Woven Back Bench

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 04/04/2013 - 11:00
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Free plans to build a woven back bench from Ana-White.com

It's time to build outdoor furniture!!! 

My friend and DIYer Extraordinaire Gina from Lady Goats has been wanting to build a bench with a basket weave pattern for a back.  I was so honored that she asked for my help in coming up with a plan that we could share with you!

About $30 and a day later .... this is what built!

Isn't Gina's bench just beautiful?

I love the woven wood look on back

But if you prefer an X back, no worries - just skip the added Y pieces!  

Of course we've got you covered with the free step by step plans.  But please take a second to go visit Gina at Lady Goats for lots more pictures and information on how she built her bench.

Thank you Gina!

Dimensions shown in diagram


Shopping List

3 - 2 x 4 studs
6 - 2 x 2 x 8
1 - 1 x 4 x 8 (furring strip)
1 - 1 x 2 x 8 (furring strip)
1 - 1 x 3 x 8 (furring strip)

Common Materials
Cut List

2 - 2x4 @ 35" (backs - cut backs from these)
2 - 2x2 @ 23 1/4"
2 - 2x2 @ 16"
2 - 2x4 @ 16"
2 - 2x2 @ 16 3/4" (longest point measurement, one end cut at 6 degrees off square)
3 - 2x4 @ 37"
2 - 2x2 @ 37"
4 - 2x2 @ 12 1/2"
2 - 2x2 @ 17 5/8" (ends cut to 45 degree points, longest point measurement)
4 - 2x2 @ 8 1/8" (one end cut to 45 degree point, longest point measurement)
8 - 2x2 @ 6 1/4" (longest point measurement, one end cut at 45 degrees off square)
8 - 2x2 @ 3 5/8" (longest point measurement, one end cut at 45 degrees off square)
4 - 1x4 @ 40"
1 - 1x2 @ 37"

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Start by cutting the back legs out. I recommed cutting the long straight cuts with a circular saw, and then finishing the cuts with a handsaw or jigsaw, but you could make the entire cuts with a jigsaw as well. Just make sure you have the right blade, it's sharp, and you go slow and sand the cut edge well.

You'll need to cut two. Make sure you mark the boards as shown in diagram before cutting.

Step 2

Next, add to the back legs the front legs, seat support, arm rest support and bottom stretcher. Make two and make sure they match. Easiest way is 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue but countersunk screws could work too. If using pocket holes, try hiding on underside whenever possible to prevent water pooling in your pocket holes.

Step 3

Once you have the two legs done, join together with 2x4s. With the bench frame complete, let's set aside and work on the back.

Step 4

I'd lay all the boards out first just to make sure everything fits. And then start assembling. For a painted finish, pocket holes on the back sides will work great.

TIP: Hide pocket holes on insides of the 2x2s - will get covered up in next step.

Step 5

Step 6

And then make up 8 of these little Y guys and attach in place. These are more decorative than anything, so a good outdoor glue could even be used to secure.

Step 7

And then attach to back.

If you used pocket holes, I highly recommend filling any exposed holes with plugs.

Step 8

Attach bottom stretcher to base.

Step 9

And finally, add the seat slats on top.

These can be attached from underside with 2" screws and glue to hide screw holes.

Step 10

Don't forget the arm rests! You can attach these from the underside with 2" screws and glue to hide any holes.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Thu, 04/04/2013 - 13:24

This looks like the perfect project for Mother's Day! I can't wait to get started. Thanks!

However, the PDF link doesn't seem to be working.


Thu, 04/04/2013 - 15:34

I have a serious obsession with benches and I totally want to build this one! Not sure when I can get to it, but I am pinning for sure! Thanks ladies! I love the beautiful back! And you make cutting the back legs look so doable!


Thu, 04/04/2013 - 20:48

Holy crap!!! I love this!!! This is amazing and I'm gonna build this for sure!!! I was looking for something to put in the courtyard I'm going to be building near my new customer entrance and this is it baby!!! Good job on this it's gorgeous!!!


Fri, 04/05/2013 - 20:18

Love this bench. It's beautiful. Would love to make a couple of them for my yard, but I can't get the pattern to download for pdf. :(


Wed, 04/17/2013 - 08:18

I am trying to build this and am stuck with how to attach the cross pieces and the y pieces to the frame Pocket holes split the wood at the angles...I am thinking nails and glue but not sure if it will hold up. Am I just doing something wrong with the kreg jig? It looks gorgeous all dry fitted I just can't figure out how to attach it all...ideas??

In reply to by dinifam

Lady Goats

Wed, 04/17/2013 - 12:50

Hi dinifam! Since these boards aren't structural, I'll teach you my cheat for when my 2x2s keep splitting. Set your jig for 3/4" stock instead of 11/2", and use 1 1/4" screws. This'll hold the boards very firmly in place while the glue dries, and provide some support. I don't use this method for structural boards, but use it frequently for decorative boards that split. Hope this helps!

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