Stair Baluster Outdoor Console Table

Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build an outdoor console table using stair balusters for legs!

After 600 of you liked Sonya's Stair Baluster Outdoor Console Table on our Facebook Page, I had to ask (okay, so I begged) Sonya to let me hack some plans for you!

And she said yes!!!

So please extend a special thank you today to Sonya for letting us share plans with you today for this Stair Baluster Console Table.

Love it? Pin it to your to-do list!

Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

4 - Stair Balusters (as shown 34" tall x 1 1/4" x 1 1/4")
2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
5 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
1 1/4" pocket hole screws
exterior wood glue

Cut List

19 - 1x4 @ 9" long
2 - 1x4 @ 39 1/2" long
2 - 1x3 @ 35 1/2" long
4 - Stair Balusters (as shown 34" tall x 1 1/4" x 1 1/4")
2 - 1x4 @ 11 1/2" (top aprons)
2 - 1x4 @ 33" (top aprons)
2 - 1x3 @ 11 1/2" (bottom aprons)
2 - 1x3 @ 33" (bottom aprons)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build the top as shown here. Clamp each joint as you attach to get the smoothest top.

Step 2

Build bottom shelf, only this time, notch out for legs.

Step 3

Start by attaching end aprons to the two legs each. Then attach front/back aprons to the two leg sets.

Don't forget to drill pocket holes in aprons facing upward for attaching tabletops in later steps.

Step 4

Attach top and shelves to frame.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

noregrets11

Wed, 09/04/2013 - 15:57

Has anyone else built this table yet? Every single screw I've screwed in has popped out the other side of my pocket holes. Every. Single. Screw. I've tried changing sizes, brands of the screws, angles of the drill- nothing works. At first I just said "oh well" and figured the glue would hold those early joints together. Now, at this point, the entire table will be held together by glue. (Which makes for a very LONG timetable for completion.) This is Project #4 for me, so I'm not a pro, but I definitely haven't had these problems with my other builds, and I'm not doing anything different. Anyone else?

Lady Goats

Wed, 09/04/2013 - 16:44

Have the settings changed on your jig? Did you check the collar of the drill bit? I know you're saying you haven't changed anything, but the collar moves and should be checked before each use, and changing the settings is an easy thing to do (and overlook!). When this happens to me (and I have way more than four builds, so it doesn't matter if you've been doin' this a while or not - it'll probably happen again :-/) I reset everything. I take the collar off. I change all of the jig settings. Then I look at the instruction manual, set everything back as it tells me to, and try again. And if that fails, I throw stuff. And cry. Or at least *want* to cry. Ok, I might actually cry.

But that's only happened once. And then I bought a new board and everything worked perfectly. So sometimes it's not you. It's your wood.

(That last part makes me really glad I'm typing this because I burst out laughing... And then I realized I have no idea if you're a gal or guy, but the statement could give a guy serious man issues. LOL!).

noregrets11

Thu, 09/05/2013 - 15:01

Ha! That part made me laugh, too! I'm a girl, so no strain on my psyche. (Except when I go to the big box stores to get my lumber and they ask me if my husband is going to help me sand??? WTH!?!?!?) I did figure out one part of my problem- I had the table legs lined up with the outside of my apron, not the inside, so I should be able to fix those. As for the table top slats, I'll take your advice and recheck my jig. Although it pains me, I think I'm going to scrap my table top and start over. Maybe the second time around will be better? Thanks for the advice!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!