Trying to get set up. Have a number of tools, but I feel I am forever running out to get more of the basics (screws, nails, glue, sandpaper). What screw sizes tend to be most helpful (both # & length)? What sandpaper grits are used the most?
On what you want to do. Everybody works a little differently.
I've always got a bunch of 1 1/4" screws on hand, in varying sized and head types. They get significantly cheaper if you buy boxes rather than packages. If you're addicted to your pocket hole jig you'll want plenty of the flat bottomed screws with a square drive (#2 Robertson drive if you get them from a Canadian supplier).
I also like to keep a small stock of #6 1 1/4" wood screws. With a countersink these are incredibly versatile. Do yourself a favor though and skip the drill-chucked countersinks that the big box stores sell. Harbor Freight and a few other places sell a hand countersink, which cut the countersink just as fast and don't require you to change out your drill.
I also always keep shellac, wiping polyurethane and water based polyurethane (sometimes called acrylic polyurethane) on hand. These are good basic finishes that work for most situations. Shellac is also a good sealer to ensure good uniform painting and finishing.
Buy bulk packs of the grades of sandpaper you use the most (I have 80, 100 and 150 grit), and cut them to fit your sanders. It's way cheaper.
Same with steel wool: a big pack of 0000 and one of the coarse stuff.
Towels - a big pack of white staining rags (cotton knit) you will use and toss, nd one of shop towels you will wash.
Finishing materials: a gallon of mineral spirits.
Paint rollers: a "contractor pack" of the covers. I use cheap brushes, bought in bulk, and toss them when they are trashed.
I have the advantage of having had a dad who NEVER threw away a screw or a nail, so I can find any odd sizes I need the coffee cans he stored them in. (junk piles, gotta love them).
Stop and think what kind of projects you will be making, what thickness wood you will be using, and buy suitable fasteners in bulk for that size wood.
You need "medium" if you are removing wood or old finishes. Medium is 60 or 80 grit. There's also coarse and extra coarse, 30-50 grit, for removing wood even faster. I don't use it.
"Fine", 100-120 grit, is for sanding bare wood before finishing.
"Extra fine", 150-220 grit, is for sanding bare wood and between coats.
Beyond that, some people use 320 grit sandpaper, steel wool and other things. Now you are into "polishing".
I find keeping one of each type on hand convenient. You don't need multiple grits of one type. Now I have 60,120,and 220 on hand.
3M makes very good sandpaper that is widely available - and yes, there is a big difference. For one thing, it lasts much longer. That alone makes up for any difference in cost to me.
Sand Paper
Here's what I know from Gunsmithing.
Each increasingly fine type of sandpaper is for removing the scratches from the one before it.
For wood, I use 4O grit to remove raised grain and rough spots. I keep using 40 grit until I am satisfied that I have a smooth surface. Then I switch to 80 to smooth out the bigger scratches left by the 40, then to 120, then 240.
It is important to keep with the rougher more aggressive sandpaper to remove more material faster. If you switch to finer grit to soon you will smooth the high spots and the low spots will stand out more. This causes you to back up and use the more aggressive coarser grit again.
The happy news is the more time spent with coarse paper, halves the time spent with finer.
After your first coat of varnish or paint you may wish to sand again for the very smooth finish Use 600 grit and sand by hand in one direction only. This can make for a very smooth paint or finish job.
claydowling
Wed, 03/30/2011 - 11:33
Completely depends
On what you want to do. Everybody works a little differently.
I've always got a bunch of 1 1/4" screws on hand, in varying sized and head types. They get significantly cheaper if you buy boxes rather than packages. If you're addicted to your pocket hole jig you'll want plenty of the flat bottomed screws with a square drive (#2 Robertson drive if you get them from a Canadian supplier).
I also like to keep a small stock of #6 1 1/4" wood screws. With a countersink these are incredibly versatile. Do yourself a favor though and skip the drill-chucked countersinks that the big box stores sell. Harbor Freight and a few other places sell a hand countersink, which cut the countersink just as fast and don't require you to change out your drill.
I also always keep shellac, wiping polyurethane and water based polyurethane (sometimes called acrylic polyurethane) on hand. These are good basic finishes that work for most situations. Shellac is also a good sealer to ensure good uniform painting and finishing.
mamajama24-7
Wed, 03/30/2011 - 18:31
How do you know what size
How do you know what size screws to use? I have always had 8's & 10's....
In reply to How do you know what size by mamajama24-7
claydowling
Fri, 04/01/2011 - 13:06
It's subjective
I tend to base it mostly on the length that I need. Use a heavier screw if you need more strength, a smaller screw if you want it to show less.
Tsu Dho Nimh
Thu, 03/31/2011 - 17:50
Buy bulk packs of the grades
Buy bulk packs of the grades of sandpaper you use the most (I have 80, 100 and 150 grit), and cut them to fit your sanders. It's way cheaper.
Same with steel wool: a big pack of 0000 and one of the coarse stuff.
Towels - a big pack of white staining rags (cotton knit) you will use and toss, nd one of shop towels you will wash.
Finishing materials: a gallon of mineral spirits.
Paint rollers: a "contractor pack" of the covers. I use cheap brushes, bought in bulk, and toss them when they are trashed.
I have the advantage of having had a dad who NEVER threw away a screw or a nail, so I can find any odd sizes I need the coffee cans he stored them in. (junk piles, gotta love them).
Stop and think what kind of projects you will be making, what thickness wood you will be using, and buy suitable fasteners in bulk for that size wood.
derangedhermit
Tue, 05/03/2011 - 21:48
On sandpaper: You need
On sandpaper:
You need "medium" if you are removing wood or old finishes. Medium is 60 or 80 grit. There's also coarse and extra coarse, 30-50 grit, for removing wood even faster. I don't use it.
"Fine", 100-120 grit, is for sanding bare wood before finishing.
"Extra fine", 150-220 grit, is for sanding bare wood and between coats.
Beyond that, some people use 320 grit sandpaper, steel wool and other things. Now you are into "polishing".
I find keeping one of each type on hand convenient. You don't need multiple grits of one type. Now I have 60,120,and 220 on hand.
3M makes very good sandpaper that is widely available - and yes, there is a big difference. For one thing, it lasts much longer. That alone makes up for any difference in cost to me.
ArmySGT.
Sat, 05/28/2011 - 04:38
Sand Paper Here's what I know
Sand Paper
Here's what I know from Gunsmithing.
Each increasingly fine type of sandpaper is for removing the scratches from the one before it.
For wood, I use 4O grit to remove raised grain and rough spots. I keep using 40 grit until I am satisfied that I have a smooth surface. Then I switch to 80 to smooth out the bigger scratches left by the 40, then to 120, then 240.
It is important to keep with the rougher more aggressive sandpaper to remove more material faster. If you switch to finer grit to soon you will smooth the high spots and the low spots will stand out more. This causes you to back up and use the more aggressive coarser grit again.
The happy news is the more time spent with coarse paper, halves the time spent with finer.
After your first coat of varnish or paint you may wish to sand again for the very smooth finish Use 600 grit and sand by hand in one direction only. This can make for a very smooth paint or finish job.