Rolling Rustic Wood Dresser

diy dresser rustic farmhouse ana white
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Free plans to build a solid wood, rolling dresser from ana-white.com

This dresser is beautiful and blends with just about any style and decor.  The plans include step by step diagrams, shopping list, cut list and more.  

diy dresser rustic farmhouse ana white
diy dresser rustic farmhouse ana white

Heck, yeah, that's DIY!

 

 

And you can make it too!

 

 

This beautiful dresser was built by Whitney from Shanty2Chic from plans we worked on together.  It's also made from solid wood and PureBond Formaldehyde free plywood for a fraction of retail cost - not too shanty, eh?  Here's from Whitney:

 

 

 

 

Oh how I LOVE this dresser. If my son's room wasn't empty, I would be tempted to keep it downstairs in my own room! I was intimidated by the thought of building 6 drawers at first, but I mastered my own 'shanty' way of attaching the metal drawer slides and they work perfectly! I have given a detailed tutorial on how I attached them in my post. This might be my favorite build yet. Thanks for designing this with me Ana, and for once again helping me save hundreds of dollars!!

 

 

 

Whitney, this might be one of my favorite dressers every too!  I love the hardware you choose to accent the dresser!  Beautiful and inspiring, thank you for working with me on it!

 

Of course, if you want lots more photos and construction details, please visit Whitney over at Shanty2Chic.

 

And of course we got you covered with the step by step DIY plans!  Enjoy!

 

 

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Rolling Rustic Wood Dresser

Dimensions
diy rolling dresser industrial style
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - sheet 3/4” plywood ripped into strips 15 3/4” wide referred to as 1x16 boards throughout this plan
  • 3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 6 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long (MUST BE VERY STRAIGHT)
  • 6 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1/4” plywood for drawer bottoms/back
  • 6 - 16” euro style white drawer slides (bottom corner mount)
  • 1 1/4” and 2 1/2” Pocket Hole screws
  • 1 1/4” brad nails
  • Knobs or handles
  • 6” caster wheels and screws to attach

NOTE: This plan assumes your 1x10 boards are 9 1/4" wide to fit a 9 1/2" wide drawer opening. Measure the width of your 1x10s and adjust if necessary, allowing for an 1/8" gap around all sides of drawer faces.

Cut List
  • 2 - 1x16 @ 32 1/4”
  • 6 - 1x2 @ 15 3/4”
  • 1 - 1x16 @ 62 1/2”
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 62 1/2”
  • 6 - 2x2 @ 30”
  • 4 - 2x2 15 3/4”
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 29”
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 41” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, longest point measurement)

DRAWERS

  • 12 - 1x8 @ 26 1/2”
  • 12 - 1x8 @ 16”
  • 6 - 1/4” plywood 28” x 16” (tip: have 1/4” plywood ripped into 16” widths at hardware store)
  • 6 - 1x10 @ 28 3/4”

Back of dreser is optional

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

These spacers added will be where you attach the drawer slides. Attach level with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue. NOTE: You may wish to drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching top and also 3/4" pocket holes facing forward for attaching front face frames in later steps.

Step 2

Then attach top. Either use the predrilled pocket holes from step 1 and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws or use finish nails and glue. NOTE: You may wish to drill 3/4" pocket holes facing forward and backward for attaching face frames in step 3.

Step 3

Build your face frames first, check for square, and then line up with the cabinet box and attach. You can attach with 2" brad nails AND GLUE or through pocket holes drilled in steps 1 and 2 with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 4

These guys are for your drawer slides. Attach with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 5

Attach the 1x2 pieces carefully in place with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Place pocket holes on underside.

Step 6

These guys are to help take the weight off the center of the dresser and distribute it, and also to keep things square. You may feel you don't need them - I'm an overbuilding kinda gal :) Another option if you find your dresser needs additional center support (hey, you never know, you may be storing gold in there!) you can add and additional 5th wheel to the center.

Step 7

Drawer time! It's super important that your drawers are square and measure 1" less than the overall interior width of the drawer opening. NOTE that some drawer slides may vary in clearance requirements, so always read through the drawer slide instructions before building drawer boxes.

Drawer video - please watch this video for drawer installation:

Step 8

Install drawers with the metal drawer slides.

Step 9

Now the fun part! Attach faces, with even 1/8" gap around all sides. I do this by setting in place with 1/8" shims on bottom and sides and attaching with glue and a couple of 1 1/4" finish nails. Then I open the door and attach from inside with a few 1 1/4" screws to secure. NOTE: Depending on your hardware, you may wish to attach hardware first to drawer face.

Step 10

Final step is to add the wheels!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Jimbo09

Tue, 09/29/2015 - 08:36

I went to lowes today to pick up enough product for building 2 of these dressers, one for me and one for my son, some extras, like the Kreg rip cut guide, and some stuff for a 2X6 bathroom door and a few other things for other projects. My total for everything was 483.68. now, I will breakdown cost for one dresser.

Shopping List: 

1 - sheet 3/4” plywood ripped into strips 15 3/4” wide referred to as 1x16 boards throughout this plan
23.58

3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

1.12 each, total-3.36
6 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long (MUST BE VERY STRAIGHT!!!!)

1.67 each. total 10.02
6 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long

8.62 each, total 51.72
2- 1x10 @ 8 feet long

12.37 each, total 24.74
1 - 1/4” plywood for drawer bottoms/back

21.92
6 - 16” euro style white drawer slides (bottom corner mount)

5.27 each, total 31.62
1 1/4” and 2 1/2” PH screws
1 1/4” finish nails
Knobs or handles on hand.

I ommitted the wheels, knobs vary, mine were 1.68 each, total 10.08.

 

total cost of just materials, without knobs and wheels:

166.96 + tax so, 176.96 here in PA.

 

I thought this breakdown may help people get an idea in advance for this project. I budgeted $500 just for the dressers because I was unsure, no I am getting some other projects in the works as well.

Greg (not verified)

Thu, 01/10/2013 - 05:59

Where do you find 2x2 wood? I was building another dresser and could only find 2x2 in oak in a 36" piece at the orange box store.

I ended up having to rip down 2x6s but that was in pine. I would love to find somewhere that sells 2x2 in hardwoods for good furniture like this.

Dan S (not verified)

Thu, 01/17/2013 - 23:46

Home depot and Lowes sells them in their lumber dept. They are usually by the 1x2 and 1x3 if you can find those. Hope that helps

Tanja

Sun, 09/15/2013 - 06:42

Luv this design! Wondering... with a little tweeking.. these would make great cabinets in my new 'old world, modern' kitchen! I'm traditional old world my hubby is more modern... LOL. Dresser looks great!

keltik

Fri, 07/11/2014 - 08:45

I really like this, but would prefer legs instead of wheels. Looking at the design, I could make the 2x2's longer than 30", but the plywood is attached to them. I could maybe cut 4 2x2s at 3" long and then attach underneath?
Any suggestions? I'm new to this. :)

jgbreeden

Sat, 07/12/2014 - 10:20

Definitely extend the 2x2s. If you cut short stubs, they would have no lateral support. It should not change how the plywood attaches, you'll just need to cut the lower rails 3" shorter.

Klevine34

Tue, 10/18/2016 - 21:40

Is it possible to make this a 6 drawer vertical dresser with some measurement tweaking? I love it, just have a narrow space.

Klevine34

Sun, 10/23/2016 - 20:32

I love this dresser but I'm needing to build a vertical 6 drawer dresser for the space I have. If I would alter this plan a bit, would I still need the supports in the back?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!