Triple Pedestal Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 11/30/2012 - 11:42
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free easy DIY plans to build a triple pedestal farmhouse table for $125! Plans from Ana-white.com

One hundred and twenty five dollars. 

 $125. 

 That's what this table - made of solid wood - cost to make.

I teamed up with my DIY friend Ashley from Shanty2Chic for this plan.

We changed up the top a little to really show off those beautiful solid wood boards!

And got a little fancy with the legs to really make this table unique and full of character!

Now we just need some benches! {hint hint}

Here's from Ashley:

There is no way I could have a $1,000 (plus shipping and tax) dining table in our home with 2 boys and a toddlerWinking smile So, as always, I enlisted the help of our very sweet and talented friend, Ana White! She nailed it and after her awesome plans and my elbow grease, I now have a ridiculously gorgeous, expensive-looking, grand dining table and it only cost me $125!  Who would have thought that 2x4's and pine boards could be so fancy!  

If you want to make this table for yourself, of course we got you covered with the free plans.  But take a second to stop over and read from Ashley at Shanty2Chic how she built and finished this table.  Don't you LOVE that finish?  So beautiful!

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long
1 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x6 @ 10 feet long
1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long (more if not using pocket holes - see plan notes)
6 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 10 feet long*
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x2 @ 10 feet long*
1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
2 1/2” and 3” screws
1 1/4” pocket hole screws
Wood glue

*decorative and can be spliced

Cut List

LEGS
6 - 2x4 @ 21 3/4”
6 - 2x4 @ 8 1/8”
6 - 2x6 @ 34 1/4” (both ends beveled at 45 degrees, long point to long point, ends NOT parallel)
12 - 2x8 @ 7 1/4” (cut out in arch shape)
3 - 2x6 @ 36” (both ends beveled at 30 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends NOT parallel)
3 - 2x6 @ 36 1/2”
6 - 1x3 @ 5 1/2” (OR 1x6 @ 2 1/2”)
1 - 2x6 @ 90 1/2”

TABLETOP
12 - 1x6 @ 47 3/4”
2 - 2x4 @ 106”
3 - 2x4 @ 33”
2 - 1x2 @ 102 1/2”
2 - 1x2 @ 39 1/2”
2 - 2x2 @ 103”
2 - 2x2 @ 40”

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

You'll need to make three of these. If you have a nailer, that will be the best way to go. Keep outside edges flush and use glue. TIP: Make sure your stretcher board fits in the middle opening.

Step 2

Next add the top and bottom.

Step 3

Now add the decorative pieces. You'll cut these with a jigsaw and sand smooth first before attaching.

Step 4

And then the base board.

Step 5

Step 6

Adding feet will make your table sit on the six little feet - very handy if you have uneven floors. Then you can just shim the one foot not cooperating.

Step 7

Now it gets fun! Put the stretcher in place.

Step 8

And now let's move on to the table top. I highly recommend a Kreg Jig here.

Step 9

And the decorative aprons. Don't forget the glue here.

Step 10

Add the finishing touches here. Use glue and screws or nails. Predrill to avoid wood splitting.

Step 11

Now we can add the base!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type

Comments

jaimej

Fri, 11/30/2012 - 13:37

Wow - I love the feel of the original farmhouse table, but didn't like the legs as they seemed to be in the way - this is the perfect fix and so beautiful. I don't even have a first build under my belt yet, but I will definitely put this down on the list as one to tackle after a little experience!

dmcarwin

Fri, 11/30/2012 - 13:53

This is so beautiful! I really love it! Great job Ashley, and Ana you are truly inspired and talented, and I know you hear that a lot, but it is so true. As I have said before, I LOVE to build, because of your awesome plans! Thanks again!

jezsika0910 (not verified)

Fri, 11/30/2012 - 18:37

Wow I love this table!!!!!!!! Really wondering how it was only 125.00???

bubbajoj

Wed, 12/27/2017 - 20:08

I bought the lumber and hardware for this table and the benches today at a cost of $186. All I need to purchase yet is the stain and poly. 

Wona (not verified)

Sat, 12/01/2012 - 04:04

I'm wondering if the wood is just regular pine or if it is something a little more expensive. I think most of our 2x4s here are of pine.

Jessica M (not verified)

Sat, 12/01/2012 - 06:04

I Love it! would it be possible to make it shorter? Only two legs instead of three? I would love to make it for my kitchen table and 106" is too long.

Dorn (not verified)

Sat, 12/01/2012 - 07:12

I would love to find some similar design chairs to match this table. Do you have or know of any plans for chairs.

kristen

Sat, 12/01/2012 - 07:15

I love this plan also!! And who can beat the price tag??!! I'm seriously thinking about building this one (I've considered building almost all of Ana's plans when they come out, lol!). I would need to shorten it AND would want seating on the ends. After looking at the plans, I don't think either one would affect the structural integrity of the table for the people who were questioning that. Two legs will support this table just fine--especially with it shortened. And since the legs fully support the table top across its width, it shouldn't matter if you move them in a bit for seating on the end.