Wall Mounted Can Organizer

can organizer
Difficulty
Intermediate
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This can organizer will free up so much pantry space!  It fits 32 cans in less than 4" on the wall. The clear acrylic glass (in an off the shelf size) keeps cans visible so you know when you are running low, and automatically rotates older cans to the front.  

It's made of inexpensive 1x3s and is screwed together with a drill.  It's super easy to hang too! Our free plans and video walk you through the process, so even a novice DIYer can tackle this project!  

We have a good sized pantry with deep shelves, but the can food situation never was quite right.  We have ample shelving space - it was more keeping the cans organized AND visible, but not having to go rearrange cans every couple of days.  Who wants to do that?

On my last trip home from Costco, when I realized I had THREE cases of diced tomatoes already in the pantry, I had my moment.  The canned food situation had to change.  

At first, I thought of ways to create canned food systems on the shelf.  We had been gifted a wire rack for the shelf, but the problem was keeping only one kind of can in each row - if one person went rouge on you, it's was all over.

And then it hit me.  The canned food needed to be in a dispenser on the big blank wall at the end of my pantry.  

How did I not see that sooner.

Anyway, after a couple of days of thinking about it, I built this!

can dispenser   can organizer

It's pretty simple - all 1x3 boards, just screwed together with acrylic glass on top.   The trick was cutting the bottom at an angle, so the cans stay inside the divider.  And the acrylic glass on the front so I can see exactly how many cans of diced tomatoes I have all the time.  I was lazy, so I designed the entire organizer to fit so I wouldn't have to cut the acrylic glass.

Features

  • Low profile design takes up minimal space on the wall
  • Automatically rotates older cans to the front
  • Cans dispense easily, but won't fall out on their own
  • Simple build using all off the shelf materials and basic tools
  • Clear glass front keeps cans in plain sight so you know when you are running low
  • Easy to hang with built in hanging supports on the back
  • Can be easily modified to fit different height cans

 

No Acrylic Glass?  No Problem!

You can use 1x2s and 1x3s instead of the acrylic glass, if that's your preference.  It'll be cheaper and easier to build this way too.  Just screw the 1x2s and 1x3s to the front of the dividers.

can organizer

 

Plans Sized Down from Photos

I do need to tell you that the canned food organizer that I built was a full 12 cans high - which is super awesome - but dropping the first can in 12 cans high is a little sketchy - will the can blow up?  Will it shatter out the front acrylic glass?  It hasn't yet on me, maybe it never will, but just to be safe, for these plans, I adjusted so its only 8 cans high.

If you need more can storage, my recommendation is simply to build two (or more) organizers, and stack them up.

 

Video Tutorial

We filmed the build process for this project, so please watch before you build for lots of tips and tricks.

 

Can Organizer Plans

The free plans for this can organizer follow.  We hope your project turns out amazing and can't wait to see photos.  Please send some our way when done via creating a brag post or tagging me on Instagram #anawhite

 

Dimensions
can organizer dimensions
Suitable for cans less than 5" tall, 3" diameter - Holds 32 standard sized cans

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 18" x 24" sheet of acrylic glass like this from Lowes or 1x2s and 1x3s can be substituted
  • 3 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 50 - 2" self tapping wood screws
  • 15 - 1-1/4" wood screws for attaching acrylic glass to the front, make sure the back of the screw head is flat to avoid breaking the acrylic glass (can use Kreg Jig screws) - if using the acrylic glass
  • Wood glue
Cut List

2 - 1x3 @ 22-1/2"

2 - 1x3 @ 27-3/4" - long point measurement, one end cut at 15 degrees off square

3 - 1x3 @ 26-1/8" - long point measurement, one end cut at 15 degrees off square

2 - 1x3 @ 24"

 

Cutting Instructions

Cut the 1x3 boards with a compound miter saw.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set

Instructions

Step 1

Attach sides to top and bottom pieces.

Note that the back should be completely flush, the front of the angled bottom will overhang.

Use glue and 2" screws.

If wood is splitting, predrill holes with a drill bit sized to match the screw shaft (not including the threads).

Use the speed square to adjust the project for square before glue fully dries.

Step 2

Add the vertical dividers, two screws on top and two on bottom.

Step 3

The back supports are very important to give you something to hang the canned food organizer on the wall.

Apply ample glue.

Attach with 2" screws.

Make sure you attach with screws into the bottom angled 1x3 as this board will bear all the weight of the canned food.

Step 4

Place acrylic glass on top.

Predrill holes sized bigger than the screw (including threads) through the acrylic glass (but not fully into the wood) over every vertical divider, one at top, one at bottom, and one in the middle.

Attach with the 1-1/4" screws.

Step 5

Hang the organizer to studs in the wall.

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I sanded any rough edges with 120 grit sandpaper.
I painted everything white with Behr Marquee satin in off the shelf white.

Comments

sduerk

Tue, 10/29/2019 - 11:22

Great idea. Thanks Ana. 

I got stuck on a project yesterday that I don't understand. Your plan above addresses it. I built a bench with 3 cubbies under it for kids "stuff". I could not figure out mathematically how to determine how wide every cubby should be with my 3/4" dividers. I thought I should take the width of the bench, subtract out the width of the dividers (2x3/4 = 1.5") and divide by three. However, I always ended up with one cubby being much larger than the other two. What was I doing wrong? Thanks in advance for your help and thank you for your awesome website. 

Scott 

In reply to by sduerk

Ana White

Fri, 11/01/2019 - 14:48

Sometimes wood can be thicker (or thinner) or other small issues that add up.

What I often will do is place all the dividers in the shelf, all to one side.  Then measure the opening that is left, and divide by the number of desired openings.

DiNeums70

Sat, 07/11/2020 - 10:43

Perfect Ana! Thanks for that tip. KISS-keep it simple stupid, I always forget this!!
Thanks for making your plans so easy to follow. The diagrams are so very helpful.
Happy Building!
Di

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!