Tiny House Loft with Bedroom, Guest Bed, Storage and Shelving

Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

Plans for a tiny house loft with lower bedroom, storage drawers, and hidden sofa that converts to a guest bed. Detailed plans by Ana-White.com

Hi everyone!  Thanks for following along on our Tiny House Video Series!  A big thank you to everyone who has subscribed and followed along!

It's been fun, and I'm both sad and happy to be getting to the final stages.  Sad because that means this project is almost done.  And happy because I finally get to start sharing plans with you lovely people.

Today I'm sharing the first of the project plans for the tiny house.  But before we get to it, check out the orignial design -

Now are you ready to see how the loft area turned out?

I think what I love most about this loft area in the tiny house is that it is so simple and does not feel cluttered or complicated - yet it does so many things!

It's a couch.  A ladder.  A shelving display wall.  It's a real guest bed.  And a bedroom encloure.  It's also a queen bed.  And a dresser.  And a shoe storage system.  There's hidden storage.  And of course, it's a loft.

We put a ton of thought into each board in this loft bed system - did you notice that the wall framing becomes shelving?  That the bed support system is a dresser?  That the loft floor is only 1-1/2" thick where you need headroom?  It's a tiny house - you can't afford to waste space or materials (that take up space and cost weight).

Hope you enjoy the plans following (if this is the homepage click READ MORE below), and if you do build, please share, would love to see how this system works out for you.

Happy Building! 

Ana

PS - The stain on the upstairs floor is Rustoleum Early American with Triple Thick poly on top.  Best staining combo ever invented.  

 

PSS - Love this?  Pin for later!

And if you haven't done so already, please subscribe to our YouTube channel to get updates when new videos are published!

 

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above. Can be modified to fit different spaces.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 - 4X4 @ 6 FEET LONG
  • 14 - 2X4 @ 8 FEET LONG
  • 1 - 2X8 @ 8 FEET LONG
  • 2 - 2X8 @ 10 FEET LONG
  • 3 - 1X6 @ 8 FEET LONG
  • 2X6 TONGUE AND GROOVE FOR UPSTAIRS LOFT OF OTHER FLOORING
  • 1 SHEET OF 1/4" PLYWOOD FOR DRAWER BOTTOMS/SHOE STORAGE BACKS
  • 1 SHEET OF BEADBOARD, PANELING OR 1X6 T&G FOR BACK OF WALL
  • 1 SHEET OF 3/4" PLYWOOD FOR DRAWER/DOOR FACES
  • 2-1/2" POCKET HOLE SCREWS
  • 2-3/4" SELF TAPPING WOOD SCREWS (SPAX OR SIMILAR)
  • 5" LAG SCREWS FOR ATTACHING 4X4 TO WALL (JUST NEED A FEW)
  • 1-1/4" NAILS FOR ATTACHING SLATS TO FRAMING AND WALL MATERIAL BACKING
  • 3 - 24" BOTTOM SIDE MOUNT DRAWER SLIDES (WHITE)
  • 4 SETS OF HINGES IF HINGES ARE NOT SELF CLOSING MAY NEED CLASPS OR HASPS
  • 6 KNOBS OR HANDLES
  • BLACK PIPE FOR LADDER AND RAILING
Cut List

WALL

  • 1 - 4x4 @ 52"
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 71"
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 53"
  • 2 - 2X4 @ 13" - LADDER SUPPORTS
  • 1 - 2X4 @ 8" - LADDER SUPPORT
  • 1 - 1/4" PLYWOOD OR PANELING @ 45-3/4" X 60"
  • 1 - 3/4" PLYWOOD @ 52-3/4" X 12-3/4" (HIDDEN STORAGE DOOR)

 

QUEEN BED

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80"
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 16-1/2"
  • 1 - 2X8 @ 80"
  • 4 - 2X8 @ 58-1/2"

 

QUEEN BED DRAWERS (CUT TO FIT)

