have to buy. They do offer a router bit for it.


Wed, 07/11/2012 - 19:14

It is the beadlock. The tenon stock is made to fit the mortises without cleaning it, but I find it too tight so I end up cleaning the mortises anyway. It's still a pretty awesome little jig. I've never seen anyone combine pocket hole joinery with loose tenon but I figured I'd give it a shot and it worked. Flylow, I gotta see this table top you made up. It sounds pretty awesome.

Something to consider about this router table is the opening for the router. It's a tight fit but it works for me because I have a router lift. You might have a hard time if you have to remove your router every time to change bits.

Grizzly has a table top for pretty cheap right now and it looks pretty good. Mine is from Rockler and I really like it.

Also always unplug the system from the wall before changing bits. It's unlikely that the router will turn on while your fingers are in there true, but good safety habits are a real good thing. Use push sticks. I can't tell you how many times my sticks got nicked up saving me from a trip to the emergency room.

little stuf

Thu, 07/12/2012 - 09:16

Wow! Awesome plans! I love how you thought of a place for everything. The extra storage is nice, as well. This is a must have! I'm also loving the other tool cabinet in the background! Is your work area always that neat? :)

In reply to by little stuf


Thu, 07/12/2012 - 10:32

It actually does stay neat. Because there is a place for everything and the storage is close by and convenient, it takes no time to put your tools back. Also I know exactly where to look to find tools and jigs. They used to be in random spots all over the garage.

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