Free shed chicken coop plans!
• 6 – Sheets T1-11 side or other sheathing
• 1 – Sheet 3/4" plywood suitable for flooring
• 40 – 2x4 x8 or stud length (only 5 must be full 8 feet length)
• 17 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
• 8 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
• 3 – Sheets 1/2" plywood suitable for roof
• 1 – 1x12 @ 10 feet long
• Hinges for doors and shutters and nesting box
• 16d nails for framing with 2x4s OR 3” wood screws (for framing 2x4 walls)
• 2” galvanized or ring shank nails for attaching T1-11 and roofing plywood and trim boards
• 1 1/2” Pocket hole screws for attaching roof rafters
• 1 1/4" Pocket hole screws for building doors and nesting box
• Roofing to cover approximately 50 square feet
Due to the size and complexity of this plan, it is recommended to cut as you go. Below is cut list for framing, but trim will need to be cut to fit.
5 - 2x4 @ 45"
2 - 2x4 @ 96"
1 - 3/4" plywood for flooring 96x48"
1 - 2x4 @ 96" (top plate)
6 - 2x4 @ 72 3/4" (studs)
2 - 2x4 @ 69 1/4" (jack studs for doorway)
4 - 2x4 @ 33" (door header and bottom plates)
SIDE WALLS - BUILD 2
8 - 2x4 @ 72 3/4" (studs)
6 - 2x4 @ 21 1/2" (window header and sill)
4 - 2x4 @ 41" (top and bottom plates)
2 - 2x4 @ 96" (top and bottom plates)
5 - 2x4 @ 84 1/2" - top end cut at 15 degrees off square (studs)
5 - 2x4 @ 49 7/8" - both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends parallel, with bottom point cut off at a 90 degree angle - see diagram (rafters)
Cut roof plywood to length.
Use full sheets of siding, only trimming down the length to fit.
Nesting box, door and shutter cuts are in plan.
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
You will need to first determine the type of foundation you will put the coop on. Probably the easiest and simplest foundation is pier blocks with treated 4x4s on top. Then your flooring system can set on that. Because foundation requirements vary greatly by where you live, ask locally for the best way to create a foundation for the coop.
To build the floor, simply frame up with 2x4s as shown above, 24” on center, using the 3” wood screws or 16d nails. Check the floor for square, and sheath with 3/4” plywood, glued on with subfloor glue and ring shank nails. At this point, you could also add insulation underneath if you live in a cold climate – for example blueboard.
I recommend on the final finish linoleum to protect the plywood from pet damage.
Attach the floor to your foundation and adjust for level.
The back wall is a little different, but no biggie. Simple cut the top ends at 15 degrees off square, with the longest point measurement 84 ½”. Then fasten top plate to wall. Do not allow the top plate to extend past the back wall studs, because t1-11 will sheath all the way up, and the back surface needs to be flush.
With all the walls built, attach walls to the floor, attaching to the floor joists in the floor. Attach walls to each other as well.
Now it’s time to build the roof!
The rafters are simply 2x4s cut with both ends parallel at 15 degrees off square. Once the rafter is cut, on the bottom edge, mark 2 5/8” down, and use a carpenter’s square to draw a line perpendicular to the bottom cut at 2 5/8” down. Cut off the bottom of the rafter. This will give you something flush to attach to your front wall.
The easiest way to attach rafters is with a Kreg Jig and 1 ½” pocket holes and 2 ½” pocket hole screws. But you can also toenail to the top plates, or use brackets.
There’s no way around this to do it correctly than to use 3 sheets of 1/2” plywood. Cut the center piece to fit – it should just be a single lengthwise cut as the studs are spaced 24” on center. Nail down with galvanized nails or screws. Then add the remaining two pieces on the sides. Add roofing to top of plywood.
The door is framed in 1x4s with the Kreg Jig. Then you can back it with either scrap plywood leftover or as shown, 1x6 boards. The door should be built to fit your opening. I like to leave 1/8” gaps all the way around. You can add door stop moulding in 1x2s to the inside of the doorway to act as both a stop and a weather seal – see next diagram.
For lots more tips and building photos, please stop over and check out Whitney's post.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.