  • 6 - 1x6 @ 24"
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 22"
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 22-1/2"
  • 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 24" x 23-1/2"
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 24" x 24"
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood or 1x8s ripped to fit 7" x 24-1/4"
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood or 1x8s ripped to fit 7" x 24-3/4"
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood 16-1/4" x 24-1/4"
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood 16-1/4" x 24-3/4"
  • Bed slats are total of 80" long

 

WALL CLEATS 1 - 2x4 @ 76"

  • 1 - 2X4 @ 80"
  • 1 - 2X4 @ LENGTH OF ROOM (OURS WAS 94-1/2")

 

LOFT FLOOR FRAMING

  • 1 - 2X4 @ 60"
  • 4 - 2X4 @ 82"
  • 2X6 TONGUE AND GROOVE FOR FLOORING/CEILING
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set

Instructions

Step 1

Build the main wall system. The best way to attach into the 4x4 posts is with a Kreg Jig, hiding pocket holes on underside.

Step 2

Next, build the 2x4 bed support. We made ours using the self tapping wood screws (2-3/4" length but similar lengths would work just fine). Make sure this area is very square. Then attach the two pieces to the walls in the room and together using the 2-3/4" screws. You will need longer lag screws to attach 4x4s to the wall.

Step 3

Use a level to attach wall cleats to studs in the wall using the 2-3/4" screws.

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

I decided to use the 2x8s to support the mattress because it creates a nice sized cavity for drawers. 2x4 or 2x6 framing would have been fine too if you are not doing the drawers. If doing drawers take extra care to make sure the boards are attached square so you don't have a cockeyed drawer that doesn't slide right.

Step 7

We used leftover 1x6 tongue and groove from the wall paneling to cover the back of the "wall" but any material will do - beadboard, paneling, plywood - your choice. It's nice that this area is less than a full sheet of plywood. Just cut and attach with nails and glue.

Step 8

We used 2x6 tongue and groove for the upstairs loft. You could probably get away with 1x material, but not sure if I would recommend it with the span over the doorway being so close to 36". Another option is 3/4" plywood, then top with 3/4" hardwood flooring running the opposite direction.

Step 9

Drawers should always be built to fit openings and drawer slides. The picture shows the perfect situation. For the shoe tilt out drawers I just used 1x3s to box out an area, and scrap 1/4" plywood on the back, all attached to the door (see next step).

Step 10

Attach drawer faces and doors. There should be an 1/8" gap on all sides of the doors/drawers when installed properly.

Step 11

For the bed slats, I used a full length board (front edge painted) for the first slat, then burned up any 3/4" material for the remaining slats, splicing joints over the 2x8 framing.

Step 12

I hinged a piece of 3/4" plywood over the opening in the front. We cut a circle out in the middle to act as a handle.

Step 13

Store bought black iron pipe is an easy railing (though not code approved so please be reasonable and safe here) and ladder.

Comments

Angelika1962

Sun, 04/24/2016 - 11:09

I have enjoyed all 12 episodes of your Tiny House build, but I am still waiting for your plan on how you built your kitchen in this Tiny House! When should I expect to see it, or did I miss something! Lol! Thanks, Angie

Lareej

Thu, 06/02/2016 - 23:56

Love this design. Quick question though would it be terribly difficult or too heavy to make that upper section of the queen bed (with the pull out drawers) into a box with those cool hinges like the trundle has to utilize all that space? Thanks   p.s. The house looks awesome.

mconrad

Fri, 01/06/2017 - 10:10

What kind of wood should I use for loft bed in your tiny house?  We are building this at our lake house. 

mconrad

Fri, 02/24/2017 - 21:57

We are almost done making this loft bed in our lake house. As soon as it is done i will post pictures.  I was wondering where you got the chairs that make into beds that i see in your picture of the tiny house loft?  

Thanks

Margie Conrad

jessalvarado17

Wed, 02/21/2018 - 10:51

Hi there I am wanting to build two of these this weekend for my large family. At some points my celings are 6 foot high. Could you possibly help me modify these plans (since I am new at doing this kind of stuff)! Any advise is great. I would like to do this asap!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!