Shepard Kitchen Island

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Free kitchen island plans from Ana-White.com

Hi everyone! Happy Monday! 

Pretty excited today to share with you brand new plans!

When my friend Hillary from The Friendly Home built this media console a while back ...

She built something else to at the same time!

 

A new kitchen island with a wine grid!!!!  

Hillary generously offered to share the plans with you so you can build this island too!  If you want to check out more photos, building notes, and finishing details, please read Hillary's post here.

And of course, the plans follow!

Enjoy!

XO Ana

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

2 sheets of 3/4" plywood ripped into strips 8 feet long x 22 1/2" wide
1 sheet 1/4" plwyood (back and drawer bottoms)
7 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
12 feet of 1x3s or 2x3s (for base)
10 feet of 1x3s (supports and drawer furring)
18" of 4x4s
20 feet of 1x6s
3 sets of 21" Euro Style bottom corner mount drawer slides (the white cheapo ones)
2 sets of inset hinges
7 - 8 foot sticks of wood moulding 1" x 1/2"
1 1/4" pocket hole screws
1" and 1 1/4" finish nails
2 corbells - less than 10 1/2" tall
countertop made to fit

Cut List

Main Carcass
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 1/2" x 56 1/2" (bottom)
4 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 1/2" x 35 3/4" (sides and dividers)
2 - 1x3 @ 15" (back supports)
1 - 1x3 @ 23 1/2" (center back support)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 36 1/2" x 56 1/2" (back)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ x 32 1/2" (center X pieces)

Side Face Frames (recommend cutting to fit)
4 - 1x2 @ 36 1/2"
4 - 1x2 @ 19 3/4"
2 - 1x4 @ 19 3/4"

Back Face Frame (recommend cutting to fit)
2 - 1x2 @ 36 1/2"
2 - 1x2 @ 55"
1 - 1x4 @ 55"

Front Face Frame (recommed cutting to fit)
2 - 1x2 @ 36 1/2"
2 - 1x2 @ 55"
2 - 1x2 @ 33 1/2"
2 - 1x4 @ 15"
1 - 1x4 @ 22"

Bottom Base
4 - 4x4 @ 4"
2 - 2x3s or 1x3s @ 17 1/4"
2 - 2x3s or 1x3s @ 51"

Drawers (cut drawers to fit drawer slides and opening - cut list is for openings of 15" and 22" with 1/2 clearance drawer slides)
2 - 1x3 @ 21 3/4" (center drawer furring)
6 - 1x6 @ 21" (drawer sides)
4 - 1x6 @ 12 1/2" (smaller drawer fronts/backs)
2 - 1x6 @ 19 1/2" (larger drawer fronts/backs)

Cut Drawer faces to fit - shown with edge trimming 1/2" thick around all sides

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Attach sides and dividers to the base.

Step 2

These guys add a little support to the back and give you something to attach the back plywood to.

Step 3

Attach back plywood to back with finish nails and glue - make sure everything is square.

Step 4

Measure and cut your side face frames to fit. Build first with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Then nail on to sides.

NOTE: If you are opting to not place the edge banding around door/drawer faces (see step 13) - and would like to use just 1x8 boards for the drawer faces, leave a 7 1/2" gap between the top 1x2 and 1x4 (for 7 1/4" wide 1x8s) by moving the 1x4 board upward on the face frame slightly. Do the same for the back and front face frames.

Step 5

Step 6

Hillary felt the most difficult part of the entire project was this X - she recommeds for less experienced builders to just place shelving inside the center.

If you do go ahead with the X - I suggest notching out the two shelving piecs as shown above and sliding together.

Step 7

Then before the face framing on the front is added, slide the X in place.

Step 8

Then build your front face frame to fit and atach to front. You can also apply trim to the front edges of the X.

It is important for your upper drawers that the side openings are flush to the face frames. The center opening will not be flush - we'll take care of that in later steps.

Step 9

Build your base seperately, then attach to bottom of the island.

Step 10

For added detail, cut and nail the 1" x 1/2" trim around bottom and center of 1x4s.

Step 11

For the middle drawer, since the opening is not flush on the inside, you'll need to fur it out to give you something to mount the drawer slides too. Use 1 1/4" nails to attach.

Step 12

Drawers should be built to fit openings and drawer slides. Hide 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to the outsides - the drawer face will cover them up. The bottoms of these drawers are simply 1/4" plywood cut to fit - this works if you use bottom or bottom corner mount drawer slides.

Install drawers inside cabient with drawer slides.

Step 13

Drawers and doors are figured with an 1/8" gap around all sides. Measure and cut to fit the openings. These drawers are shown with wood trim around plywood centers.

Attach faces with 1/8" gaps around all sides.

Step 14

Attach store bought corbels to back side of island. For additional support, 2 additional corbels can be added on the back side of the dividers. First, you'll need to fill in the spacing between the face frame 1x2 and 1x4 with a 1x2.

Step 15

Hillary used a prefab countertop - but thought a butcher block countertop would be lovely too.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!