Build a corner media stand! Free plans from Ana-White.com
1 – sheet ¾” plywood cut into strips 15 ¾” wide by 8 feet long (referred to as 1x16 boards in this plan)
1 – 1x6 @ 8 feet long (you can use scrap 1x16s ripped down if you have a tablesaw)
5 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 – sheet ¼” plywood (for back and door backs)
2 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x4 @ 6 feet long
5 ¼” base moulding (6 foot stick)
1x3s for door frame or other materials for doors
2” screws or 1 ¼” pocket hole screws
2” and 1 ¼” finish nails
2 – 1x16 @ 10 1/2" (dividers)
1 – 1x16 @ 20” (center shelf)
4 – 1x16 @ 48” – ends cut as shown in step 2 (shelves)
2 – 1x6 @ 47 1/4" (sides)
4 – 1x2 @ 47 1/4” (back supports)
1 – 1/4” plywood @ 24 1/2” x 47 1/4" (back middle)
2 – 1/4” plywood @ 13” x 47 1/4" (back middle)
2 – 1x2 @ 47 1/4” (side face frame)
3 – 1x2 @ 46 1/2" (shelf face frame trim)
2 – 1x4 @ 50 1/2"
1 – 1x4 @ 50 1/2" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point measurement)
1 – 1x4 @ 43 1/2" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point measurement)
1 – 1x4 @ 36 1/2" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point measurement)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Let's start by building those top shelves for the media controllers. I recommend using a Kreg Jig as Debbie did, but if you don't have one, you can also countersink screws or use a finish nailer and glue.
If you are using the Kreg Jig, go through the entire plan and mark out and drill all pocket holes now - it's easier to drill a pocket hole on a board rather than on a project!
Now we are going to add the top and bottom to the shelves. What I would do is attach the top from underside with 3/4" PHs and 1 1/4" PH screws, and then attach the bottom shelf from underside with 2" countersunk screws, as it will be very difficult to get your drill in there to drive a PH screw.
Now on the sides, mark out all shelf locations. PH users should drill 3/4" PHs along sides of all shelves. Attach with screws and glue.
And then add back pieces.
Now we do the face frame! You can build your face frame first with 3/4" PHs and 1 1/4" PH screws or attach each board with nails and glue.
Nail moulding on bottom mitering the corners.
And the decorative top isn't entirely necessary, but we wanted to add something pretty to the top. Nail down with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.
Debbie ended up doing overlay doors, which is a great idea. For inset doors, you will want to measure your openings - just to be SURE of the opening - and then build to suit. I like to leave 1/8" gaps all the way around. For overlay doors, build your doors slightly larger than the opening and use overlay hinges. Overlay doors will be easier to install and open and close easier.
For more details on this beautiful finish, please visit Debbie at Painted Therapy. Thanks Debbie!
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.