Rustic Modern Farmhouse Dresser Console

ana white rustic modern dresser
| Print this plan

Stunning dresser diy using whitewood boards, features four big drawers and a modern design.  Free plans to build your own rustic modern farmhouse dresser by

RELATED: Free plans for matching bed and matching nightstands

Rustic modern farmhouse dresser

Rustic modern meets farmhouse in this gorgeous dresser featuring four drawers.  This dresser is table height, so works well as a console or with a tv - use it in entryways, living rooms and more.  

Matching Bedroom Suite Plans

In the bedroom, pair this dresser with our Rustic Modern Farmhouse Bed and Rustic Modern Farmhouse Nightstands, all plans are free.

rustic modern bed diy plans ana white

Related Build Video

This build is very similar to the nightstands build.  Please take a moment to watch the nightstand build video here to view the process.

Pin For Later!

Rustic Modern Farmhouse Dresser Console

dimensions for rustic modern farmhouse dresser
Table height, narrower profile, dimensions shown in diagram


Shopping List
  • 5 - 1X8 @ 8 feet long
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 5 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 12 feet long
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood panel, 48" x 48"
  • 4 - 16" white euro style drawer slides
  • 100 - 1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
  • 10 - 2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1-1/4" and 5/8" Brad Nails
  • medium and fine grit sandpaper
  • Stain and clear poly
Cut List

1x8s are expected with of 7-1/4".  If width varies, this will complicate plans and adjustments will need to be made.


  • 9 - 1x8 @ 16"
  • 3 - 1x4 @ 16"
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 65-1/4" - measure and cut to fit


  • 4 - 1x8 @ 24-1/2" - side panels
  • 5 - 2x4 @ 28-1/2" - legs
  • 3 - 1x2 @ 63-3/4" - frame rails
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 63-3/4" - middle frame rail
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 24-1/2" - front middle leg
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 9-1/2" - back blocking
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 9-1/2" - front blocking


  • 8 - 1x6 @ 16" - drawer sides
  • 8 - 1x6 @ about 28-3/8" - drawer front and back
  • 4 - 1/4" plywood @ 16" x about 29-7/8" - drawer bottoms
  • 16 - 1x8 @ 11-1/4" - drawer faces
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1


Cut the top boards.  It is best to set up a stop block and use a miter saw to cut, so the pieces are all exactly the same length.

Then drill 3/4" pocket holes on all but one of the top pieces.

Attach together, clamping each joint, with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Top Trim

Measure and cut 1x2 to fit the front and back edges.  Attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 3

Top Filler Pieces

Cut 1x4 boards to match the tabletop cuts and attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Step 4

Side Panels

Cut the 1x8 side panels.

Join together along center with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Then drill 3/4" pocket holes along the sides and top for attaching to legs and top in next steps.

Build two identical.

Step 5


Set pocket hole jig up for 1-1/2" pocket holes.

Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on tops of the legs.  Keep pocket hole held in 1" on the inside leg, so it is not covered up by the 1x8 side panel.

Now attach the 1x8 side panels to the legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

The two leg sets are built in mirror, with the pocket holes in the legs facing backward, and the pocket holes in the center panel hidden to the inside.

Step 6

Attaching Legs to Top

Attach the legs sets to the top using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

If there is any difference in width, attach so the front is perfectly aligned and any difference is left at the back where it isn't noticeable.

Step 7

Inner Framing Rails

Adjust the project for square by taking opposite diagonals - before this step, the legs have to be square (not a parallelogram or trapazoid) to the top.

Attach the inner framing pieces to the 2x4 legs with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.  

Maintain distances in between and double check for square.

Step 8

Center legs

The center legs will be used for attaching the drawer slides, so it is very important they are installed square to the project.  Measure carefully and attach.

The front middle leg is a 1x4.

The back leg is a 2x4.

Step 9

Back Blocking for Drawers

Cut blocking from 1x2s and attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue to the inside of the back of the dresser.

Step 10

Front Drawer Blocking

Attach 1x4 blocking to fill in the front "leg" with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Step 11

Drawer Boxes

Drawer sides: 16" long

Drawer front and back: Measure the opening width (distance between the red boards in the diagram) and subtract 2-1/2" - should be about 28-3/8".  Measure each opening individually.  Cut the drawer front and backs.

Drawer Bottom: 16" x opening MINUS 1"

Cut the pieces and build the drawer boxes.  You can use pocket holes or 1-1/4" brad nails.  Attach bottom with 5/8" brad nails and glue.

Install the drawer slides, so the front of the drawer slide is flush to the front of the "red" blocking boards in the diagram.  I installed my slides with about 1/2" gap under the slide, to make sure the drawer doesn't rub on the framing pieces.

Please watch the nightstand video here as the process is almost identical.

Step 12

Drawer Faces

Cut the drawer faces and join together with pocket holes.

Then carefully attach to the drawer boxes with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Further secure from inside with 1-1/4" screws (I used pocket hole screws).

This step is not easy to get perfect.  Another person holding the drawer faces will help.

OPTION: Use 1x12s for the drawer faces instead of the 1x8s - it will be a different look but will save quite a few steps.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Sanded everything very well with medium grit sandpaper using a random orbital sander.
Light sanding with fine sandpaper.
Removed all sanding residue by vacuuming and wiping clean before staining.
Finish Used
Applied with rag Sunbleached by Varathane and wiped exesss off.
Added a clear coat of Polyurethane to protect.
Finished with a light, fine grit sanding.