Build a hutch for your bathroom vanity with recessed lights! Free DIY tutorial from Ana-White.com
6 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long (I used primed MDF boards)
1 - 1x10 @ 6 feet long (I used primed MDF boards)
1 - 1x3 @ 6 feet long
1 - 4 1/4" base moulding @ 6 feet long
4 recessed cabinet lights
5 - 1x8 @ 48" (you can cut these at 47 3/4" if you need to to get two cuts out of a single 8 foot long board)
8 - 1x8 @ 10 1/2"
1 - 1x10 @ 48"
2 - 1x10 @ 6 1/2" (cut to fit!)
1 or 2 1x3 @ 7 1/4 (depends on if your vanity is in a corner)
1 - 1x3 @ 48 3/4" or 49 1/2" (depending on if your vanity is in a corner)
4 1/4" base moulding cut to fit
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
First, build two towers. Now, you may need to adjust your tower size depending on where your vanity light is located, how much room you have on top of your vanity, and how wide your vanity/sink is.
We build the towers with finish nails (1 1/4") and glue.
Once the two towers are built, we added a board on top for the recessed lights. we have a standard 48" wide vanity, so this board is 48" long for us. We just nailed it to the two towers.
To make things easy, we installed the recessed lights on the ground, and connected all the wires. Then when we put the vanity in place, we just have to wire the fixtures to the vanity light box.
Then we moved the hutch in place. We were able to secure it to the inside wall, but the towers themselves didn't fall on a stud so ours is just resting on our vanity top (acually held in place by the crown moulding) and we haven't had an issue in 7 years. But you can attach yours with brackets or adding cleats to the underside of shelves.
We build the box first on the ground and then just slid it in place and nailed through the bottom board to attach. The base moulding (to be added shortly) really beefed up this joint.
NOTE: Depending on your ceiling height and vanity light location, you may wish to use a 1x8 or 1x12 on top. Just leave enough room that you can position the box in place without damaging your ceiling.
And then the base moulding added a little detail and also strengthened this joint. You'll want to use shorter nails here as the base moulding is usually less than 3/4" thick.
Then we added crown moulding around the entire room, including the vanity itself. This finished out the top joint.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.