Truss Coffee Table

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 01/04/2013 - 11:41
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Free plans to build a truss style coffee table from

Hi everyone and Happy Friday!!!

Thank you for the lovely comments on my DIY Health post, you are the most wonderful readers ever and I am so thankful to be able to share the less than perfect aspects of my life with you.  The more energy we have, the more we can build, right?  Let's make 2013 the best year yet!

Do you remember this Truss End Table plan that was built by my dear friend Ashley over at Shanty2Chic?

Ashley didn't need a coffee table as you had already built this one (plans here):

But I've had a number of requests for a coffee table to match the truss styling of the end tables.  So I though today I'd tackle those plans for you!

Like the end tables, this one is built with 2x3 base.  If you don't have 2x3s at your local hardware store, a single 2x6 can be ripped down to 2 - 2x3s - just cut to 2 1/2 wide.

If you are looking for an inexpensive wood coffee table, that is sturdy and full of character, this might be the one!  Check the plans out below!

Here's to a weekend full of DIY!


Dimensions shown above.


Shopping List

3 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x3 @ 8 feet long
For attaching, you can use countersunk screws (3" wood screws) or 2 1/2" PH screws and glue.

Cut List

4 - 2x3 @ 16 3/4" (legs - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square BEVEL long point to short point, ends ARE parallel)
4 - 2x3 @ 19" (end stretchers)
1 - 2x3 @ 37 3/4" (bottom stretcher - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square ANGLE long point to long point ends are NOT parallel)
1 - 2x3 @ 33 3/4" (top stretcher - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square ANGLE long point to long point ends are NOT parallel)
2 - 2x3 @ 20" (truss detail - cut down to make up truss parts - if you saw cuts 55 degree angles, you can also cut these with ends parallel at 55 degrees off square, long point to short point, 15" long)
5 - 2x6 @ 48" (tabletop)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

First, build your two leg ends. They will be identical. You can use 1 1/2" PHs on each end of the aprons and 2 1/2" screws to attach, or you can attach from outsides with screws and glue. If you choose to countersink, first drill a hole the size of your screw head 1 1/2" into the leg. Then attach your screw, countersinking the head into the leg 1 1/2".

NOTE: If you plan to attach top with pocket holes (see step 5) then drill 1 1/2" PHs facing upward on insides of top aprons.

Step 2

Find the centers of your end stretchers and attach the top and bottom stretchers with 2 1/2" to 3" screws or with pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 3

If your miter saw cuts a 55 degree angle, cut your truss boards and fit in place. Otherwise, cut the truss boards to 20" length and set in place and mark angles by hand. Cut the angles with a circular saw and fit in place.

Step 4

I recommend building tabletop first with 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws, or edge gluing and clamping to create your tabletop.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Thu, 02/18/2016 - 14:57

I'm interested in building this coffee table and would like to use some wood harvested from my family farm for the top.  It was originally cut to be used for flooring.  There are 3", 4", and 5" wide pieces.  The problem is these are 3/4"-1" thick, so they are more like 1X's than the 2X's called for.  How can I modify this plan to use these boards without altering the overall aesthetic of the table?  Thanks in advance for the suggestions!