Super Simple Bed Frame [Queen, Full and Twin Sizes]

white bed frame
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Do you need a nice, sturdy, great looking bed frame, but don't want to pay a fortune?  Here's how you can DIY your own for about the cost of the box spring (and you don't need a box spring!).  This is the perfect bed for kids, guest rooms, an airbnb, or apartment life.  Free plans by Ana-White.com

YESTERDAY My sister called me and said she wanted to build my niece a new bed in the next 24 hours.  She wanted something beautiful, sturdy, but also inexpensive and simple to build.  So we got our heads together and designed a 2x4 framed bed (the plans are below).

TODAY She sends me these photos!

white bed frame

LESS THAN 24 HOURS ago I sent her the plans.

full bed frame

My sister said this bed cost about $50 for her to build! 

Here's how she built it:

building a bed

Cut all the boards.  She used a miter saw, but you can also use a circular saw.

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Predrill holes for attaching the boards together.

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Attach the boards with screws and glue.

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Here's the headboard frame completed.

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Add plywood to the back with screws, nails, or staples.  YES you can use 1-1/4" Kreg Jig screws here.

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Fill any holes or imperfections with this stuff.  Sand with medium grit sandpaper.  Finish with fine grit sandpaper.

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Here's the headboard and footboard done.

painting a bed

Then paint or stain.  She choose a paint and primer to save time.  But this bed would take stain just as well!

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Move the pre-painted pieces into the room and assemble.

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We love how this bed frame turned out so much that we are sharing queen, full and twin plans for you!

Thank you for using the plans on this site.  If you do build, please share, we love seeing your projects!  Youc an tag me on Instagram @anawhitediy or create a brag post on this website.

Dimensions
queen bed frame dimensions
Dimensions shown for queen size, easy to adapt to full or twin bed frames

Preparation

Shopping List

TWIN BED FRAME SHOPPING LIST - Mattress 39" x 75"

  • 4 - 2x4 @ 8' long or 92-5/8" stud length
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 10' long
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 8' long or 92-5/8" stud length
  • 1 - 1/4" to 1/2" thick plywood or similar @ 40" x 40-3/4" (a half sheet is enough)
  • 6 - 1x4 or 7 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • About 40 - 2-1/2" long Kreg Pocket Hole Screws
  • About 50 - 1-1/4" long screws, brad nails, or staples for attaching back plywood and slats
  • Wood Glue

FULL OR DOUBLE BED FRAME CUT LIST - Mattress 54" x 75"

  • 3 - 2x4 @ 8' long or 92-5/8" stud length (cut 75" pieces from these boards and footboard legs)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 10' long or 104-5/8" stud length (cut the 50" pieces from these boards)
  • 3 - 2x6 @ 8' long or 92-5/8" stud length
  • 1 - 1/4" to 1/2" thick plywood or similar @ 55" x 40-3/4" 
  • 6 - 1x4 or 7 - 1x3 @ 10 feet long
  • About 45 - 2-1/2" long Kreg Pocket Hole Screws
  • About 60 - 1-1/4" long screws, brad nails, or staples for attaching back plywood and slats
  • Wood Glue

QUEEN BED FRAME CUT LIST - Mattress 60" x 75"

  • 3 - 2x4 @ 8' long or 92-5/8" stud length (cut 75" pieces from these boards and footboard legs)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 10' long (cut the 50" and 56" pieces from these boards)
  • 3 - 2x6 @ 8' long or 92-5/8" stud length
  • 1 - 1/4" to 1/2" thick plywood or similar @ 61" x 40-3/4" 
  • 6 - 1x4 or 7 - 1x3 @ 10 feet long
  • About 45 - 2-1/2" long Kreg Pocket Hole Screws
  • About 60 - 1-1/4" long screws, brad nails, or staples for attaching back plywood and slats
  • Wood Glue

Cut List

TWIN BED FRAME CUT LIST - Mattress 39" x 75"

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 50" - headboard legs
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 35" - headboard top and bottom
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 13-1/2" - footboard legs
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 35" - footboard main board
  • 1 - 1/4" to 1/2" thick plywood or similar @ 40" x 40-3/4"
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 75" - siderails
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - inside cleats
  • 12 - 1x4 or 14 - 1x3 @ 39" - bed slats

FULL OR DOUBLE BED FRAME CUT LIST - Mattress 54" x 75"

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 50" - headboard legs
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 50" - headboard top and bottom
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 13-1/2" - footboard legs
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 50" - footboard main board
  • 1 - 1/4" to 1/2" thick plywood or similar @ 55" x 40-3/4"
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 75" - siderails
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - inside cleats
  • 12 - 1x4 or 14 - 1x3 @ 54" - bed slats

QUEEN BED FRAME CUT LIST - Mattress 60" x 75"

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 50" - headboard legs
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 56" - headboard top and bottom
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 13-1/2" - footboard legs
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 56" - footboard main board
  • 1 - 1/4" to 1/2" thick plywood or similar @ 61" x 40-3/4"
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 80" - siderails
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80" - inside cleats
  • 12 - 1x4 or 14 - 1x3 @ 60" - bed slats

 

Cutting Instructions

The plywood cut doesn't have to be perfect - so have the hardware store make the cuts for you - it will be easier to transport and handle too.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the horizontal boards and attach to the legs as shown.  

Step 2

Attach plywood to the back with screws, nails or staples and glue.

Step 3

Drill three 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the 2x6 siderails.

Paint or stain the headboard, footboard and siderails.

In the room, attach siderails to the headboard and footboard, with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

The headboard attachment height is 13-1/2" (matches height of footboard).

Step 4

Add the inner cleats.

For queen and full size a center cleat is recommended.  

For contract grade (airbnb) or extra strength, center legs can be added to the center 2x4.

Step 5

Place slats about 4" apart on cleats and attach with the 1-1/4" fasteners.

Comments

DitchGuru

Sat, 10/17/2020 - 09:31

A standard king bed (not a cali king) is the same length, but it is 16" wider than a queen bed so all your width measurements would have to be increased by 16". So the plans would be the same as a queen, except the headboard top and bottom and the footboard main board cut lengths would be 72" instead of 56".
Also you would increase the bed slats from 60" to 76" and your plywood would be cut to 77" x 40-3/4", instead of 61" x 40-3/4".
Don't forget when purchasing your wood, this would change your shopping list.

DitchGuru

Sat, 10/17/2020 - 10:01

Also anyone making a Twin XL as I am, everything would be the same as a twin except the siderails and the inside cleats would be 80" instead of 75".

A cali king is 72" x 84", so both width (12") and length (4") would have to be increased accordingly to the queen plans. So the plans would be the same as a queen, except the headboard top and bottom and the footboard main board cut lengths would be 68" instead of 56".
Also you would increase the bed slats from 60" to 72" and your plywood would be cut to 73" x 40-3/4", instead of 61" x 40-3/4". The siderails and the inside cleats would be 84" instead of 75".

Hope this helps everyone.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!