Wide Rustic X Kitchen Island

rustic x kitchen island with butcher block top
Difficulty
Advanced
| Print this plan

Free plans to build Rustic X Kitchen Island with drawers in - double width - plans from Ana-White.com

Reader submitted photo BHOPPY with oversized butcher block top.  

The plans below without modifications use a standard top size.

rustic x kitchen island plans

 

We also have plans for a smaller Rustic X Kitchen Island built with Shanty2Chic!  

 

 

 

 

 

Dimensions
dimensions for rustic C kitchen island
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - 3/4" thick top 24" x 52" (recommend a premade project panel)
  • 5 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long (cut the 31 1/2" long pieces from this board)
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 4 feet long (cut the shelves from this board)
  • 3 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long
  • 1 - 1x8 @ 4 feet long
  • 4' 1x10 board for the drawer stops
  • 2 - 10"x18" 1/2" plywood pieces for drawer bottoms (can be scraps or purchase a 1/4" sheet)
  • 4 caster wheels that can be mounted on bottom of 2x4

NOTE: Cut list and shopping list has been updated per reader comments on 9/18/2013

Common Materials
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
Cut List
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 32 1/4" (legs)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 19 1/2" (leg top/bottoms)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 27 5/8" (long point to long point, both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 13 3/4" (longest point measurement, one end cut at 45 degrees)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 43 1/2" (front bottom apron)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 46 1/2" (middle bottom apron)
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 43 1/2" (top aprons/bottom of drawer trim)
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 7 1/2" (drawer center trim)
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 17 1/2" (shelf area center trim)
  • 3 - 1x12 @ 31 1/2" (shelf sides)
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 22 1/8" (drawer area backs)
  • 14 - 1x3 @ 14 1/4" (bottom shelf slats)
  • 2 - 1x12 @ 22 1/8" (shelves)
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 10 1/2" (drawer slides)
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 24" (top trim sides)
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 50 1/2" (top trim front/back)
  • 1 - 3/4" thick top 24" x52"

 

DRAWERS - measure and cut to fit so there's an 1/8" gap on each side!!! Measurements given should be used as a guide only.

  • 4 - 1x6 @ 11 1/4" (drawer sides)
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 17 3/8" (drawer front and back)
  • 2 - 1/2" plywood 9 3/4" x 17 3/8" (drawer bottoms)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 11 1/4" (drawer slide cleats)
  • 2 - 1x8 @ 20 3/4" (drawer faces)

 

NOTE: Cut list and shopping list has been updated per reader comments on 9/18/2013

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start by building the two leg ends. Note that the outside and bottom are not flush.

TIP: Drill 3/4" pocket holes on insides of top 2x4s for attaching top in later steps.

Step 2

Attach the center Xs inside the leg/end apron frames. Remember to build two.

Step 3

Next, attach the two leg sets together with the bottom 2x4s. Note that the bottom boards are at the same height as the bottom 2x4s in the leg sets - set up 3/4" from bottom of actual legs.

Step 4

Attach the 2x2s to the top, leaving space between for the drawer. Also, I added a third 2x2 to the baci for extra support and to square things up now.

Step 5

Step 6

Attach the drawer/shelf sides. Make sure the center partition is exactly centered all the way down and across - otherwise your drawers will slide cockeyed.

Step 7

Attach the back boards to finish out the back of the drawer area.

Step 8

Attach shelf slats evenly spaced on bottom shelf area.

Step 9

Then attach shelves - these can be made fixed by attaching with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. They can also be adjustable if you use shelf pins.

Step 10

There's a few different ways to do the drawers, but since they are so shallow (less than 12") it's hard to find small drawer slides. The 2x2s act as cleats to hold the drawer in the opening. Apply candle wax to top to make the drawer slide easier.

Attach with just 2 2" screws for now - you may need to adjust to get the drawer to slide just right.

Step 11

Build your drawers as shown above - but build to fit the opening. Measure between the 2x2s and subtract 1/4" (1/8" for each side) and make this the overall width of your drawer box (not including the 1x2 cleats)

If you use pocket holes to build the drawer, place on outsides of front and back - they will get hidden by drawer face.

Step 12

Adjust drawer until it slides easily. They should sit inset 3/4" to allow for the drawer face.

Step 13

With the drawers installed,cut the 1x8 drawer faces to fit the openings, leaving an 1/8" gap around all sides. Attach to drawer boxes with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.

Step 14

Frame out the top with 1x2s. These can be nailed and glued on.

Step 15

Attach top through the 2x2s on the underside of the top and through predrilled pocket holes. You can also carefuly drill holes through the 1x2 trim into the underside of the top.

Step 16

Attach caster wheels to base of legs.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

katie0910

Thu, 09/19/2013 - 14:58

Thank you so much for these great plans! I bought my wood today and I'm building it right now. I just wanted to point out that the shopping list is missing a 4' long 1x10 board for the drawer backs. Can't wait to upload a brag post of the finished product!

phillysuperfuzz

Sat, 01/18/2014 - 12:40

I am building this now too.... almost finished! I just wanted to give a tip on the drawers. If you only use 2x2s for the bottom drawer slides, the drawers will tip forward as you pull them up. It would be best to put matching 2x2 cleats on top. That way, you can pull the drawer out and not have to hold it up.

Claulino

Sun, 02/08/2015 - 06:16

My congratulations , you are an amazing woman!
I loved this job , I'm starting this table hope I can leave it as beautiful as yours.
Thank you very much.
Claulino

Meus parabéns, você é uma mulher incrível!
Adorei este trabalho, já estou iniciando esse projeto espero que eu consiga deixa-lo tão bonito quanto o seu.
Muito obrigado.
Claulino

caliotto

Fri, 06/26/2015 - 22:04

Hi all.
I'm building this island this coming week but have to resize it to fit the granite I purchased for another island option. I wanted to stain it to match an oak table but can't afford oak for this whole project. Have decided to paint it white. Does anyone have any suggestions for the type of wood I should use that is easy to work with, finished nicely, and is sturdy enough to hold a piece of granite 18x48x2?
Thank you for your help!!

sumitbansal

Tue, 07/14/2015 - 07:44

Hello there,

 

I really like this Island and would like to try it out. This will be my first DIY project. Hope I will able to finish it cheeky

Has anyone considered putting in Garbage bin pull out in this island?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!