Versatile Shop cart/ workbench with inserts

workbench plans
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Versatile Shop Cart with inserts for miter saw and kreg jig...or just a workbench top

workbench plans
workbench plans

Hello, today I drew up the plans for the shop cart that I posted a picture of the other day and by request...here come the plans :) I have used this everyday since making it so I am so happy to share something that is useful with everyone...I hope you all enjoy!

Dimensions
workbench plans dimensions
32" high, , 25 1/2" deep, 37.5" wide

Preparation

Shopping List
  • MDF or Plywood 3/4" - 2 sheets
  • Plywood - 1/4" 2' x 4'
  • 3 - 1 x 3 x 8
  • 4 - 1 x 4 x 8
  • 1 - 1 x 2 x 8
  • 1-1/4" kreg screws
Cut List

MDF or Plywood 3/4"

  • (2) 36 x 24
  • (1) 36 x 23 3/4 plywood

 

1/4" Plywood - 36 x 23

 

3/4 Pine

  • (4) 1 x 4 x 37.7
  • (4) 1 x 4 x 24
  • (8) 1 x 3 x 21
  • (2) 1 x 3 x 19
  • (2) 1 x 2 x 23 3/4
Tools
Tape Measure
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Create the base by using (2) 1 x 4 x 37.5" pieces and (2) 1 x 4 x 24" pieces

drill pocket holes on both ends of each 1 x 4 x 24" piece to attach to the end pieces...the 24" pieces go inside the 37.5:"ones

Step 2

using the (8) 1 x 3 x 21" pieces, attach two together to form a leg...do this to make four legs

drill pocket hols to attach them and also pocket holes on each end to attach to the base and the top in the next step

Step 3

Same as step one, just this goes on the top of the legs you just made

Step 4

Insert the top MDF or Plywood 3/4 " piece. Inset this down 3/4 of an inch to leave room for all the inserts you can make

drill pocket holes all the way around the mdf or plywood piece to attach.

easy way for a little help is to attach two 1 x 2 pieces 1.5" down for support while you are putting the mdf sheet in place

Step 5

Step 6

attach the back 1/4" plywood piece using a brad nailer, small screws, or small nails

Step 7

add side supports 1 x 3 x 19" on each side. measure 17 1/2 inches up from the bottom as your starting point

Step 8

on the inside of those supports add a 1 x 2 x 23 3/4 piece.

this will be your shelf support

Step 9

add the 36 x 23 3/4" mdf or plywood piece for the shelf...drill pocket holes on the sides of the mdf or plywood to attach it to the side supports

Step 10

at the bottom add 2 1 x 3 x 24 piece for the casters to attach too...(the casters will attache in three spots without this piece, so it may not be necessary, but i like the added support

Step 11

Here is the miter saw insert I made - LOVE THIS!!!!!!!!!!!

insert is 35 7/8" x 23 7/8"

i made the top pieces as high as my miter saw surface for extra board support

turns out those are nice and handy storage spots for smaller cut pieces to use later

Step 12

Kreg jig insert I made

this insert is 12 x 35 7/8

i placed the jig in the middle on the top and made the pieces 1 inch high on each side (same height as board height on jig....nice for longer boards

i also placed handles on the outside top sides of this for easy carrying

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

davidmauer14

Tue, 02/26/2013 - 14:53

There as good Ana's plans. I will probably adapt the plans to build my own version of this shop cart, but I'll use 2x4s to strengthen it. And I'll add my own suggestion for a work top.
D.

DorothyJean

Sun, 04/12/2015 - 09:05

Hi David;
I am a newbie, I like this cart tho'. Would you be replacing all the 1X4's/1X3's with 2x4's? or just the 1X4's?

adecesare4

Wed, 02/27/2013 - 21:35

Sure...sounds like a perfect plan...it is very sturdy as but 2 x 4's will definitely do that...and your top idea was great as well...I did do that...just didnt take a pic of that....

David suggested also making a workbench insert that basically would use a 35 7/8" x 23 7/8 inch insert piece with another piece that would be slightly larger like 40 x 26 attached above it to make a nice solid workbench station as well. Great ideas, love collaboration

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!